Neck Construction and Stability

HMstratocaster

Junior Member
Messages
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Hey, guys haven't been on here in...four years?  :laughing7: Anyway, great to be back! My question is about multi-laminate necks. I know Warmoth offers quarter-sawn, but not multi-laminate necks. Forgive me if this question has been asked recently as I haven't been on here, but I heard from a reliable source when ordering his strat replacement neck over the phone Warmoth only offers quarter-sawn because it is frequently requested and that they have found by using their double acting truss rod they find the results of stability comparison negligible. Any thoughts or opinions greatly appreciated!

:rock-on:

-HM
 
It's true. The dual-acting truss rod makes for a remarkably stable neck. I have some here that are 5, 6 years old that have never needed adjustment, and this is Michigan. Stories like that are also quite common for other places where temperature/humidity fluctuate widely.

Another thing you can do to help yourself is to buy into woods that aren't sensitive to temperature/humidity changes. Maple, Mahogany, Walnut and a couple others will almost act haunted the way they move on their own, while most of the exotics retain their shape. As an added benefit with the exotics, you can save the price of a finish. That will sometimes pay the premium for the more sparsely available species. Burnish them before assembly, and it'll feel like the finest satin you ever laid hands on, and play really fast. I'd wager at least half the members here would tell you that once you get a raw neck with the modern construction, you never want to go back to the traditional ways.
 
Hey - you didn't mention Roasted Maple!  The crack cocaine of stable, raw, wonderful feeling and looking necks!

Roasted Maple is the hot ticket these days. 
 
Mayfly said:
Hey - you didn't mention Roasted Maple!  The crack cocaine of stable, raw, wonderful feeling and looking necks!

Roasted Maple is the hot ticket these days.

Oh baby, how I would love me some roasted maple.  :eek:ccasion14:
 
Cagey said:
It's true. The dual-acting truss rod makes for a remarkably stable neck. I have some here that are 5, 6 years old that have never needed adjustment, and this is Michigan. Stories like that are also quite common for other places where temperature/humidity fluctuate widely.

Another thing you can do to help yourself is to buy into woods that aren't sensitive to temperature/humidity changes. Maple, Mahogany, Walnut and a couple others will almost act haunted the way they move on their own, while most of the exotics retain their shape. As an added benefit with the exotics, you can save the price of a finish. That will sometimes pay the premium for the more sparsely available species. Burnish them before assembly, and it'll feel like the finest satin you ever laid hands on, and play really fast. I'd wager at least half the members here would tell you that once you get a raw neck with the modern construction, you never want to go back to the traditional ways.

I'd really be into a full ebony neck. I've though about it a lot. I'm kinda a maple/rosewood guy myself though. Although I think the alternative I've been looking at is using Kingwood for the rosewood because of it's stability. Combine that with some roasted maple and I should be pretty square. I live in Washington state and believe it or not the humidity is actually decimals higher than Miami.  :tard: So it is important. Thanks for the great info. 
 
A full Ebony neck is a heavy chunk of lumber, but it sure feels good. You pick up one of those Ebony parts and it feels like you're holding some kinda weapon  :laughing7:  I have two of them here now, one African over Brazilian Ebony, and one all African, both with "modern" construction. Once the tuners, nut and threaded inserts are installed they weigh 2.3 lbs. Put one of those on something like an SG and you'd learn a whole new meaning for "neck dive"  :laughing7:  In contrast, an all roasted Maple part I have is 1.4 lbs. I also have an Ebony over curly Maple part that only weighs 1.3 lbs. That's a pound of difference from the all-Ebony, which is substantial.

But, as far as feel goes, once you burnish the roasted Maple, it's easily as smooth as the Ebony. Plus, it's also a very "bright" (tone-wise) neck wood, like the Ebony. So, unless you want a very dark (color-wise) wood front and back, the all roasted Maple or Ebony over roasted Maple is a good way to go. Substantially less expensive, too.

 
I'm also in the overpriced and overhyped state of WA and have found my strats to be very stable. But  I have gravitated toward pretty chunky necks so that may be a factor. Although, I have a Bubinga neck Cagey fretted and burnished for me that is Warmoth's "Clapton" V, essentially a standard thin with a V in my opinion. Its got the dual acting truss rod and no issues. My other necks are maple and boatneck or fatback and have a single, top adjust rod but have not needed anything. They are kept in good, hardshell cases as well. Only thing that has needed adjustment to date is the Tanglewood acoustic I bought that balked at a July heatwave last year. Otherwise so far so good. But I don't think you can go wrong with the "Modern" dual acting trussrod neck and if you throw in roasted maple you should be sleeping at night and not fraught with worry.
 
Even on my maple/RW bari-tele neck.

I have just enough of a tru-oil finish on it to fill the grain & then some slight level, then sanded down to 2000 grit, and I've not had to adjust the truss rod of it since the level/crown/setup 4 years ago.

I live less than 10 miles from Warmoth, in the heart of Puget Sound, and we get our fare share of rain along with its associated humidity here.
 
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