Recent content by jeffjozwiak

Thanks for the info. Sounds good. Surprised the sales person didn't know about this. They made a big deal about routing for it.  So would the .750 or .718 work best for the G4? Nice bass by the way! Joz

Hi, Is it recommended that the neck pocket be sealed? Just got a G4 and I notice it's bare. If it needs a seal what would you recommend? The body is Swamp Ash with lam. Joz

Hi, I'm ordering a G4 bass and I thought I would use a Hipshot Style A bridge. I see in the Body Builder that the bridge selection does not include this bridge. Am I stuck with one of the others? Jeff

Hi, I have a raw Gecko-5 neck made from Bubinga (Ziricote fretboard). What's the best way to clean it? The back of the neck feels rough (I always wash my hands prior to playing). I tried rubbing it down with a dry cloth but it still seems somewhat coarse. Also, Is there anything I need to...

Is it possible to see the fret lifting out? Because I don't see any space between the bottom of the fret and the board. This is a new (or at least not used much) neck so I don't believe it's due to wear. If I bring it into a luthier can he just level the frets in question? I hate for them to...

I agree that I would rather have a pro do this. It SEEMS simple enough and being just 2 frets I would not imagine it being a huge task. That being said, does anyone know of a good luthier in the Illinois area? Joz

Hi, I'm getting some annoying buzzing between frets 13 and 16 (this is very obvious when tapping technique is used not much while fingering). I used a fret rocker and it appears that frets 12 and 16 are high. Is there anyway of spot leveling these? I don't want to spend $200 to have it done by...

I need clarification. Why can we have an unfinished neck and I hear nothing about the body as such? The neck will go through much more grime and wear from the hand sweat, weather and such. The body is relatively unexposed to that sort of abuse. I understand that you gain more from the neck not...

Hi, Does anyone have experience with using a water-based lacquer on possibly oily woods? I'm looking to use it on a walnut body and maybe in the future on wenge, bubinga, ebony, etc. Is this OK I'm concerned that it won't adhere. Any suggestions? Joz

I'm a little surprised. I was expecting outrage if I suggested finishing it. Here's a link from previous board members. It applies more to necks but I would think the neck would suffer from sweat/dirt/drying out even more so than a body. http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=9041.0 Joz

Hi, After seeing some samples of striped macassar ebony, I'm hell bent on building a custom bass with this as it's top/back. I would like to keep the bass totally unfinished. Would this wood be a candidate? I'm also a little concerned that I would be doing an injustice by not bringing out the...

Hi, I need to rout my own pickup holes on a future body. My question is what HP do I require for hardwoods? Assume harder woods (bubinga, etc) This router might serve to rout edges and electronic cavities as well. Does anyone recommend a maker? Dewalt, Porter-Cable, etc. Thanks, joz

Which woods don't require a finish? Also, does this imply no treatment? Such as lemon oil. I'm concerned over sweat/soil from the hands. This won't damage the wood? What about bodies? Am I better off leaving these bare? Thanks, joz.

I have a bubinga neck on a Gecko-5 bass. My body is finished in clear gloss from Warmoth. Is there any finishing required for the neck? What would you recommend? What are the advantages or concerns in leaving it bare or treating it? thanks, joz

I'm installing 2 soapbar humbuckers in a Gecko-5. I noted on wiring diagrams for guitar humbuckers that the pickups are reversed in orientation from each other. That is, the neck PU has the slotted screws upwards and the bridge PU downwards. Is there a reason for this? Does it matter for a bass...