Scalloped Neck wood chips: How much do they weigh?

I used to play exclusively on a scalloped board on my old strat, and while it does work well if you know how to play with a proper technique, I honestly don't see what it accomplishes that can not be accomplished with a set of SS6100's.

Back when Blackmore, McLaughlin, & Memesteen all started scalloping, there wasn't a whole lot of instruments available as oem with 6100 sized fretwire.  Now there is.  Now there's no longer a need to remove wood to get more clearance, taller frets give you the clearance, and you retain a stiffer, more stable neck, especially if unfinished, especially if that unfinished neck is all maple. 

In fact, I can't see how anyone would consider an unfinished maple neck when canary, pau-fero, and other more tangible, just as toneful, choices exist.

Want a light neck, that doesn't need to be finished and has lots of clearance from the fret surface to the fingerboard surface?  Get an exotic with a wizard profile and SS6100 fretwire, done. :headbang1:
 
Just an idea, but maybe you could look at the type of neck that comes with the YJM Strat pre and post-scallop and compare the weight.
 
Maybe I'm missing the real point and benefit of this information, it seems so miminal, like how much your fretting hand weighs before and after you clip your nails...

No disrespect intended, just not getting the point.
 
TonyFlyingSquirrel said:
Maybe I'm missing the real point and benefit of this information, it seems so miminal, like how much your fretting hand weighs before and after you clip your nails...

No disrespect intended, just not getting the point.

This.


:blob7:
 
If you want to prevent neck-dive, you could try attaching the strap to the headstock like many acoustic players do.

(Sorry, I don't have an answer to your original question.)
 
Back
Top