non warmoth build 1st acoustic

[mgaut051]

I am in awe, sir.

+1

 

[smjenkins]

+1000  This is really an amazing project.  There's been some threads recently on what it means to be a "real" luthier.  Do you think Big Bob counts? 

 

[big bob]

This is where I'm at I spent 3 or so hours last night looking over pics and schematics from golden era Martins, then this morning I spent hours scraping and sanding.. I have all the braces shaped, I did not go as deep as some of the martins as I'm afraid of having week braces
so any experts out there take a look to go deeper or stand pat.

thanks
Lance

 

[Nando Vallart]

Looks really well! Congrats!

 

[nexrex]

Wow, coming along really well  :hello2:

 

[rapfohl09]

Oh my  :icon_thumright:

 

[big bob]

Hi guys, got the book matched back joined yesterday, it did not come flush sanded so I did that, took some time a s I went slow, but was not hard. I decided to use the black purfering strip that came with the kit.
Next was gluing down the center strip, no big deal. Then notching the back braces, smooth no issues. Then holding the back in the correct shape, 5 degree bow, while gluing the braces on!  What a pain in the ass. It took me all night to get it set up before gluing...
But she is all braced and ready to be glued in place.. Today I need to get the body back to the correct shape, reattach the waist clamp and then glue down the back..

nothing more for now, until later
Chow.

:glasses9:

 

[Cagey]

I'll bet this is gonna be like the difference between home-grown tomatoes and those raunchy store-bought things they grow in hothouses whose only resemblance to tomatoes is appearance.

 

[Nando Vallart]

didn't understand the 5° part... looks good so far!

 

[big bob]

didn't understand the 5° part... looks good so far!

the top and back on an acoustic guitar are slightly arched. the top at 1.5 degree and the back at 5 degree. because the arch is so slight it is not carved into the top or back but carved into the braces. that way once they are glued in they pull the top and back into the correct arch.
There are two ways to glue the braces one is flat to the top and back. This way is easier but reduces the amount of arch. the second way is what I did. press the top and back into a mold then install the braces as to hold the arch better..
:icon_smile:

 

[Nando Vallart]

oh bad... thought they where flat top :doh:

 

[big bob]

finished up the sanding today and test fitted the back, as I had thought with the waist clamp off the rim got out of shape so I made a jig/clamp to hold the body in the correct shape then I reinstalled the waist clamp...
Next I test fitted the back, made some adjustments with the braces and did a test run through the clamping... then finally got the back clamped on.. keeping my fingers crossed till tomorrow...

thats all for tonight..

 

[Cagey]

Well, that ought to hold it. Until it falls off <grin>

 

[big bob]

It's a body.... all's good so far.. binding is next....GULP>>

 

[Cagey]

Lookin' good! Startin' to get spooky! You got a lotta time and effort into this thing now, and it's gettin' real! Gonna have to start checking every move three or four times instead of twice.

 

[big bob]

Thanks for all the kind words.. It's funny you guys think this project is going so fast, I feel things are moving at a snails pace.

The next step in the process is to fit the neck to the neck pocket, before final assembly of the neck. The neck is provided with a mortise and tenon joint. The joint is at a 10 degree angle and as provided needs to be "sanded to fit".
Sanded to fit means the neck tenon is just a little large so that when the neck is set in the body the neck will sit just slightly high, then the sides are lightly sanded, evenly, keeping the 10 degree angle until the necks sits flush to the top.
The fit on my neck was, well lets say WAY THE F OFF.. It sat about 1/2 of an inch above the body when seated. After some trial and error I found it nearly impossible to sand the sides evenly while keeping the 10 degree angle. I just could not do it with a file or rasp. So I made a jig to hold the neck, the jig also provides a level bed to act as a base for a sanding block. then I made a sanding block with a 10 degree angle on the business end. The set up works far better than I would have thought and I should have the neck fit and ready for assembly today. I also decided I would cop-out and purchase a binding router guide from stewmac as I just don't think I can make a tool to accurately route the track for the binding. Until the package gets here I'm stymied on the body..

 

[big bob]

The neck is flush to the top and nice and tight, great fit so far I still need to adjust the angle and before I can do that I must assemble the neck. I'm waiting on some parts from stewmac so I thought I would go ahead and inlay the neck. Went with real mop (no plastic for me).
set the dots with super glue, filed flush then sanded 220, 320, 400, 800, 0000 steel wool. the fretboard is now nice and smooth and ready for frets.

enjoy

 

[exaN]

This is looking reaaaaal good

Weird inlays though :icon_scratch:

 

[big bob]

This is looking reaaaaal good

Weird inlays though :icon_scratch:

I thought so too. it's the standard martin acoustic layout.. No Idea why it's a double at the 7th?

 

[mayfly]

Just reading this thread now....

Jesus H Christ!   

Looking really good!