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P/MM Bass

Corey P. said:
Very tidy, and a little wrong, but in a good/intentional way.  :icon_thumright:  Some great handy-work, too: thanks for sharing the progress!  :occasion14:

Thanks.  My favorite build threads usually have lots of pics and details.  I'd tried to reciprocate a bit. 

As far as looking off intentionally, besides the hideous pickguard color (at least with this color body), there is a hardware mismatch here and there.  It's got black neck screws and a brass neck plate on a build with chrome hardware!

I think a vintage tint on the neck would've looked great, as would a paint matched peg head.  Oh well, next time.  This was a bass built around a showcase neck deal.
 
Updown said:
Looks great  :hello2:

Clean and mean !!
Great all round job  :icon_thumright:
I personally like the red pickguard, great choices all over.

Didn't know Doug was doing them in brass, gee I might get a better tone, using one of them  :laughing7:

What ya mean ya need a camera  :kewlpics:

Yeah, he does the usual chrome, gold, and black, as well as aluminum and brass.  I originally ordered a black one, but his black plates were backordered.  I was curious about a brass one, not for any tonal advantage, but the no rusting aspect.

I can't imagine the brass neck plate doing a lot, good or bad, for tone simply because of the location and weight differences between the two pieces being so small.  A bridge, tuners, tremblock, etc. is probably a more reasonable expectation and discussion.
 
Nice work ! 

I just git a commission for a similar bulid , except a J bass on the neck ,  I love mutations!
 
My client is still picking out wood .. He's leaning  towards a Korina body  Wenge / Ebony neck . Delano pickups and pre amp . 
 
It's always fun to try something new.
 

Attachments

I've done two 4 hour gigs with it last weekend.  I'm not gonna jump the gun and swear it's the best thing ever just yet.  Keeping the radius at the saddles the same as the neck, I've got a few high frets in different places on different strings, which is to be expected.  I know the score and difference between fret install and good enough vs. playable.

The things I am pleased with so far are the pickups and how the nut came from Warmoth.  My main gigging basses are my 2 EMG equipped J-basses.  A few minutes of sound check torture for the observer and what to boost and what to scoop gained a pleasing end result.  Of course all that went away when the band started.  Keep on tweaking, I'll get there. 

I'm used to, and even expected, the nut to be high on this one.  It was close, but the E string actually needed widening, as it appeared to be for a smaller gauge than .105.

The pickups, used separately, do a great recreation of both classic sounds.  The bridge pickup really bites.  I have no idea about it's placement compared to the real McCoy, but it's much closer to the bridge than the bridge MM pickup on my Iceman.
 
After much gigging and tweaking, I like both pickups separately but not together.  It seems to give the worst of both worlds.  Imagine a trebley P-Bass pickup with a big volume drop off with when both volumes are at 10.  The push/pull for the MM bridge pickup is set for series/parallel.  I like the series position much more.  I see a rewire in the future of master tone, master volume, and 2 way switch.  Neck or bridge pickup, but not both.
 
This thread is a really good example of rational behavior and logical problem-solving. There are people who would spend weeks obsessing over the "no side jack" issue, instead of just cutting the damn thing. And I think the bass looks really good - though I'd go for the "blue shell" pickguard myself.
 
Very Cool--I like everything you did cuz it's YOURS! I'm completely impressed with your ability to tweak things to the way you want 'em...VERY COOL!!!
 
StubHead said:
This thread is a really good example of rational behavior and logical problem-solving. There are people who would spend weeks obsessing over the "no side jack" issue, instead of just cutting the damn thing. And I think the bass looks really good - though I'd go for the "blue shell" pickguard myself.

That may just be an example of where I'm at in ability vs. where I was.  This forum gives a little bit of confidence.  Now I think nothing of drilling a sidejack hole or cutting a pickguard, but in the mid 90s, a Warmoth seemed intimidating because I would've had to drill my neck holes.

Also, I'm considering a blue or green pearl pickguard.
 
As promised, I did a rewire tonight.  I didn't like the sound of the 2 pickups together or the parallel sound of the bridge pickup.  Switching between them meant rolling one volume off and the other on, so I made it a master volume and tone, hardwired the bridge humbucker as series out-of-phase, and added a 2 way switch.

IMAG1697.jpg
 
Got a few pickguards.  They may find their way on this, or may go on the shelf for a future project.  The red pearl is always what I'd had in mind, but it is a lot of red!

Here it is as is:
IMAG1905_zps36dd1b0e.jpg


Green Pearl:
IMAG1907_zpse5b39e1d.jpg


Blue Pearl:
IMAG1906_zpsf8db418e.jpg
 
I never have done a thread in the finished section for this yet, mainly because it doesn't photograph like it looks in person.  Outside in the sun, green.  Indoors at night under artificial light, more blue.  Different people have even referred to it as different colors.  "Where's the green one?  Where's the blue one?"  They're talking about the same one.

But, enough chit chat, I've done some more work on it, and here to report on it's 2 year check up.

First thing, threaded inserts on the neck.  Steel inserts, stainless steel screws.  Enough people have done them, and enough info is on the forum of why and how to do them.  Here's how I did 'em/

The before pics.  This neck has the clear satin nitro, and as you know, nitro is not UV protective.  That is, the maple underneath can darken with UV exposure.  You can see the area in the heel is slightly lighter than the played area.  Also, no mods to the mounting holes yet.



I mount this piece of wood with wood screws and drill the the two diagonal holes larger for the inserts.  Then, I install the inserts, flip the piece of wood, attach with machine screws, and finish the other 2.  Pictured also is how I maintain the the right angles when drilling and stuff.









I want to say the #8 wood screws are 1 3/4".  The 8-32 machine screws I install are 2".  This means a couple of the things, I drill deep, and I install the inserts deep.

The wood screw compared the machine screw.



With the screw put in finger tight, this is how it compares to the depth of the heel.  As you can see, it's about the same depth and doesn't account for the plastic neckplate pad and neckplate.



Here they are during attachment.  Pushed in, they haven't started to thread yet, and the depth sticking out is just a hair more than the actual depth of the insert.



Oh yeah!  Don't forget to wax the inserts before installing. 



Here's the stuff going on and in, and the finished product.






And, for bonus points, I forgot I did this...name and drivers license number (blacked out for the internet) done with a label maker on the underside of the neckplate.  If stolen, it won't prove I own it, only that I put a sticker there.




 
Whoa, Tigger.... I sincerely think if you were to clone your threaded-insert guide out of, like, this:
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6994&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1268&top_cat=60

You could handily sell some to a lot of people. Like, I'd take one.... The bugaboo about Online Metals is that the shipping cost is always at least $14 or $15, even if you buy one tiny sliver. I could maybe figure a way to throw a few feet of this in with some other people's orders, as I know some metallic-type people who order a lot. That guide is a stupendous idea, but it could possibly be improved and sold as a (Ebaying?) kit if you found or fabbed some smooth steel drill bit guides that fit the big holes and corresponded to a specific size of insert.
 
That's a neat idea with the wood screwed to the neck and using the channels on the drill press.
 
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