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Is this Strat body or Soloist body?

weplaymusic

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I'm thinking of assembling Strat style guitar, just like the Charvel's prototype for Guthrie Govan.
I'm not quite sure if the body of the guitar is Strat style or Soloist style.
Any ideas??
 

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It is not either. If you want the most similar body, however, a Soloist would be the better choice.
 
Doesn't a non-finetuner Floyd get out of tune pretty easily? :sad1:
 
There is no locking nut, so there is no need for fine tuners. As long as the tuners have a satisfying ratio, and that the nut is properly lubricated...

 
Personally if I did this I would still use a Floyd with the fine tuners. But I like fine tuners...

I saw on another forum ages ago where John Suhr, had mentioned using a Floyd with no locking nut could be made to stay in tune well. Interesting that GG is with Charvel and is now exploring that.

If you think about it this makes sense as if the strings are locked at the bridge essentially they can't move. Although if the nut isn't locked a dive bomb may react slower as there will be more travel between the nut and your locking machine heads.
 
croquet hoop said:
There is no locking nut, so there is no need for fine tuners. As long as the tuners have a satisfying ratio, and that the nut is properly lubricated...

This. I have a friend who built a parts Strat with a Floyd bridge, a roller nut and some locking tuners. Stays in tune great and he's able to divebomb it with no problems. The real trick is to make sure the strings return to tension when the bridge goes back to the neutral position.
 
The "real 24 fret neck" conundrum appears again.  The Strat headstock shape, even on a Charvel, is misleading if you think you can recreate this exactly with Warmoth.  A soloist body and 24 fret extension would get you closest.

The Floyd and no locking nut comments, I don't think that bridge has fine tuners on it.  No need for fine tuners if the nut doesn't lock.
 
The Floyd on the GG Charvel doesn't have fine tuners or a locking nut, so fine tuners aren't needed.

It may be a little more difficult to find a Floyd without fine tuners possibly.

My preference if I did this to use the fine tuners even though not needed with a non locking nut is because I am used to making fine adjustments with them, I actually miss them to a degree on my non Floyd guitars.  Just another option to consider.
 
Neo Fender said:
stratamania said:
It may be a little more difficult to find a Floyd without fine tuners possibly.

The FR website lists the trem, sans fine tuners: http://www.floydrose.com/catalog/tremolos/6:non-fine-tuner/original.  Likely made by Schaller.

Yes, I used the word "sans".

Sans is fine with me and thanks for the info.

Anyway as it says at the link... The original Original is back!  ... Thanks for pointing that out as last time I was on the FR site it was not there. Looks like they will be selling a few due to Guthrie and Charvel.
 
croquet hoop said:
There is no locking nut, so there is no need for fine tuners. As long as the tuners have a satisfying ratio, and that the nut is properly lubricated...

Look at my avatar - I have a floyd w/o a locking nut.  I used schaller M6 locking tuners, nut lube, and angled the trem back slightly.  I stays in tune very well. I do not think I've touched the fine tuners other then to even them out.  Specs are here:

http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=22461.0

 
I never use locking nuts or string trees. Haven't needed them in years. Not even on Floyds or Kahlers. Those are old designs that have been superseded by Wilkinson and Schaller both, and copied by many. The only reason to use one now is for appearance's sake, because they look sorta cool, or so you can say you use the same stupid bridge as your current guitar hero.
 
Cagey said:
I never use locking nuts or string trees. Haven't needed them in years. Not even on Floyds or Kahlers. Those are old designs that have been superseded by Wilkinson and Schaller both, and copied by many. The only reason to use one now is for appearance's sake, because they look sorta cool, or so you can say you use the same stupid bridge as your current guitar hero.

How do you get enough downward pressure over the nut slots on the B and high-E strings?  I have found that there is some buzz, and a bit less sustain without  string tree.
 
Street Avenger said:
How do you get enough downward pressure over the nut slots on the B and high-E strings?  I have found that there is some buzz, and a bit less sustain without  string tree.

A well-formed nut made of a good material doesn't need any help, even on straight headstocks like Strats and Teles have. It also won't snag the string and cause tuning difficulties, or let it pop out of the slots. You do need some angle there, but nowhere near as much as you might think. Most modern tuners are short enough that there's plenty enough angle to keep the strings tight enough that they won't misbehave. They don't need much.

Guitar string tensions for a typical set of 10s run from roughly 15 to 20 pounds per string. That's between the tuner and the anchor point. The nut and the bridge have nothing to do with it. They're just pivot points that set the speaking length. Unless the nut or bridge saddles are soft or the bearing points are rough or shaped wrong, they're fine. Of course, "soft" is relative. Plastic/graphite/bone/brass/mild steel/stainless steel/zinc/aluminum/whatever will make audible differences.

There are some notes on nut formation here that are helpful. Nuts are not as simple as they look, but a good nut is not difficult to achieve if you're aware of those details and you have the proper tools. Takes time, but it's worth it.

 
Here is another photo.
This one looks like regular Strat and deeper low for 24 frets.

 

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