Soloist first guitar build questions.

[Cagey]

I'm not sure that camera was as accurate at color rendering as one might hope, although that was a condo and we had a service that worked pretty diligently at keeping things nice. Plus, that may have been not long after a a rain. Still, you're right - it almost looks unnatural.

 

[Rick]

I like the last one.  From the outside you can't tell, and the switching is intuitive.

 

[stratamania]

I used the Warmoth fat humbucker rout in the pickguard for my Strat. That rout is just a skosh snug in width but you can file that out slightly and it works great. That is true for both the Wilde and USA pickups.

That ought to do it. Its easier to take some material away than put it back...

 

[rgand]

I used the Warmoth fat humbucker rout in the pickguard for my Strat. That rout is just a skosh snug in width but you can file that out slightly and it works great. That is true for both the Wilde and USA pickups.

That ought to do it. Its easier to take some material away than put it back...

:icon_thumright:

 

[dcbrown73]

Hey all.

I ordered the reamer and counter sink from StewMac and finally got them and was able to install the tuners. Everything when perfect.  Extremely happy with the outcome.

So I've started to move forward and started looking at the body and installing the electronics.  I've noticed a few things.

• The CLR 3-way switch I purchased sticks up higher than the backplate that covers the electronics cavity.  Even if I can get it low enough to put the cover on the electronics cavity.  The soldered wires might come in contact with the copper tape on the back of the cover thereby grounding the connected wires.
• The screws for the switch are wider than the holes Warmoth drilled.  I'm guessing I have to drill these out a bit for them to fit.  Using the counter sink I bought to ensure I don't do too much damage around the finish?
• The pots I bought stick through the holes for them, but the threads do not come out of the hole.  I could put the knobs on, but the knob would be what would hold the pot where it is since I cannot screw the nuts / washers on since the threads are down in the hole.
• Should I get some thin felt tape or something to put at the bottom of the knobs to help protect the finish?  Or is there a better idea / solution?
• Any other advise or gotchas I need to keep an eye out for

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Cagey]

Rear routed bodies have slightly thicker tops where the controls mount, as opposed to mounting them on a pickguard which is usually no more than .090" thick. So, sometimes some adjustments need to be made.

For blade switches, I don't recall having to do things, but I believe Schaller makes a switch that's not quite as deep. Still, screw spacing should be the same. You may want to call Warmoth and ask if the switch they sell is different from the typical Strat part.

For pots, you may need long shaft parts, as opposed to the standard. Note for future reference: always buy the long shaft pots. You can adjust them to fit in just about anything by putting jam nuts on to set the depth.

As for felt or something to protect the finish from rubbing knobs - no. Get the right pots. Otherwise, they'll just be too tight to rotate effectively.