installing new neck & bridge screws

[SkuttleFunk]

Installing a woodscrew into a new hole is somewhat like tapping a thread into a metal hole ... you need a little lubricant to make things go smoothly. The best lubricant I have found for this is common bar soap like you shower/bathe with (umm ... you do shower, right?  :tard

Prior to installing a screw into a new hole, scrape it against the soap bar so that there is a small accumulation of the soap onto the threads. Twist the screw in as normal, but just before the head contacts the surface blow off any remaining soap accumulation. Repeat for all of the other scres that are installed.

all the best,

R

 

[Wyliee]

Hey Rod,

You are a fountain of knowledge!!

I cannot help but echo what R has said here.  It is a small step that can make a big difference.  The same applies to tuner screws. 

Use soap! 

-Eric.

 

[Superbeast520]

I agree, 100% eric had mentioned this right before I had assembled mine, and what a great tip, I actually used wax and I did it to every single screw I put on, I had no problems with my tuning peg screws, or anywhere else, and at the time I was reading about alot of guy's breaking them off, so I agree and feel this one as probably the most important tip of all.  :icon_thumright:

 

[Alfang]

I would agree with Beast here, I would recommend wax over soap, wax is more inert than soap,  Soap over time will rot the wood in the hole, I know this because i used to use soap all the time, it might take 5-10 years to rot the wood, and thus loosen the grip on the screw.

John

 

[SirThomas]

are there any particular types of wax to use or to avoid? 

 

[Alfang]

I use clear pure plain wax, obtained from craft stores, you know, those places where women go to by beads and scrapbook stuff?

candle wax would probably be ok, but they add a lot of chemicals in some candles, colors and scents.

John

 

[SirThomas]

if I already have my neck bolts installed, should I even bother with undoing them to wax them and then reinstall?  if lubrication is the only issue, I'd just as soon leave them the way they are, they feel good and tight while not being over-torqued...I used a good hand driver properly sized for the bolts for minimal slippage.  I did hear some "creaking" on the turns but went very slowly to let the wood adjust for the bolt entry.  the neck feels rock solid in the pocket.  these guitars make me horny.

 

[Alfang]

No need to mess with it, the soap or wax is only for the first time screwing, so to speak.

 

[SSSJazz]

Would candles made from 100% beeswax be OK?  :dontknow:   Seems like an au natural material to me... plus, I have them on-hand.  :icon_smile:


Gotta love the "beeswax" entry on Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beeswax

The physical characteristics has a chemical compound that's a mile long!   :laughing11:

 

[selowitch]

I really like the way the screws for the Warmoth rear cavity rout covers have metal threaded holes. I assume the purpose of this is to allow multiple screwings and unscrewings without wearing away the wood surrounding the screw. Would it make sense to use this technique elsewhere on the instrument, such as the pickguard, neck joint, or bridge?

 

[SkuttleFunk]

when did Warmoth start adding threaded inserts to their control cavities? all the bodies I've ever purchased have been simple wood screws, and I purchased/added the inserts.

all the best,

R

 

[Volitions Advocate]

Check out MidiRose's guitar building site for his solution to the control cavities.  hes a smart guy

http://www.exit45.com/ttnp/MagneticCovers

 

[Wyliee]

when did Warmoth start adding threaded inserts to their control cavities? all the bodies I've ever purchased have been simple wood screws, and I purchased/added the inserts.

all the best,

R

Hi R,

This is done on the Gecko basses.

-Eric.

 

[SkuttleFunk]

a-ha!
thanks Eric, I didn't catch this was with respect to a Gecko.

all the best,

R

 

[selowitch]

Yes, sorry, my bad --- I had forgotten to mention the fact that I was referring to the Gecko line. Anyway, I think the metal inserts are definitely worth doing, although in my case I'm just a consumer/player and would entrust this task to my friendly neighborhood luthier.

Roosevelt Walker, Jr.'s magnetic covers idea is really neat-o! An elegant concept.  :hello2:

I wonder if this creates a risk for electromagnetic interference, though.

 

[shagga]

hey guys,

i have one question regarding this procedure of installing a neck into a body:
should i pre-drill thin holes into the neck's back before putting in the neck screws?
(or will this already be done by the warmoth guys??)

or is the usage of soap or (better) wax enough and i can just screw them in?

 

[SkuttleFunk]

you definitely need to use pilot holes when attaching a neck. most Warmoth necks now come with these holes already drilled

all the best,

R

 

[shagga]

Thank for the answer m8!

I was thinking if it would be a good idea to also put some glue into the neck pocket and onto the back of the neck, so to "screw-glue" the neck and body together...  :icon_scratch:

would this make any sense? what do you think?

Or are there any setup jobs, for which the neck needs to be disassembled from the body again?

 

[SkuttleFunk]

I can't think of any advantages to gluing the neck and body together like this. if your neck has the trussrod adjustment at the heel and your body does not have a corresponding slot so you can adjust the trussrod with the neck in place, you'll have to either add the slot or (better) leave the neck unglued

personally, I'd opt to not glue the neck in place

all the best,

R