Recent content by ezas

I came across this thread somewhat by accident, but coincidentally I was thinking about this earlier today so decided to necro post. While I wouldn't word it the same way, or draw the same conclusions, I share in the above sentiment that the focus on of this board is too narrow and dominated by...

I have a 24" neck with a loaded 7/8ths strat pickguard. Everything I have for $300 shipped. The purple (close to crown royal purple with lots of pearl) poly body does not look bad and has never been buffed out. Neck/Body/loaded pick guard all 4 pickups, books, random guitar tools and parts...

Moving the wire for the 'other' pickup to the blend knob took care of the problem. Appreciate you steering me in the right direction (use any blender diagram)

It's 3 active tone pots, a volume knob and the blender. I can't make heads or tails out of it. So many things are jumper ed from one thing to another. The blender diagrams I find have a wire on both top and bottom center lugs and I only have one wire for a center lug. There are three white...

I am working on my first Bass (for a friend) and my first set of active PU's. I have searched high and low for a wiring diagram for this ESP B-4e bass. In the process of working on it, meaning pulling the wiring in and out of the cavity one wire broke off and another was hanging by a couple of...

In case anyone comes across this in a search. This page has many wiring diagrams for bypasses for two and 3 PU guitars. Single vol and tone to 4 pot guitars. Nice clear diagrams. http://www.1728.org/guitar4.htm

I like the 'Chris Kinman' recommended values of .0012uf cap in series with a 130k resistor. I have tried both parallel (like he shows in the video) and I like series better. But it's a matter of taste of course. All my 3 guitars get either a treble bleed or 50's wiring to minimize treble loss...

That chart told me what I needed to know. Thanks

I used to do my soldering with a 15W pencil for soldering wires and a 40 for the back of pots (which I will keep doing because of the wide chisel tip). But now I have an inexpensive soldering station. (the same one they sell on BYOC) But it's marked in Celsius. What is a good temperature for...

I should have looked at them more closely. Still a good deal since I didn't have any t-handle hex drivers. But they are not long enough to be any use for truss rods, at least on fender headstocks.

I like it. But I like master tone/volume and that's hard to find on 'almost' LP's. And lately I've been liking natural wood finishes and or transparent. I like the oddballs like this one. Kind of a Jr with a twist, and has the transparent finish.

Home depot has 10 piece set of t-handle hex wrenches with both SAE and Metric for $10. It's husky brand, not some generic brand like HD sometimes sells.

It will end up in the showcase, so not much reason not to make things right for you.

Thanks Cagey. By 'kick' I mean the opposite of fall-away on the upper frets. Since my post ive seen it referred to as 'rising tongue'. I have been slowly straightening the neck. It was having trouble getting it straight with the 11-52 set. (I normally play 11-48's but have not had those on this...

It occurs to me that I might have put significantly heavier strings on it and that explains the relief I'm still trying to pull out. Could that have affected the neck angle? Would 'extra' relief make the neck seemed 'kicked' at the body end?