setup help - project guitar

[ezas]

Awhile back I got a good deal on a Squier Jagmaster. It sat around for a few months and it finally came up to the top of the todo. It was a junk drawer guitar. But I didn't care because I knew it was getting a make over. Now I have a problem with the setup and could use some advice. I bought a GFS import tremolo to replace the POS on it. I also got some cast saddles for it. After installing the new Trem I went to do the setup.  I had to put the saddles way up in the air to get the guitar even playable and I'm out of adjustment with the 8mm set screws. I mean some of them must be in just a thread or two. I know I can get longer ones so thats not the problem.

But when I got it, it played OK, or at least I don't recall the action being stupid low with the saddles set much lower. I did have the neck off but did not find a shim or anything. I blew a little dust out of the pocket, but if anything the dust would have lowered the height at the bridge. Relief is a bit high, but I've been bringing it down. The only other thing of note was when I got it the intonation was set crazy. The bridge I installed has been intonated. Anyway take a look at the pictures and see what you think. Neck shim time? Something else that might have changed? Something else to check? The neck has been settling for two days now.

:icon_scratch:

 

[ezas]

It occurs to me that I might have put significantly heavier strings on it and that explains the relief I'm still trying to pull out. Could that have affected the neck angle? Would 'extra' relief make the neck seemed 'kicked' at the body end?

 

[Cagey]

I don't know what you mean by "kicked", but heavier strings should pull the headstock forward, putting more relief in the neck. That would translate to higher action, but you would typically lower the bridge and/or saddles to compensate, at least up to a degree. At some point, you'd end up with upper fret buzz when fretting lower.

Your neck would appear to be pulled back at the headstock, indicating a bow to the neck, or something at the very end of the neck pocket nearest the body (like a shim or other obstruction) forcing a rearward tilt. That would force you to raise the bridge and/or saddles to compensate.

Just to be sure - you do know that you tighten (turn clockwise) the truss rod to bow the neck, and loosen (turn counterclockwise) it to relieve it, right? Also, that bow is where it's high in the middle and low at each end (convex), while relieved is low in the middle and high at each end (concave)?

 

[ezas]

Thanks Cagey. By 'kick' I mean the opposite of fall-away on the upper frets. Since my post ive seen it referred to as 'rising tongue'.

I have been slowly straightening the neck. It was having trouble getting it straight with the 11-52 set. (I normally play 11-48's but have not had those on this guitar yet) So I slackened that 52 and have let it set for a couple of days.

I just checked and tuned to pitch with the same 11-52's I have relief of about the thickness of a credit card, maybe thick business card.

The practical issue (as opposed to root issue) is that the set screws (10mm long) on the saddles are maxed out and the action is only what I would consider low. And even one full turn lower of the set screw on the 6th string and it starts buzzing unless I play very lightly.

I'd say, well Ok shim the neck but it didn't do this with the original trem and saddles that were installed when I got this guitar.

That's why I'm kinda trying to figure this out. Maybe its a noodley neck? I had it sitting unstrung for a few months. One thing I noticed is that wood on the heal of the neck was puckered like it had been pulled into the holes on the body. I've been considering sanding those off so the heal is flat again.

I've got a copy of How to Make Your Guitar Play Great on  order.