Screws on new Ebony neck won't go in all the way

jond4

Junior Member
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51
I recently got one of the Brazilian ebony necks from the showcase, all was great until I tried mounting it to the body (warmoth body).

The neck screws (from Warmoth) absolutely stopped almost a quarter inch from fully screwed in and no amount of force was getting them any farther, I have no doubt any more that what I was trying was going to break the heads off so I backed them out. Those screws are trash now so I've got a couple days before new ones and some spares arrive.

I did verify the depth is there to fit the length of the screw so there must be a taper to the pilot hole.

But the question is, anyone experience this before?
 
That's a very hard wood, and wood screws want to make their own threads via displacement in a wood that doesn't compress. Usually, you don't need it on neck heel attachment screws, but some wax on the threads may be the thing you need.
 
I found that if you put a neck on a body with a contoured heel you will need deeper pilot holes in the neck since the screws protrude more from the body.
Of course, you need to be careful so you don’t drill too far. A mm or two did the trick for me.
 
Cagey said:
That's a very hard wood, and wood screws want to make their own threads via displacement in a wood that doesn't compress. Usually, you don't need it on neck heel attachment screws, but some wax on the threads may be the thing you need.

Yeah it's definitely very hard, even just holding it compared to my maple necks it's clear there is a big difference in their density. This is actually the only ebony neck I've ever seen in person before :)

I did have it in the back of my mind using something like wax for example to help thread it easier, I do that with a type of grease on my bikes. I will give that a try when I get fresh screws.

An idea that popped in my mind just now, what do you think about working the screws in and out on the neck without being on the body? For example using my drill to screw them in and out / back and forth to develop the threads? Being mindful of the depth of course.
 
Logrinn said:
I found that if you put a neck on a body with a contoured heel you will need deeper pilot holes in the neck since the screws protrude more from the body.
Of course, you need to be careful so you don’t drill too far. A mm or two did the trick for me.

This is a contoured neck pocket on the body, all four screws did this.

I'm going to save drilling the pilot holes larger in the neck heel as a last resort. I'm confident I could, I do have a decent drill press.
 
I'm hesitant to proscribe forcing screws in that kind of wood, as its incompressibility means it's much more likely to split than wear the holes in a controlled manner. There's a chart here for bits for #8 wood screws, if you wanna check the work.

I've used several of those necks now, but I always install threaded brass inserts with SS machine screws so I haven't had that problem. If you'be got a good drill press and an X/Y cross-vise, you may want to consider doing that yourself. Parts are cheap and It's not tough to do if you're set up for it. I do it as a matter of course on all neck heels.
 
Use wax and screw them in a couple of turns and back out a turn or so and continue. This will help.
 
Try not to force them. I probably would just drill the hole slightly deeper. Just slightly deeper be careful. I have learned that if something is not working to walk away do a little research. Its when you get into a rush or try to force something you may end up with a disaster. Good luck give us an update how it all works out. My last warmoth build I did notice some of the bridge holes were just slightly to big so you never know.
 
Cagey said:
I'm hesitant to proscribe forcing screws in that kind of wood, as its incompressibility means it's much more likely to split than wear the holes in a controlled manner. There's a chart here for bits for #8 wood screws, if you wanna check the work.

I've used several of those necks now, but I always install threaded brass inserts with SS machine screws so I haven't had that problem. If you'be got a good drill press and an X/Y cross-vise, you may want to consider doing that yourself. Parts are cheap and It's not tough to do if you're set up for it. I do it as a matter of course on all neck heels.

I have noticed on another thread you mentioning using those threaded inserts, could you tell me more about that?

My Dad does have a larger drill press than mine which has the x/y vice, it wouldn't be a problem for me to drive over and use that.
 
If you've already got screws almost the whole way in and you're sure the hole is deep enough then some wax should do the job.
 
Cagey said:
I don't know if this is the thread you saw, but here's some more discussion of the things, with pics. If you have more questions, feel free to ask.

I had not seen that thread, just another one where it was mentioned you did that. Thank you for linking me to that!

So, if I'm correct from the other link to the boltdepot (which is great, I didn't know about them) The neck screws are just regular #8 wood screws, right?
 
Yep. The standard is a #8 x 1 3/4" countersunk phillips oval head woodscrew. If you have a countoured heel, two of those screws need to be 1 1/2" instead of 1 3/4", lest you drive them into the fretboard and wreck your day.
 
Cagey said:
Yep. The standard is a #8 x 1 3/4" countersunk phillips oval head woodscrew. If you have a countoured heel, two of those screws need to be 1 1/2" instead of 1 3/4", lest you drive them into the fretboard and wreck your day.

Thanks Cagey, I sincerely appreciate your help :)

and every one else here too of course :)
 
Cagey installed the threaded inserts in my Warmoth Strat neck 5 or so years ago and since then, I won't build a guitar without them.
 
Street Avenger said:
Cagey installed the threaded inserts in my Warmoth Strat neck 5 or so years ago and since then, I won't build a guitar without them.

I looked over the thread where he details the install of those and I'm definitely going to incorporate that. I probably won't just yet for this neck unless it goes south for some reason but certainly on the next build.

This one is my main guitar and I'm changing from a wolfgang neck to a standard slim profile, but either way I have to have it back in working order in two weeks for a gig.

( I have other guitars but the warmoth is the best one and what I want to use :) )
 
Somehow bike grease doesn't sound like the right thing.  I've used bees wax and it always works.
 
Beeswax is the stuff to use. My concern has always been that anything else runs the risk of deteriorating the wood.
 
Rick said:
Somehow bike grease doesn't sound like the right thing.  I've used bees wax and it always works.

I didn't mean use grease on the guitar, I was just stating that's also a common technique for bike assembly, road bikes, mtn bikes. The expensive ones made of carbon, it's because you have to tighten nuts to specific torque settings and greasing the threads slightly makes that much easier.

What I'm planning to do today is swing by lowe's and get new #8 phillips oval head screws and straight pilot hole the neck heel.
 
Be a  good excuse to buy some drill bit depth-stop collars while you're at it. Hate to drill through the fretboard. I use tape markers in a pinch. Just be sure to use something. The price of failure is high.
 
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