Specs for my build

[Orange Tortex]

Sorry if this is the wrong sub forum, but here they are:

Body

• Solid-body Strat
• Right-handed
• Alder
• No laminate top/unique choice
• Rear-routed
• HH layout - wood mounted
• Tone 1, tone 2, 5-way switch routs
• Floyd with angled pocket - use inserts from bridge on order
• 3/4” side jack hole
• Strat shape/standard 4 bolt neck pocket
• No contoured heel
• No finish

Neck

• Slapshot headstock
• Modern construction
• Maple shaft/fretboard
• No unique choice
• 1-11/16” nut width
• Right-handed
• Wolfgang profile
• 10-16” compound radius
• 22 frets
• No scalloping
• No binding
• SS6150 (stainless steel/standard jumbo) fret wire
• Gotoh/Grover (13/32” 11/32”)
• Black face/side dots
• R3 Floyd prep shelf only
• Standard 4-bolt
• Clear satin nitro finish

I’m building it to be played fast, and I’m taking some inspiration from the Wolfgang I used to have on the neck. You think it’ll shred, boys?

 

[JohnnyHardtail]

For the ultimate neck stability I'd suggest getting roasted maple.  You can finish it in tru-oil or Tung oil, and it won't cost any more than a Nitro finish by Warmoth.

If you want a shredder neck, the extra-Jumbo SS6100 frets are the go! However I suppose that is a personal preference.  The SS6115 are a middle ground.

Otherwise for smaller fret size such as SS6150, I would choose a more curved fretboard radius.  Maybe consider the 9.5 to 14" compound, straight 10", or 12", so its more like a Fender neck in that case.

 

[Rick]

Wolfgang profile = excellent.

 

[stratamania]

The following is advise to prevent you falling into pitfalls we have seen new users fall into...

I would recommend you change the jack hole to 7/8". I think I saw some other threads where this was pointed out. It really will make things easier for you in terms of being able to fit jacks easily and a football plate covers the 7/8" without any issue.

Gotoh/Grover (13/32” 11/32”)  What tuners are you going to use? Virtually nothing including Grover fits those tuner holes...again you will be better off with a Schaller bore which most modern tuners actually fit.

R3 Floyd prep shelf only  ----  are you sure ?    My preference would be with the mounting holes, shelf only means you have to screw the nut on from the top. Hardly any Floyd equipped guitar uses that method nowadays.

Tone 1, tone 2, I guess is because you just want volume and tone, but I personally would order without holes and drill them myself to position them in more optimum locations.

I really strongly recommend that you review your specs and change them quickly if you have already ordered.

This sub forum is for what it says work in progress such as build threads. If it is just a discussion on specs it should be in general discussion.

 

[Orange Tortex]

The following is advise to prevent you falling into pitfalls we have seen new users fall into...

I would recommend you change the jack hole to 7/8". I think I saw some other threads where this was pointed out. It really will make things easier for you in terms of being able to fit jacks easily and a football plate covers the 7/8" without any issue.

Gotoh/Grover (13/32” 11/32”)  What tuners are you going to use? Virtually nothing including Grover fits those tuner holes...again you will be better off with a Schaller bore which most modern tuners actually fit.

R3 Floyd prep shelf only  ----  are you sure ?    My preference would be with the mounting holes, shelf only means you have to screw the nut on from the top. Hardly any Floyd equipped guitar uses that method nowadays.

Tone 1, tone 2, I guess is because you just want volume and tone, but I personally would order without holes and drill them myself to position them in more optimum locations.

I really strongly recommend that you review your specs and change them quickly if you have already ordered.

This sub forum is for what it says work in progress such as build threads. If it is just a discussion on specs it should be in general discussion.

I haven’t ordered the body yet.

But yeah, everyone is saying 7/8” is better but I’m also seeing mixed things around the internet about it requiring a cup of some sort, or that it doesn’t fit a Strat, etc. I can’t find any solid pros or cons about it though, so why is it better exactly? Is it just easier to fit jacks into?

The tuners I’m planning on using are the Schaller-style Gotohs. Someone linked me to them in another one of my threads. Though I could use actual Schallers as long as they aren’t locking.

I’ve been told that mounting holes on the nut makes that part of the neck weak, and potentially easier to break.

I want a volume in tone 1’s position, and a tone in tone 2’s position. Drilling the holes myself is much riskier and I’m not too terribly picky about where the knobs go, as long as they aren’t too close to the strings. I will keep that in mind, though. Is it difficult to drill holes for them?

Is there any way to move this thread to another forum if it’s in the wrong place?

 

[stratamania]

The following is advise to prevent you falling into pitfalls we have seen new users fall into...

I would recommend you change the jack hole to 7/8". I think I saw some other threads where this was pointed out. It really will make things easier for you in terms of being able to fit jacks easily and a football plate covers the 7/8" without any issue.

Gotoh/Grover (13/32” 11/32”)  What tuners are you going to use? Virtually nothing including Grover fits those tuner holes...again you will be better off with a Schaller bore which most modern tuners actually fit.

R3 Floyd prep shelf only  ----  are you sure ?    My preference would be with the mounting holes, shelf only means you have to screw the nut on from the top. Hardly any Floyd equipped guitar uses that method nowadays.

Tone 1, tone 2, I guess is because you just want volume and tone, but I personally would order without holes and drill them myself to position them in more optimum locations.

I really strongly recommend that you review your specs and change them quickly if you have already ordered.

This sub forum is for what it says work in progress such as build threads. If it is just a discussion on specs it should be in general discussion.

I haven’t ordered the body yet.

But yeah, everyone is saying 7/8” is better but I’m also seeing mixed things around the internet about it requiring a cup of some sort, or that it doesn’t fit a Strat, etc. I can’t find any solid pros or cons about it though, so why is it better exactly? Is it just easier to fit jacks into?

The tuners I’m planning on using are the Schaller-style Gotohs. Someone linked me to them in another one of my threads. Though I could use actual Schallers as long as they aren’t locking.

I’ve been told that mounting holes on the nut makes that part of the neck weak, and potentially easier to break.

I want a volume in tone 1’s position, and a tone in tone 2’s position. Drilling the holes myself is much riskier and I’m not too terribly picky about where the knobs go, as long as they aren’t too close to the strings. I will keep that in mind, though. Is it difficult to drill holes for them?

Is there any way to move this thread to another forum if it’s in the wrong place?

7/8" gives you more room for jacks. A number of users have had issues using 3/4" size and getting their jack to fit. Why give yourself the headache. Whatever you have read elsewhere is incorrect it will work with a football plate. It can also work with a Tele style cup but it does not have to.

Schallers and Hipshots and others are available in non locking. But that two step Grover bore has caught a few people out. You really need to check specs rather than just rely on names.

I have Floyds nuts with mounting holes going back to the late 80s and I have never experienced a problem with them.

How difficult are holes to drill - fairly straightforward but it depends on your experience with tools and working with them so I cannot give you an accurate answer as I don't know your skills. Just using a tone and tone position to me does not look or feel right.

To move the thread a mod would probably have to do it.

 

[Orange Tortex]

The following is advise to prevent you falling into pitfalls we have seen new users fall into...

I would recommend you change the jack hole to 7/8". I think I saw some other threads where this was pointed out. It really will make things easier for you in terms of being able to fit jacks easily and a football plate covers the 7/8" without any issue.

Gotoh/Grover (13/32” 11/32”)  What tuners are you going to use? Virtually nothing including Grover fits those tuner holes...again you will be better off with a Schaller bore which most modern tuners actually fit.

R3 Floyd prep shelf only  ----  are you sure ?    My preference would be with the mounting holes, shelf only means you have to screw the nut on from the top. Hardly any Floyd equipped guitar uses that method nowadays.

Tone 1, tone 2, I guess is because you just want volume and tone, but I personally would order without holes and drill them myself to position them in more optimum locations.

I really strongly recommend that you review your specs and change them quickly if you have already ordered.

This sub forum is for what it says work in progress such as build threads. If it is just a discussion on specs it should be in general discussion.

I haven’t ordered the body yet.

But yeah, everyone is saying 7/8” is better but I’m also seeing mixed things around the internet about it requiring a cup of some sort, or that it doesn’t fit a Strat, etc. I can’t find any solid pros or cons about it though, so why is it better exactly? Is it just easier to fit jacks into?

The tuners I’m planning on using are the Schaller-style Gotohs. Someone linked me to them in another one of my threads. Though I could use actual Schallers as long as they aren’t locking.

I’ve been told that mounting holes on the nut makes that part of the neck weak, and potentially easier to break.

I want a volume in tone 1’s position, and a tone in tone 2’s position. Drilling the holes myself is much riskier and I’m not too terribly picky about where the knobs go, as long as they aren’t too close to the strings. I will keep that in mind, though. Is it difficult to drill holes for them?

Is there any way to move this thread to another forum if it’s in the wrong place?

7/8" gives you more room for jacks. A number of users have had issues using 3/4" size and getting their jack to fit. Why give yourself the headache. Whatever you have read elsewhere is incorrect it will work with a football plate. It can also work with a Tele style cup but it does not have to.

Schallers and Hipshots and others are available in non locking. But that two step Grover bore has caught a few people out. You really need to check specs rather than just rely on names.

I have Floyds nuts with mounting holes going back to the late 80s and I have never experienced a problem with them.

How difficult are holes to drill - fairly straightforward but it depends on your experience with tools and working with them so I cannot give you an accurate answer as I don't know your skills. Just using a tone and tone position to me does not look or feel right.

To move the thread a mod would probably have to do it.

Would it also work with a square plate? Maybe if you were to form it to the body? Football jack should be okay, as long as I can use my angled cable.

I’m aware of the unique hole for Gotoh, and I check specs, don’t wanna mess anything up. Would the straight bore of a Schaller be easier to install?

Do mounting holes make the whole nut installation easier?

As far as drilling and other mods go, I can always take it to the local music store and see what they have to say.

 

[TBurst Std]

Regarding jack hole, forget about what you read elsewhere.  7/8 is what you want. No you do NOT have to use electro socket. None of mine do.

More people than not you have commented on the 3/4 hole note it is finicky about having enough room for the wires and the legs to spread when a jack is inserted.  Consider yourself warned numerous times to change this to 7/8.

Keep in mind a good portion of the audience here have built multitudes of guitars and basses.  Other forums, your lucky if you come across someone that may know enough to correctly even work on a guitar.

 

[stratamania]

It will work with some square plates but often they may be dimensionally too big. A football plate will work with an angled or straight plug cable.

 

[TBurst Std]

Yes, use the football plate. It will look nicer with the round overs on a strat.

Look at Suhr guitars to get a feel.

 

[elstoof]

Bolts through the neck for the nut will be stronger in every way than screwing from the top, wood screws will eventually eat away at the wood when they get wiggled a lot. When you put a bolt through it clamps the material from either side becoming part of the structure, so it’s then at least as strong as before.

 

[elstoof]

Rugby/football plate on a 7/8” hole with a right angled jack. This plate is recessed so the socket doesn’t stick out as much