Nut tweaks & weird intonation on Strat Tiltback Gibson Scale Conversion neck

Bruce Campbell

Junior Member
Messages
112
Looks like it was cut for 3+3 (by Warmoth), the D through high E are most obvious in the extreme slant. I contacted Warmoth and they suggested widening the back ends of the slots. Anyone else have experience with this?
 

Attachments

  • 20220131_164116.jpg
    20220131_164116.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 144
  • 20220131_202139.jpg
    20220131_202139.jpg
    3.4 MB · Views: 144
Looks like a great opportunity to invest in nut slotting files!  Just remember to go at it gradually, or you will then get to learn nut replacement.
 
I see ... they were cut not straight, the d, g and b slots seem to be angled. Can you post a pick head on showing the full head stock and the first fret.  I’m curious if the strings head straight to the tuning pegs or if they zag again and by how much. If they go straight to the pegs and you like the string spacing on the fret board it could be nothing.
It’s been almost 20 years since I owned a warmoth tilt back strat neck and the slots might be angled to accommodate the tilt.  I can’t remember ... Did warmoth say the way it should be?  Did they say an angle in the nut slot is normal?  I’d rely  on what they say.
 
Exactly - they are angled a bit that isn't exactly a straight pull through to the tuners. Warmoth advised me to work with it, not sure if it was 100% right from the shop but the strings were creaking during tuning on the D through E. Low E & A were really good right away.

I filed the back openings a little wider, creating more of a guide towards the tuners with straighter string pull. It wasn't much but really helped a lot so far. They did advise me not to trim down the height of the nut slots, but they are all a bit higher than a normal setup so I'm probably going to bring the whole thing down from the bottom during next string change.
 
It is not correctly slotted and filing it may help but basically if it was me I would remove that nut and replace it.
 
What he said.  But because I'm a make-do kind of guy I would use the superglue trick to fill the wonky slots. Then I'd re-cut them. 

But yea, as they are they are not good. I would make it right somehow.
 
Is this on a new neck?  If so, I would expect Warmoth to replace it at their cost.  If you bought the neck used, I’d replace the nut.

Bill, tgo
 
#1 reason to never buy a black nut... baking soda and superglue.
 
Thanks for the advice folks; Warmoth did confirm that this nut looks to be cut more for a Wizard or Nomad, so it's getting a refund. And yes, I'm glad I've never gone the black Tusq nut route, for surgical reasons.
 
swarfrat said:
#1 reason to never buy a black nut... baking soda and superglue.

bcamp said:
Thanks for the advice folks; Warmoth did confirm that this nut looks to be cut more for a Wizard or Nomad, so it's getting a refund. And yes, I'm glad I've never gone the black Tusq nut route, for surgical reasons.

What's with all this dissing on black Tusq nuts?  I have them on several guitars where the black fits in aesthetically with the rest of the black hardware.  Black Tusq Nuts Matter!

Bill, tgo
 
They look sharp on the right guitar but you can't fix it with baking soda and super glue
 
Lbpesq said:
swarfrat said:
#1 reason to never buy a black nut... baking soda and superglue.

bcamp said:
Thanks for the advice folks; Warmoth did confirm that this nut looks to be cut more for a Wizard or Nomad, so it's getting a refund. And yes, I'm glad I've never gone the black Tusq nut route, for surgical reasons.

What's with all this dissing on black Tusq nuts?  I have them on several guitars where the black fits in aesthetically with the rest of the black hardware.  Black Tusq Nuts Matter!

Bill, tgo

In truth, I dislike all Tusq nuts; I find they wear down pretty quick when bending a lot. Also used to use String Saver Saddles, but moved to Callaham parts eventually. I do like bone for nuts but Corian has been very balanced.
 
Stewmac sells this stuff they call "Nut Rescue Powder" that's supposed to work as well as the baking soda trick, but it's color matched (white, ivory, black) so it hides well. Kinda pricey @ $20, but theoretically there's enough there to last you somewhere near forever.  For a single nut, it's probably easier to just remake a new nut, but if you repair slots frequently...
2348-1-set-set-with-tamper.jpg
 
Just as an add-on, they also sell colored CA glue to go with those............ :icon_thumright:
 
Thanks to everyone for your insights. A further update: finally got things working pretty well with this nut; a tech friend deepened each slot a bit, and then filed a size bigger on each slot in the end to just widen, not deepen, the slots. I was trying to use an exact-fitting file on the slots where the file gauge matched the string gauge, but that caused pinging, even with trying to rock the file back and forth to widen slightly. He didn't go crazy with polishing but also was doing this for free, so if you get more intense with that final step it might help further.
 
Well, after taking it to another tech who cut a new bone nut, the neck is still not quite working right. The intonation both with the old nut and new is impossible to get right; when in tune at 12th fret and beyond, the register from frets 1-11 is quite flat, but trying to take it the other way just makes everything way sharp. Any other insights from people who've been in similar situations?
 
Last edited:
Possibly it may be worth you trying an aftermarket Earvana for example.


Have you also tried verifying that the measurements between the nut slot and the 1st fret are correct for the scale length?


All of the above said, guitar necks can never be fully in tune everywhere, especially with chords, so most tuning is a compromise.
 
Possibly it may be worth you trying an aftermarket Earvana for example.


Have you also tried verifying that the measurements between the nut slot and the 1st fret are correct for the scale length?


All of the above said, guitar necks can never be fully in tune everywhere, especially with chords, so most tuning is a compromise.
Upon measuring frets 1-3 and 12, all are slightly under the lengths specified by that fret position calculator. It's not a ton and my tape doesn't have ultra resolution but definitely a bit under on each.
 
Are the strings gripping at the bridge?How about trying string saver saddles. The steel ones with the insert. At the end the day it might just be an improperly cut neck. A good Luther can diagnose. Where do you live maybe we can recommend someone who knows what they are doing.
 
Back
Top