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Shaping a body from a blank

ragamuffin

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For those of you that have cut/shaped your own bodies, what's your process? Band saw, then sand the sides smooth, then roundover? Do you use a wood/mdf template, or just follow drawn lines?

I've got a vision in my head for my next build, based on a Music Man Albert Lee, but it's not a shape that Warmoth/anyone else I've seen offers so I would have to shape the it myself. I did find a PDF template for the body shape online which should help out greatly.

Thanks
 
When I started out I used a jigsaw for the rough profile, then I used files and rasps to do the final shaping before sanding (several grits). Nowadays, I use many tools and techniques - mostly just want I want at the time. It's truly "More than one way to skin a cat".
 
My full answer would be over-long, so the short version is...

Make (2x) templates
Band saw blank close to the line
Spindle sander closer
Route the outline
Do all the other stuff
 
Fat Pete said:
My full answer would be over-long, so the short version is...

Make (2x) templates
Band saw blank close to the line
Spindle sander closer
Route the outline
Do all the other stuff

Thanks, is the second template a backup or for something else? Do you think it would be worthwhile to have someone make a cnc-d template for me, or is it easy enough to make a good one yourself?

Right now I just have a router; I'm planning on getting a drill press soon and possibly using a friends bandsaw or getting my own.
 
ragamuffin said:
...Thanks, is the second template a backup or for something else? Do you think it would be worthwhile to have someone make a cnc-d template for me, or is it easy enough to make a good one yourself?...

The first template is 6mm mdf made directly from the drawing. Thin material is easier to work with using hand tools; it can also be transferred to the second, thicker, working template in one router pass so its edges are perfectly right-angled to the faces.

It's not a bad idea to keep a master template anyway, just in case.

Whatever works for you though. No reason why a more direct approach wouldn't work just as well, especially for a one-off. As AirCap says, more than one way...
 
Fat Pete said:
My full answer would be over-long, so the short version is...

Make (2x) templates
Band saw blank close to the line
Spindle sander closer
Route the outline
Do all the other stuff
This is basically how I do it. I'll add a couple notes to these steps.

Make 2x templates. I first make a 1/4" MDF template because it's easier to get even. I make the control routs in that template. Then I make a 3/4" MDF working template from that. I affix it to the wood with double stick tape.

Bandsaw close to the line

Spindle sander closer.

Rout the outline. With my router table, I use a 1/2" x 2" spiral upcut bit and clean the whole outline in one pass. Well, two since I go over it twice. Then the control cavities get routed using a hand router. I have another pattern that has the neck and pickup cavities and that gets stuck to the body after the first template is pulled off. When I need something different than what I already have, I can modify the 1/4" template and make another working template from that.

Yes to do all the other stuff. I do the roundover after that. Then I cut the comfort contours with a rotary rasp bit in my grinder and clean up with a palm sander. After that I make and install all the other things (pickguard, control plate, switches, etc.). The last step is to sand for the finish. Nothing is more annoying than to get it ready for paint then put a little mark on it that means you have to flat sand the whole top or back again. I keep Fisket Film on it while doing all the other stuff to keep from goobering up the surface.

Here's what one of my working patterns looks like, the photo is after spindle sanding close. Note the two screws affixing it. This is before I started using double stick tape.

zGNFSTD.jpg


I like to work from the centerline since that is a constant reference from pattern to pattern.
 
Rgand said:
This is basically how I do it. I'll add a couple notes to these steps.

Thanks a ton! Once I get a hold of a bandsaw I'll have to get a cheap body blank or two to practice on.

I'm thinking I don't trust myself enough to route the neck pocket, so I'll likely end up getting a routed blank for the final product
 
Hey guys, thinking further about my body shaping and such, what's the best way to route for a blade switch on a rear-routed body?  ???

I read somewhere about a guy using a tele control plate as a template for drilling multiple small holes with a drill press and then using a file to clean up/connect the dots, is there a better way for someone with minimal tools?

I know I could have Warmoth route it, but I'd prefer it to line up with the shape of the body if possible, purely an aesthetic thing
 
I cut one in a pickguard with a dremel (dangerous to do with your expensive body) then cleaned up the slot with a swiss file. I practiced with some PG material before I tried it on one to keep.

If you really make a hash of it, you can get one of these Marr Jaguar blade switch plates from Faction Guitars and cut the outside shape down to just cover your goobered slot. This plate is stainless steel so after you grind/file/sand it to the shape you want, you can re-polish the edges to a mirror finish.
 
You can also get these things from Ali Express, if it looks like it might work out easier/better.

1-pcs-5-Way-Selector-Electric-Guitar-Lever-Switches-Plates-Guitar-Toggle-Lever-Switches-Plastic-washer.jpg_200x200.jpg

Takes a week or two to get them, but they're cheap & easy. Makes cutting the slot less demanding.
 
Thanks guys! I'm going to practice on some scrap, but I may very well just have W route it... Or maybe try to make a little plate out of wenge; I plan to use a couple wood parts on this build
 
I used a combo.  Basic shape with a bandsaw.  I then used a combo of rasps and sanders for final shaping.

take a look
https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=28621.0
 
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