L5S Custom

Alfang said:
would you send that to each of us who "Helped" so we can sign the headstock?

Hmm, that would probably cost as much as the whole guitar.  Maybe he could ship the backplate around for signatures....
 
Wow it's really fantastic! I'm glad this venture had such a cool result. :icon_thumright:
 
Thanks for all the kind words everyone! 

It's a killer axe that I can honestly say, "I wouldn't have come up with this design myself."  Something unusual but both classic and awesome at the same time.  I just haven't come up with a name yet. :-\
 
Not sure how I missed this being finished, I was watching it so closely. Man I want a L5S so bad. This thing is one of my favorites on the whole board.
 
Badfinger said:
Awesome build!  Did you have to specify additional body bracing for the Bigsby? 
I didn't have to because I was using the Vibramate, but I did anyways just in case.  I had them leave that area unrouted.
 
Blue313 said:
Max said:
Looks great! Now I need something similar :p
You ever bring the action down?
Yeah I did.  The other one sat a generous 1/8" higher.  The Stewmac bridge was definitely the ticket.

Sorry I caught this issue late, but what was the problem and what Stew Mac bridge did you sue to correct the action issue?

I'm thinking about using a Bigsby on a project sometime sin the future and the issue of which bridge that
a) matches Warmoth's routes and
b) can be used with a Bigsby,
is a big issue, so any advice you can offer would be helpful.
 
I used this one originally.  I got it in a parts trade and really didn't think anything of it until I strung it up.  I'm not sure if this is exactly the one, but it looks identical.
a1f1_1.JPG



With the neck dead flat and the studs cranked down flush to the body, the action was just shy of 1/4" at the 12th fret.  It may work well on a lot of Lesters I've seen that had a steeper angle.  However this bridge, even with the angled neck pocket, just wasn't going to work out on this build without shimming the neck.
DSC00042.jpg



Rather than shim the neck, I went with this one from Stewmac.  It's a lot more adjustable and has an overall lower profile.  It also appears to be radiusable if you removed and shimmed the saddles.  I'm thinking of trying some cut down FR shims to get a 18.5" radius down that end.
Locking_Roller_Bridge_Detail.jpg
 
Blue, could I ask if you had Warmoth drill the Bridge studs or did you drill them yourself?

If Warmoth drilled them, what did you specify?

(I have an interest in the Stew Mac Bridge that ended up working so well with the Bigsby, so if I end up going ahead with a project, I would like to know what to order as a pre drilled stud hole, that will match the Stew Mac Bridge.)

Thanx for any help you can provide.  :icon_thumright:
 
I had Warmoth drill for a Gotoh TOM and tailpiece.  The studs were compatible with the bushings, but the posts were about 1mm off.  I ended up just kissing the inside of the bridge mounting holes with a dremel.
 
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