Tips to get a Joe Perry Boneyard look?

WilliamAgain

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I have a Warmoth LP coming my way in the near future and I plan to paint and finish it myself. My previous experience with paint/finish has always been with solid colors, but this time I am thinking of going the dye route. I am interested in getting a finish similar to what is found on a Joe Perry Boneyard LP and am wondering if anyone has any tips on how to accomplish such a thing. My body is limba with a flame maple top. I was figuring on using a black/brown dye on the top, letting that dry, sanding it down and then going over it in a trans-amber dye? Or maybe, in an effort to get a more subtle Boneyard look, using a highly concentrated amber mix (or maybe even an orange of some kind) for the first coat, sanding that down and then adding trans-amber on top...Any tips would be appreciated.

He are some examples of the Boneyard LP:

https://www.google.com/search?q=joe+perry+boneyard+les+paul&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=Om-NU8CYFYSayATEsYDYBA&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1920&bih=955#imgdii=_

 
I think the approach would be the first one you mentioned. Possibly with a hint of green in it. The finish is called green tiger, although I've never seen one up close so that's a guess.

The hint of green added to the darker colour that would be sanded back after drying and prior to the amber.

I suggest try to get a hold of some scrap wood to practice on first.
 
That's what did, tobacco brown sand back with amber dye.  It is the guitar in my sig.  This finish is going to be highly dependent on the flame maple cap you get

DSC00465.jpg
 
stratamania said:
The hint of green added to the darker colour that would be sanded back after drying and prior to the amber.

When you say added do you mean that the process would be a) mixing both dyes before applying to the wood, or b) doing one coat of one dye and then adding another?
 
WilliamAgain said:
stratamania said:
The hint of green added to the darker colour that would be sanded back after drying and prior to the amber.

When you say added do you mean that the process would be a) mixing both dyes before applying to the wood, or b) doing one coat of one dye and then adding another?

To be certain...the running order give or take some sanding etc.

1. The darker green mixed into the darker colour to taste.
2. Apply this colour stain
3. let it dry
4. sand it back
5. Then apply the amber dye to taste.
6. let it dry.
7. clear coats etc.

Remember this is how I think it may be done, but do test it out on something that doesn't matter first.
 
I was doing some more searching regarding tips on how to get this type of finish. Someone on youtube post a vid of them attempting the Boneyard/Aged Tiger finish and they stated that the best way to do it is to do black dye for the flame, but then use a tinted lacquer for the yellow/amber. I also found a forum post where someone attempted to do a similar finish using dyes only and the end result was a bit muddy looking IMO. The Boneyards appear to be dyed and less like they are tinted due to the uniformity of the flame in the light...so I am at a bit of a loss as how to proceed, dye or lacquer...

Here is the Youtube vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GW3cXuYDL0M

Here is the forum post featuring the dye job:

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=905932

What I hope to get is a cleaner and slightly deeper aged tiger look, one that is more common on the Epiphone Boneyards than the Gibson variants, which appear dirtier. I understand that the end results are going to be highly dependent on the flame (and the lighting). Some examples:

http://www.chordism.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Epiphone-Boneyard-Joe-Perry-Les-Paul-Standard-Aged-Tiger-electric-guitar.jpg

http://es.audiofanzine.com/guitarra-de-forma-les-paul/epiphone/les-paul-series-joe-perry-boneyard-lp-aged-tiger/multimedia/imagenes/a.play,m.608676.html

http://www.sheltonsguitars.com/2013/08-15-2013/epiphone-boneyard.html

So here are my questions:

1. Would a tinted lacquer be better vs a dye to achieve similar results? Again, I am hoping to avoid getting a muddy complexion which I fear is inevitable with using dyes, however Dmraco seems to have had no issues with his guitar using dyes only but he used amber over brown.

2. If using a tinted lacquer how would one protect the binding from becoming tinted to hell and back. Obviously taping would help, but getting the curves and coverage just right would be impossible.

3. If using a lacquer what is the best method? I have read that using a clear coat first and then using the tint, followed by the final clear coats is best if you want the flame to pop.

4. Would doing a mix of amber dye along with a coat of tinted lacquer be feasible? I imagine that the dye would ensure uniformity of the flame/striping, and the lacquer would be better at not getting a wholly muddy finish.

Any info is appreciated.
 
The only way you will know and have confidence in your chosen method is to get some scrap wood and try the different possibilities.

I would try the dye method personally first.

Binding may have to be scraped even if you mask it.

http://youtu.be/TNbsZsSabPs


Clear lacquer before a tinted one may add more depth. In the video you linked to he applied clear sanding sealer before the tinted lacquer.
 
WilliamAgain said:
1. Would a tinted lacquer be better vs a dye to achieve similar results? Again, I am hoping to avoid getting a muddy complexion which I fear is inevitable with using dyes, however Dmraco seems to have had no issues with his guitar using dyes only but he used amber over brown.

I would do the dye thing. Gets it into the wood, and will present less problems later

WilliamAgain said:
2. If using a tinted lacquer how would one protect the binding from becoming tinted to hell and back. Obviously taping would help, but getting the curves and coverage just right would be impossible.

I would tape it off. It's not impossible; in fact, it's fairly easy. You just need the right tape, which you won't find very easily outside of dedicated finishing suppliers. 3M makes some stuff they call a "218" series tape. It creates a fine line, it's very flexible, it's impervious to solvents and highly resistant to heat. You can make some pretty sharp corners/curves with it and it won't wrinkle up. It ain't cheap, but it works like a charm and you don't use much of it. Here's one source, but you may want to shop around.

Regardless, you're going to have to scrape the finish to some degree to get your edges right. You can see how I did it here. You'll need to build a little tool, but it's easy. You can see how to do it just looking at it.

Once the edges are good, you can start with the clear coats and sanding flush until you're happy.

WilliamAgain said:
3. If using a lacquer what is the best method? I have read that using a clear coat first and then using the tint, followed by the final clear coats is best if you want the flame to pop.

You can layer things if you'd like. I'm not sure the results are worth the work, but it probably depends on how you go about it. What you really want is a lotta clear so you have room to scrape/sand/refinish without impacting the dye/artistic part. It's a matter of depth, and with lacquer, your coats are thin.
 
I just noticed in point 2 above

2. Apply this colour stain

It should read

2. Apply this colour dye.

OP.  Sorry if that confused you.
 
This is a hand-rubbed burst using General Finishes water-borne dyes.  The center, in my view, approximates the Perry Boneyard look.  I used their ebony dye straight out of the can, sanded back, and then straight-out-of-the-can amber before applying the burst using their medium brown and ebony at the edges.

Edit:  Showing photo inline now.
15216940156_ac9f2442bf_b.jpg



And another one:


15240942555_34a9e3b336_b.jpg





Turns out I was logged into flickr on my phone, where I took the pics, but not on the laptop, where I was posting from, so I couldn't get to the "All sizes" page to select the url for inline display.

 
Bagman67 said:
Yeah, yeah.  How much would you give me for the toddler in the Tigger costume?

$35. But, that's just because we're friends and I'd like to help you out. I need a toddler like I need an additional orifice in my cranium  :laughing7:
 
Meh.  I can do a lot better than that on the open market.  Thanks for the kind thoughts, though, brother.
 
I don't know, what with the thousands of miles of wide open border to our south. I'm thinking the toddler market is pretty soft. Buy 5, get one terrorist free! If you don't like your terrorist, you can trade him for a drug cartel member! But, if you like your terrorist, you can keep your terrorist! You can't lose! Act now! Everyone's a winner! Bargains galore!  :laughing7:
 
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