Soloist first guitar build questions.

[Hendrix]

None of my 4 Warmoth's are loose like that. In fact, all of mine take noticeable pressure to seat, and once seated, they are locked in. Have you measured the neck and pocket? When the neck is in the pocket how significant are the gaps or overhang?

So, I just measured it. 

Body Cavity Width: 55.75mm
Neck Width: 56.18mm  (bottom that slides into it)

Now, the neck shows slightly wider (0.43mm) than the body cavity.  What did become more apparent is how short one side of the body cavity is compared to the other side.  Basically there isn't much holding the neck on one side.  The short side is about 18mm while the other side is 2.5x-2.75x larger.  Maybe this is why there is so much play?  Is this expected on a Soloist body?  I'm not sure.  (see image below)

this happens to all my warmth body , as I put body in dry cabinet for months even years before I got time to build it , wood shrink when dry .

 

[dcbrown73]

I ordered a Oak Grigsby 5-way switch from AllParts, but they were sold out and sent me a CRL 5-way switch instead.  Nice free upgrade.  I won't complain.

I just want to update this post.  I was wrong, the package from AllParts arrived last night, it wasn't the upgraded switch I thought they were sending me.  It was a cheap plastic $11.50 blade switch.  I paid $22.50 for a high quality switch and they sent me a cheap $11.50 plastic blade switch because the one I ordered was out of stock.  They didn't even refund (or even offer to) the difference!  They just basically stole $11 from me and thought I wouldn't notice!

To say I'm annoyed would be putting it lightly.  I've responded to John Carroll (the AllParts rep that did this) asking for the switch I ordered or a refund.  I will update this post with the final outcome.  Hopefully John corrects this situation and doesn't do this to other AllParts customers.

Caveat emptor!

 

[dcbrown73]

I ordered a Oak Grigsby 5-way switch from AllParts, but they were sold out and sent me a CRL 5-way switch instead.  Nice free upgrade.  I won't complain.

I just want to update this post.  I was wrong, the package from AllParts arrived last night, it wasn't the upgraded switch I thought they were sending me.  It was a cheap plastic $11.50 blade switch.  I paid $22.50 for a high quality switch and they sent me a cheap $11.50 plastic blade switch because the one I ordered was out of stock.  They didn't even refund (or even offer to) the difference!  They just basically stole $11 from me and thought I wouldn't notice!

To say I'm annoyed would be putting it lightly.  I've responded to John Carroll (the AllParts rep that did this) asking for the switch I ordered or a refund.  I will update this post with the final outcome.  Hopefully John corrects this situation and doesn't do this to other AllParts customers.

Caveat emptor!

John emailed me this morning and apologized and said it was a mistake that the wrong part was picked and sent and has already sent the replacement.

Thank you John @ AllParts!
David

 

[rgand]

Sounds like an honest mistake. Glad to hear you got that straightened out.

 

[dcbrown73]

Hey all,

Is it common that the tuner holes on Warmoth necks are commonly drilled smaller that required / requested?  I had mine drilled for Schaller locking tuners (25/64th)  Yet, what I got was not only smaller than that.  It was even smaller than 3/8th.

I have several drill bits, but alas.  I don't have a 25/64 bit, so I've had to order one and hurry up and wait.

While the neck seems straight as a perfect board.  I should probably order a truss bar wrench too.  I suspect it won't be as straight once I put string tension on it.  I should just get that out of the way now before I actually need it and have to wait on it!

 

[Cagey]

Be very careful trying to open up tuner holes with a twist drill bit, or better yet, just don't do it. It's the wrong tool, especially at that diameter. It's unlikely to create a round hole, and could just split the headstock. What you want is a reamer. Unfortunately, they generally cost more than drill bit, so if you don't think you'll need a reamer much, if at all, you're better off finding someone who has one and asking for a favor or something. Buy him a beer. It'll be a quick operation, so even if there's money involved it won't be much.

Sometimes, if the hole isn't off by much, you can just open it up a tad with some sandpaper and a dowel or something. Also not the best way, but it's less risky than trying to open it up with a twist drill.

 

[PhilHill]

Be very careful trying to open up tuner holes with a twist drill bit, or better yet, just don't do it. It's the wrong tool, especially at that diameter. It's unlikely to create a round hole, and could just split the headstock. What you want is a reamer. Unfortunately, they generally cost more than drill bit, so if you don't think you'll need a reamer much, if at all, you're better off finding someone who has one and asking for a favor or something. Buy him a beer. It'll be a quick operation, so even if there's money involved it won't be much.

Sometimes, if the hole isn't off by much, you can just open it up a tad with some sandpaper and a dowel or something. Also not the best way, but it's less risky than trying to open it up with a twist drill.

Definitely a +1 on that.

 

[dcbrown73]

Ugh.  I had no idea what the real investment was when I started this build and I don't doubt for a second is just going to get worse.

Between the guitar parts and now the tools I keep having to buy.  I'm already $2,500 into this build and clearly I'm going to end up ordering more stuff as I'm not even remotely close to finishing.  I didn't intend to become a luthier or end up with a full blown luthier shop.  I just wanted to build my own guitar via Warmoth parts.  I figured the Warmoth parts would help me NOT buy all these luthier tools.  Clearly I was wrong.

My guitar / amp hobby still not as expensive as my astronomy / astrophotography hobby, but it's trying to get there!

While I'm here.  I have another question.

I've picked up Bill Lawrence (Bill & Becky) L500R / L500XL humbucker pair of pickups for the guitar.  One volume and two tone knobs and my intent was to wire it like this:

The problem I'm having is the the switch portion of the drawning is confusing me.  In this drawing, it looks like there are two of the import style blade switches.  I just have one standard CRL 5 way switch which looks nothing like that, nor does it have 12 (or 24 since it looks like there are two) terminals.  It only has four terminals on each side.

Any ideas? I have no idea how to proceed with this.

 

[VinceClortho]

The wiring diagram is for a Super Switch which has all those extra contacts.  Your switch won't allow for the split coil wiring shown in the diagram without a push/pull pot in the mix.

 

[Cagey]

Dang-blasted hobbies! All the time costing money!  :laughing7:

What's not mentioned on that wiring diagram is that's what's known as  5 position Strat "Super Switch". It's a pretty versatile component, and there's some discussion of it here if you'd like.

 

[dcbrown73]

Alright, that makes more sense.

Now I just have to figure out how I want to wire this one then.  I maybe better off just switching to a 3-way switch then I suppose.

 

[Cagey]

I used a pair of those Wilde Bill L500XLs in this Jazzmaster...

...and that's how I wired those - 1 3-way toggle. I'm a big fan of simple when it comes to controls.

 

[VinceClortho]

I also like the 3 way toggle.  Bridge-Both-Neck. Easy.

If I want a coil split I'll add that with a push/pull.  It won't mix the humbuckers with the single coil but it will give the option of the single coil sound (as much as HB will allow) and in the same bridge-both-neck combination. 

The below diagram will give you something like 1-bridge HB, 2-both HB, 3-neck HB, 4-neck & bridge SC, 5-bridge SC.  For me that is isn't intuitive at all but that is probably your best option if you want to stick with your switch and get some split coil options.

Also, be aware the Lawrence/Wilde pickup wire colors are different than Duncans so you'll have to adjust accordingly.

 

[stratamania]

@Cagey, do you recall by any chance the pickup rout option for the Wilde L500 type pickups you used in your Jazzmaster?

The closest option in the Warmoth pickguard choices seems to be the Fat Humbucker (No Cover). But just trying to get confirmation prior to a future order.

 

[Cagey]

I don't remember for certain, but fat humbucker sounds right.

 

[stratamania]

I don't remember for certain, but fat humbucker sounds right.

Thanks, Cagey. I think it is the closest option also.

I will confirm it at some point in a future thread.

 

[Cagey]

There's some discussion of those here along with some dimensions, if that'll help. Apparently, there are some variations in L500 size depending on vintage.

 

[rgand]

I used the Warmoth fat humbucker rout in the pickguard for my Strat. That rout is just a skosh snug in width but you can file that out slightly and it works great. That is true for both the Wilde and USA pickups.

 

[dcbrown73]

I also like the 3 way toggle.  Bridge-Both-Neck. Easy.

If I want a coil split I'll add that with a push/pull.  It won't mix the humbuckers with the single coil but it will give the option of the single coil sound (as much as HB will allow) and in the same bridge-both-neck combination. 

The below diagram will give you something like 1-bridge HB, 2-both HB, 3-neck HB, 4-neck & bridge SC, 5-bridge SC.  For me that is isn't intuitive at all but that is probably your best option if you want to stick with your switch and get some split coil options.

Also, be aware the Lawrence/Wilde pickup wire colors are different than Duncans so you'll have to adjust accordingly.

Thanks for the 5-way switch wiring schematic.  That said, I think I will just dumb it down too and go with a simplistic 3-way switch wiring. (bridge-both-neck setup)

I really wanted to go with single coils too for the versatility, but maybe in the future I can rewire it. (I already have the 5-way switch)  Right now, I just want to get it built with the least amount of frustration.

Just need to follow the advice I usually hand out at work in the IT field.  Keep It Simple Stupid.  (KISS)

 

[dcbrown73]

I used a pair of those Wilde Bill L500XLs in this Jazzmaster...

...and that's how I wired those - 1 3-way toggle. I'm a big fan of simple when it comes to controls.

This is my first set of Bill Lawrence pickups.  I'm super excited about them.  I've been a DiMarzio guy for years.

EDIT: Wow, your lawn is very (and nice) damn green!