Something Wicked This Way Comes
- Thread starter Kuro Uma
- Start date
arty07:FernandoEsteves said:
I'm waiting on the body to come in right now. I ordered a flamed maple carved top soloist with 720 mod about 3 weeks ago so I'm sure I'm still a few weeks out on that.
I have everything else I need for build sitting here now.
Here's the rundown:
Bare Knuckle Painkillers calibrated set (reversed magnet on the neck pickup)
BKP Custom Audio Taper 550K CTS ¾" long shaft pots
Jensen BKP 0.022μfd capacitor
5-way Megaswitch P-model
Graphtech LB63 Floyd Rose Bridge with piezos
Graphtech Advanced Acousti-phonic preamp kit
Black EVH D-Tuna
Goldo BackBox for the floyd
Black stainless steel bolt on kit from Oynx Forge with the black neck bolt ferrules
Black metal dome knobs and black electrosocket jack plate.
Grover Rotomatics 18:1
I even have the stencils to mask the body design off for both the clear coat and the mask for when I dye it made from vinyl.
This is one of the vinyl masks I made to do the clear coat to stop the dye line from being jagged or seeping under the other mask.
This the vinyl mask i'll use after doing the clear so I can dye and retain the graphic with the undyed wood.
These don't have the transfer paper on them yet.
I feel prepared. But i know a million things are going to pop up on me.
ubershallman said:
I have a blue dye in aerosol can i got from re-ranch. my black dye is a water based dye in powdered form. I practiced the method i plan to do on a few pieces of scrap maple. masking off where i want the design, sealing it, then masking that off and wiping on the water based dye. It seems to come out very defined. I do have my concerns with such an intricate design though.
I thought about spraying the black dye. But I'm not sure which way would be best. I picture just creating my normal black dye mixture. dumping that into an airbrush and going at it lightly. But after the wipe on method came out with a defined edge I stopped there.
If I could locate a black dye I could spray on I'd go with that. Preferably in an aerosol as I don't have a lot of access to spraying equipment.
Got my UPS Quantum View last night, :icon_biggrin:
So needless to say I am happy. Body should be in on Monday hopefully
Specs are:
Carved top Soloist Alder/Flamed Maple
2 humbuckers wood mount routed
24 fret reposition
Recessed Original Floyd rout
single battery box rout
contoured heel and 720 mod
As per Bagman's suggestion I did get a preval sprayer and have been practicing on scraps.
I will post pics when it arrives
So needless to say I am happy. Body should be in on Monday hopefully
Specs are:
Carved top Soloist Alder/Flamed Maple
2 humbuckers wood mount routed
24 fret reposition
Recessed Original Floyd rout
single battery box rout
contoured heel and 720 mod
As per Bagman's suggestion I did get a preval sprayer and have been practicing on scraps.
I will post pics when it arrives
Corey P.
Hero Member
- Messages
- 502
I think carrying the masked binding into the body of the guitar as a relief design is about the most genius thing I've seen on a site filled with genius things - really looking forward to the results!
How did you hone your taping skills, are you a pinstriper in another life?
(Awesome news re: the tracking!)
I do know that the masked "natural" binding guys often have to do a little cleanup work with an X-acto knife to remove any under-tape runs. You're not going to be able to really rub the dye into it, so I guess you want to start with a fairly concentrated dye mix. That, or make sure it's really dry between spraying. You'll also want to prep the maple as much as possible beforehand by wetting it, letting it dry, sanding off the little raised hairs, do it again, do it again.... You'll be able to fine-sand it after the dye's dry and the mask is off, but if the texture of the dyed surface is a whole lot different than the masked areas, the following finish coats will react to that. Most modern finishes are fairly forgiving, though.
I'm masking off the body leaving the area that will NOT be dyed exposed.
I'm then sealing it with a clear, then masking off the opposite (masking what I cleared)
The masks I made on a vinyl cutter so they are exactly the same as one another. Just one masks the dyed wood and the other the natural wood.
I'll then be using a preval sprayer with my dye mixed on the strong side to spray on the dye
I've also left a margin of error in the design so that if I need to go back with black paint and a fine tipped brush and outline/define the design by hand i can.
I also plan a hand-painted design on the backside for my wife.
I've done this procedure on some scrap flamed maple pieces and it came out nice.
as with anything, I'll definitely be taking my time on every step.
I'm then sealing it with a clear, then masking off the opposite (masking what I cleared)
The masks I made on a vinyl cutter so they are exactly the same as one another. Just one masks the dyed wood and the other the natural wood.
I'll then be using a preval sprayer with my dye mixed on the strong side to spray on the dye
I've also left a margin of error in the design so that if I need to go back with black paint and a fine tipped brush and outline/define the design by hand i can.
I also plan a hand-painted design on the backside for my wife.
I've done this procedure on some scrap flamed maple pieces and it came out nice.
as with anything, I'll definitely be taking my time on every step.
Body got here today. And once again i'm completely impressed with Warmoth's craftmanship.
Matched up with the neck so far
I made some modifications to the heel and to the neck.
No bolt holes drilled yet. I plan on using a direct bolt system with recessed bolt ferrules. I may do a bit more sculpting on the heel contour once the neck ferrule recesses are cut.
Edit: I forgot to mention I also modified the lower horn to be sculpted more like the top horn.
Matched up with the neck so far
I made some modifications to the heel and to the neck.
No bolt holes drilled yet. I plan on using a direct bolt system with recessed bolt ferrules. I may do a bit more sculpting on the heel contour once the neck ferrule recesses are cut.
Edit: I forgot to mention I also modified the lower horn to be sculpted more like the top horn.
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 15,478
+1, that's awesome work...Although it makes me sad.... :sad1:Bagman67 said:
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
- Messages
- 15,478
Cool deal, yes I can do gold, or brass, which will actually be better than the gold. Unless you want the contrast between the gold and the raw steel under the plating..Kuro Uma said:
