1st post- considering 5 string P/J hybrid bass build

Robin Ruscio

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Hey all! Cool site. I'm a full time freelance electric/URB bassists and instructor in Denver. You can see my website at www.robinruscio.com

I had a Warmoth body back in my college days with a 70's Fender neck, and was pleased to see what's been going on with them here and on their site.

I've gotten obsessed with finding a perfect P/J five string bass for some rock/country/pop/motown gigs I'm doing more of and have been looking high and low at my options. I've got the "P" sound in my head and can't quite get it with other basses I own.  I'm pretty sure about what I want but it's hard to find all the components in the same pre made package. I have some very nice basses (A Fodera, Sadowsky NYC jazz 5, Roscoe fretless) and am used to high quality, so it's hard to think about compromising much on any area.

Here's what I want:

5 strings- There's too many situations I find the 5 indefensible in these days.

P/J pups: Not sure which make yet, gonna A/B some in some current basses I can check out more in person, but probably something pretty high end that do a great job at getting a classic tone only better.  Nordstrand, Lindy Frailins, etc.

I need the bass to be lightweight- less than 8.5 lbs, 8 or less being better. I've seen Mike Lull's and Sadowsky fives that sound good around this weight. This bass is going to be my long gig/standing bass. My Fodera is amazing but at over 10.3 lbs, I won't consider playing it more than a short set standing. (I have a serious chronic shoulder pain issue and play an average of 3.5 gigs a week, sometimes as many as 8.)  34" to keep it traditional sounding as possible.

I really have found my fingerboard wood preference to be rosewood, preferably Brazilian. It's just the sound and feel I'm always looking for, and my basses that I've tried with maple, wenge, ebony, etc I always find thinking they're not quite right.

I prefer a Jazz bass neck and body, and preferably undersized with a slightly extended range- 22 frets would be fine. This won't be my solo axe but I do get asked to solo and like the upper register to be very accessible.

Some sort of active pre that can also go passive to keep a true traditional tone, or be kicked on for some more kick and shaping options.

I'm thinking alder body but might consider ash for punch as long as it's not as bright as the ash/maple fingerboard sound, which is clacky for my taste. I don't want that much attack and would like to get close to Jamerson sound with the tone knob rolled back.

I'm a sucker for some nice figured, wood as well. The bass has to really catch my eye for me to love it.


Most of the basses I looked at that get close around $3k, with ones doing what I really want closer to $5k. Ouch.  . .


SO > >>
I spec'd out building a Warmoth bass and having them do most of the work today given what I was looking for. I would like some thoughts on these options, especially ones I'm not decided on.

I came up with a Deluxe 5 body (alder or ash- haven't decided) with a laminate top, probably flame or quilt maple. I wish they offered chambering on it to get the weight down, and wonder if it could be made "dingy" like some of their 4 J and P's to make it a little more playable. I'm going to call and find out if this is possible and if so, how much. The finish options look good as well, and thought I might do a burst or something.

The deluxe 5  4+1 neck would be maple neck (maybe flame or birdseye) and rosewood board, satin finish, 22 frets. Got to find out how much brazilian fingerboards are tomorrow as well, but very excited to have this as an option! I'd probably of quarter sawn on the neck back. I was also excited to find out about either the steel or graphite rods. I have graphite in my neck now and am curious how the steel compares. Also love asymmetrical necks- something no other company I look at was offering. I had an MTD 535 and loved it's neck profile. 

For hardware, I've always liked some kind of light weight tuners, not sure what works with these holed but Hipshot ultralights come to mind. They have a new 5 string tree as well. Definitely like black hardware. Not sure on a bridge and would love suggestions here.

The PUPS/pre thing can be figured out later, but Nord or Sadowsky pre seems like a possibility.

I have great local luth who I work with constantly and thought I would hit him up to put all this together. I do my own setups but would have him do the nut and install everything.

Of course, my price for major parts with finishing was still around $1700 unassembled, but this is pretty close to the cost of modding a Fender P  V (about $1200 new plus new PUPS, routing J pup slot, fret dress, new nut) and a Warmoth might be lighter and have better, prettier woods and smaller J body style for my tastes. A comparable sadowsky would be $5k and a Mike Lull about $3.5k I think, so this seems like a good deal if you consider what I'm getting.


What do you all think??  :blob7:



 
I love that you have thought out all of your options and are aiming for a specific sound.

The one downside I know right offhand (when I saw it) is that Brazilian Rosewood is effectively off limits unless you live in Washington.
Due to a new law or a reworded law, certain woods (CITES Treaty woods), aren't able to cross borders (at least without significant fees).

I think it would be great if you can get a 5 string in a Dinky (not dingy) body.  Warmoth has many more options available via phone or email than they can possibly list on the website.
The Gecko style has 3 different widths available (35" scale length though) but have 24 frets.
Tubby.twins has at least 5 Geckos and could possibly provide much more insight on them than I could.

Keep us updated and welcome to the board!
 
Hmm, I thought Brazilian rosewood was fine as it stayed in the US. I don't think those CITES treaties apply across state lines, but I'll check.

Phone call to Warmoth in the in the a.m. seems like a good idea.

It just occurred to me that a dual coil hum bucker with series/parallel switch might be cool in the bridge position as long as it can do a single coil sound when I need it to . . .
 
Robin Ruscio said:
Hmm, I thought Brazilian rosewood was fine as it stayed in the US. I don't think those CITES treaties apply across state lines, but I'll check.

Phone call to Warmoth in the in the a.m. seems like a good idea.

It just occurred to me that a dual coil hum bucker with series/parallel switch might be cool in the bridge position as long as it can do a single coil sound when I need it to . . .

All humbuckers are dual coil. By definition, you need two coils to have common mode rejection.

See if Warmoth will let you supply your own fretboard. I don't know what the current policy is on Brazilian Rosewood, but there's always the chance they could work with Brazilian if it is customer supplied.

And FWIW, AutoBat, Tubby has thirteen Geckos, not five! Probably a few more since the last time I asked him. :blob7:
 
Welcome to the fold!

I recently pieced together a Deluxe 5 bass (link), and went with/love Hipshot's hardware - I chose the Hipshot A bridge because I wanted brass and string-through - Warmoth only routes for the 17.5mm (.687") spacing, so be aware of that if that's the route you choose to go.  They do also offer the A bridge in aluminum to reduce weight.

I also used the Ultralite tuners; I believe W still only offers the 17mm route on the Deluxe 5 necks - the 1/2"ultralites require a 17.46" hole, and for me fit without modification, most likely because my neck doesn't require a finish.  If you wanted to use the ultralites on a finished neck you may either need to a)get the 3/8" version, which will leave a slight gap (it was suggested to me to wrap the tuner bushings in electrical tape for a snug fit), or b)ream the holes to the slightly larger size to use the 1/2" ones.  I don't have any negative opinion of the Schallers beyond not wanting to deal with index holes.

I also used Hipshot's 2-string retainer, which is aircraft aluminum, and again, quite light.

I haven't played a Warmoth neck with graphite rods, so I can't compare, but W does offer a pretty thorough explanation of their construction (link).  Weight wasn't a major consideration for me since I don't have any particularly long gigs, so I went with the steel rods.  The asymmetrical profile is really really nice to play.  I went with the 1 7/8" wide nut after falling out of love with my Musicman Stingray 5, which has the 1 3/4" width - I basically wanted and got Fender's Jazz V spacing done properly.

I personally prefer Swamp Ash to Alder for most basses, but I think of Alder as the definitive P-Bass wood, and if that's the alchemy you're after that would likely be the route I would go.

As far as electronics, I considered a P for the neck pickup as well, and Nordstrand's NP5 was my personal favorite for the P pickup, so that would get my vote.  I don't have any strong J pickup preferences or recommendations.  I've never tried a non-EMG pre, but I've heard great things about Aguilar's offerings.  Whatever route you go, if you do go active I'd definitely recommend the double battery box/going 18v, the headroom and greater battery life are both well worthwhile IMO.
 
Welcome, and yeah, you know what you want! You can talk to Ken at Roadhouse Pickups (TroubledTreble on this board) to get exactly what you want in a pickup. Send him a message, and throw out all sorts of crazy ideas.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna call warmth and talk to my luthier here about this, and will put up what I learn.
 
Greetings! Next thing you know, there will be seven bass builds on your workbench. Just be prepared for it.

Also, if Warmoth can't help you out with making it dingy, send it to me and I'll smack it around a bit.  :toothy10:
 
Well, I'm not sure I'll be going forward with this. You all are correct; even though they have Brazilian rosewood listed on the site, it's no longer available. That was a perk that was tipping me over the edge.

The other thing is I really wanted a reduced body size for a 5 that was chambered, and that's a custom job that got pretty expensive- over $800 for the body alone. Fro those prices, I'm back into boutique bass territory where I was. It will probably depend on whether I decided to sell another bass to fund this project or not.
 
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