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UPDATEs NECK Vintage Finish "EXPERIMENTAL" work in progress

Ardie

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Vintage Finish "EXPERIMENTAL" work in progress DO NOT follow this process unless proven...cheers!

:hello2: Im back experimenting how to get that Vintage look on my Warmoth Vintage neck Strat by staining . This topic is in line with the work in progress of my Strat project.
Again my objectives on this project is to get that vintage classy look on my Strat guitar. Since i dont have the budget to get the body and neck finish by Warmoth i decide to giv it a shot and do it myself. This is my 1st time doing this guitar assembly and finishing, im hoping this will be helpful.
STAIN then FINISH by  Tung Oil.

Neck Details:
1. Strat modern Neck by Warmoth "nearly quarter sawn"
2  Maple/Rosewood
3. LSR nut slot DIY also by me
4. Compound Radius, Std thin contour back (' I should have choose Fat Back Profile)

How to get that Vintage look on the RAW Wood?
1. Prep the wood by sanding it along the grain.. I used Scoth brite
2. I always have this idea to use a Oil color pigment for staining the Neck " and Its works perfectly" weeeeee!
3. I used "Indian Yellow" to get that burnt Yellowish effect on the finish
4. Gradually apply the paste at the back of the neck.
7. I started to the peg head, skip the middle part, then apply rub on the heel area.
8. By skipping the middle portion im creating a more burnt rich color stain from the peg head to the Heel
9. Then rub a little bit of paste at the middle area to get that age look.
10, take a cloth  and Rub the surface gently to clean up the excess oil paste.
Check out the photo below cheers!  :headbang1:


 
Vintage Finish "EXPERIMENTAL" work in progress DO NOT follow this process unless proven...cheers!

:blob7: On this Photo are the comparison between the Satin Finish VS Staining to get Vintage Finish :hello2:
Check out the image below...comments are welcome  :occasion14:

 
Vintage Finish "EXPERIMENTAL" work in progress DO NOT follow this process unless proven...cheers!

:hello2: How to get that burnt yellow aged looks  :hello2:
1. Rub a brown color stain to the area were we seldom play, normally at the heel, edges, at the sides and edges of Peghead
2. Do some creativity and Rub the Brown stain in Gradient effect, I find easier by rubbing it by ur finger

Check out the photo below.. it turn out cool warm looking Vintage burnt color"  :occasion14:
Next Tung Oil Finishing and Fretboard finishing.. Hope this helps  :headbang1:
 
OK, I am confused here

What does Nearly quartersawn mean?

does it mean they did not finish quarter sawing it?
 
Jusatele said:
OK, I am confused here

What does Nearly quartersawn mean?

does it mean they did not finish quarter sawing it?

No, it means "riftsawn", but that term is rarely heard and would raise more questions than it would answer.

quartersawn01.jpg
 
Wow! It looks like you're doing a beautiful job!
Your colors are really nice!
I'm just a bit concerned about the oil pigments drying.
If I remember the little bit of art classes I had, oil paints take forever to dry.
I think you have to wait months before you can varnish an oil on canvas. I doubt if it would be quicker on maple.
I'll be very interested in what happens when you put your finish over the color,seems like it would just tend to smear. Bummer.
Maybe a sprayed coat of Deft satin? But if it's not dry underneath won't it just crack as it dries?
Keep the updates coming. I'm interested to see how it works out.

 
Hi Hbom im also worried about the curing time of this oil pigments. I check out this morning the oil is totally dries. I even wipe it with cotton cloth.
Some brownish color transfer to the cloth, that is due to the Brownish stain i have put, but no traces of that yellow pigment that i have rub on.
Please take note the amount of the yellow oil color that I rub on is very small in quantity, you dont need that much to stain the wood.

But again the main concern here is when i apply the tung oil will it have a chemical reaction on the oil color but I think as long the Oil dries up there will no issue and I can put in any Top coat for finishing.. cheers!
 
Ardie, its sounds like you are not too sure of what you are doing here. I wouldn't be posting this up as a tutorial. I would hate for someone to try putting oil paint and then tung oil on their neck and then have big issues. As you mentioned n your last post, you haven't really tried this yourself yet  :icon_scratch:
 
:blob7: Hi Nexrex as I said I have check out this morning the oil paint is totally dried. pls bear in mind i just rub on a very small quantity of paste.
I will keep you update tomorrow i plan to Rub on Tung Oil or Spray a clear gloss finish.
 
I'm kinda thinking that if it was as easy as you're making it out to be, StewMac & Luthiers Merc. wouldn't spend so much money developing dyes & stains to do that job.
But I'm sure interested to see if it works.
 
OK, so I knew what quarter sawn was and why, but if Near Quarter sawn is actually rift sawing, which looks like flat sawn, what benefit does rift sawn have?
 
No problem  :laughing7: , i would then suggest that you warn people in your original post that you haven't tried this yet, and that it is an experiment. As mentioned I would hate for someone to ruin a perfectly good neck.
 
OK NEXREX I will take note ur concern i will edit my post..

Hey Guys I have some question does TUNG oil finish is consider a hard finish. Why i ask is since coz i dont have the equipment and the skills to spray on clear gloss finish.
The easiest finish i can do is to apply several coats of Tung Oil by rubbing on it. Sanding between coats then buff wax to finish..
I made some research also about TUNG oil, They use this oil as finishing varnish on Oil Painting canvas, that's why i use the Oil color to stain on the wood and finish it with Tung oil. cheers!
 
Jusatele said:
OK, so I knew what quarter sawn was and why, but if Near Quarter sawn is actually rift sawing, which looks like flat sawn, what benefit does rift sawn have?

Keeps from wasting lumber, and probably allows for some dimensions that wouldn't be available otherwise. Better yeild, in other words. Quartersawn is more desirable for some things, like necks, so to be able to say something is nearly quartersawn is kinda like saying choice grade beef is nearly prime. Depending on what you're doing, it may not make any difference at all. I'm certainly no expert, but I'd expect the stuff to want to twist, but I'm sure if it had that tendency Warmoth wouldn't use it because it would end up costing them more in warranty resolution than just using the premium cuts in the first place.
 
Ardie said:
Hey Guys I have some question does TUNG oil finish is consider a hard finish. Why i ask is since coz i dont have the equipment and the skills to spray on clear gloss finish.
Tung Oil is not a hard finish.  IIRC The only "oil" that qualifies as a hard finish is Tru-Oil.
 
AutoBat said:
Ardie said:
Hey Guys I have some question does TUNG oil finish is consider a hard finish. Why i ask is since coz i dont have the equipment and the skills to spray on clear gloss finish.
Tung Oil is not a hard finish.  IIRC The only "oil" that qualifies as a hard finish is Tru-Oil.

Thanks autobat i will look for this oil instead  :occasion14:
 
:blob7: NECK Vintage Finish "EXPERIMENTAL" work in progress  LATEST UPDATE  :hello2:

Concern matters and Updates:
1. Does the maple neck will absorb the oil color.
2. Do i need  a month to cure this Oil color..
3. Does the Oil color will have a chemical reaction during the application of Tung oil.

Results:
1. Will the Maple neck absorb the Oil color after a day of application
- Wipe the neck with white cotton cloths thoroughly, result some excess residue visible on the cloth, After thorough wiping and cleaning with cloth gradually the yellow pigment not anymore present on the cloth. But then again excess residue is common in staining specially with oil stain during cleaning preparation.
-  After wiping,....The neck still retain the yellowish color on the wood it only mean 1 thing the wood absorb the oil color.
- I think it will be better wait 2 to 3 days to make sure that the Oil color were fully absorb by the wood.
I conclude the more Pigment you Rub and longer days of curing time the richer the color is.
At this stage as long the yellowish stain still remain on the wood after thorough cleaning Im confident the wood absorb the pigment..
Attached are some photo after wiping  with cotton cloth :occasion14: I hope this will answer some of the issue :headbang1:..
:blob7: Happy with the results....Next Tung Oil application
 
Does the Oil color will have a chemical reaction during the application of Tung oil/Tru oil
At this stage wanted to make sure whether the wood will absorb the Tung Oil? During application does the Tung oil will disolve the oil color?
Take note: In my research on TUNG oil artist also used Tung oil as Varnish to their oil painting canvas that's why Im confident it will be compatible with the Oil color.

1st COAT of TUNG Oil results:
1. apply a thin Layer of TUNG oil, about 10 times.
- Wood absorb the Tung Oil.
- it was a smooth application and easy to handle.
- there are no reaction on the Oil color stain, it doesn't dissolve the stain, stain still intact.. weeeeee! :headbang1:
2. hang it to Air dry for about 2 hrs again..... I apply another coat of TUNG OIL.....then PHOTO SHOOT weeee!

At this stage i have no worries...im happy with results of the TUNG oil and its spread evenly... i will just wait for 1 day curing then sand it with 1000 grit again apply moooooorrrrreeeeee Tung Oil
check out the photo cheers!

UPDATE: I check out the finish of TUNG OIL on MAPLE before goin to work.. The finish is just fine it's almost dry i can even touch it, by the time i reach home after work... im sure it will be completely dry... Sand it apply more coats.. WOULD I RECOMMEND this procedures well its UP to you to decide U can try it by urself and do it on any SCRAP wood if you don't agree with me... But it's work fine with me you can see the difference from the other Neck which is Satin finish.......cheers!
 
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