GG1
Newbie
- Messages
- 11
Hello all,
I received my first Warmoth neck and body yesterday, and got right to work assembling it.
I should say thanks to everyone here, I haven't posted much but I have been reading the forum for a while, and reading/learning from the folks here made me a lot more comfortable making my first order.
I've been doing maintenance on my own guitars for a while, but this is my first complete partscaster assembly.
Here are the specs from Warmoth:
Body:
Model: Hollow Thinline
Orientation: Right handed
F-Holes: 1
Scale: 25-1/2"
Wood: Flame Maple on Swamp Ash
Rout: Standard Tele® Top Rout
Pickup Rout: Tele® (Neck), None (Middle), Tele® (Bridge)
Controls: None
Bridge: Tele® Bridge
Jack Rout: 7/8" (22mm) Side Jack Hole
Neck Pocket: Tele® Shape
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Binding: Natural Masked Accent
Top Finish: Transparent Turquoise
Back Finish: Transparent Turquoise
Finish Type: Gloss Finish
Neck:
Style: Telecaster®
Construction: Vintage/Modern Construction
Orientation: Right Handed
Neck Wood: Roasted Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Roasted Maple
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Back Shape: Standard thin
Fret Size: SS6105 (Stainless)
Tuner Ream: Planet Waves(13/32")
Radius: 10-16" Compound
Scale: 25-1/2"
Fret #: 22
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ XL - Standard Nut
Inlays: Black Face Dots
Side Dots: Black Side Dots
Finish: No Finish
Other Specs:
Bridge: Gotoh "In tune" - I like this bridge because it has the cutaway on the sides above the pickup. The sides of the bridge always annoy me on the traditional tele bridge plates.
Tuners: Hipshot Open-Gear locking (satin chrome)
Electronics: Lace Sensor T150 set - I went with a 4-way wiring kit, which lets you run both pickups in series as well.
Build Log:
I received the parts yesterday, and I was thinking about making a "out-of-the box" thread but decided to just go ahead and assemble everything since all my parts had already arrived. The body is really beautiful in-person. In photos it is more blue, but in-person it definitely looks more teal in color, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
I debated between the transparent turquoise and the turquoise dye for a while. It was extremely hard to find a photo of the transparent turquoise color on a figured maple top. The only photo I could really find was the one from the Warmoth finishes PDF, but it was still hard to tell how it would look in-person.
There were plenty of photos with turquoise dye on flamed maple, so I almost went with that. I liked the look of the turquoise dye, but in many photos it had more of a "burst" of blue or black around the edges. It looked cool, but I really wanted a uniform color across the whole top.
In the end I ended up rolling the dice and going with transparent turquoise, and I couldn't be happier with the color.
I was also a little worried about ordering the flame top, since there weren't any thinline flame tops in the unique-choice section when I ordered. I guess the thinline top is a little thicker at 1/4in. instead of 1/8in. So even though there were unique choice lam tops for the standard tele, there weren't any for the thinline.
I wasn't expecting to get such a nice top on this, I had already tempered my expectations since I assumed a thicker top meant it would be a little lower-grade flame, but again I was very pleasantly surprised. The top is excellent, and there is definitely a nice chatoyance in the flame.
My only semi-concern with the body was the paint around the edges of the f-hole. In some cases, it seems like there are spots where the color didn't totally cover the wood? It is for sure not just polishing compound, it seems like there is color missing. Hopefully the clear coat is still intact enough there and it's just missing color coat. I tried to check but I really don't want to pick/scrape at it too much lest the color on the front of the guitar start flaking off.
Has anyone experienced that before? If I end up getting a fret level from my local luthier I plan on having them check that out too...
Assembly went pretty smoothly, my least favorite part was installing the string ferrules. I tried the soldering iron trick, which absolutely did not work at all for me. I couldn't tell if the iron was too hot or not hot enough, and pressing in the ferrule with the iron felt like I was heating up the body way too much. After getting one ferrule inserted with the soldering iron method I switched to just hammering them in, which was harrowing but seemed to work without any finish chips or wood cracks. I just used a thick towel to soften the hammer blow to make sure I wasn't denting the finish. Next time I think I'll just find or borrow a drill press so I can do it the right way.
The other thing I should have done was check/test all my parts prior to assembly. My warmoth parts were the last to arrive, so most of the stuff got unboxed for the first time yesterday. The brand new Lace sensor pickups had an issue with the "Lace sensor" lettering on the bridge pickup chipping off which is kind of visible in the bridge close up. The neck pickup is also a little too thick top-to-bottom, and the base of the pickup seemed slightly mis-aligned to the pickup. I had to tape off the neck pickup and carefully file off some of the base plate so that it would fit into the cavity.
I found some cool "hi-fi" knobs that fit on a 1/4in solid shaft pot, so I used those for both pots. I also ordered some teal-colored knobs, which I was thinking of using instead. (There's a picture of one included) Any opinions on those? I can't decide if there would be too much teal-color if I replace the knobs with the colored ones.
Conclusion:
Overall I'm very happy with the build, other than the minor finish issue around the f-hole, which I hope just stays the way it is and doesn't expand to the top of the guitar.
Thanks again to everyone on the forum, I learned a ton about building guitars in the few months I was waiting for these parts to arrive!
To-Do:
Full guitar
Body close-up
Finish issue?
Which knob color should I go with?
Back of guitar
Back of headstock
I received my first Warmoth neck and body yesterday, and got right to work assembling it.
I should say thanks to everyone here, I haven't posted much but I have been reading the forum for a while, and reading/learning from the folks here made me a lot more comfortable making my first order.
I've been doing maintenance on my own guitars for a while, but this is my first complete partscaster assembly.
Here are the specs from Warmoth:
Body:
Model: Hollow Thinline
Orientation: Right handed
F-Holes: 1
Scale: 25-1/2"
Wood: Flame Maple on Swamp Ash
Rout: Standard Tele® Top Rout
Pickup Rout: Tele® (Neck), None (Middle), Tele® (Bridge)
Controls: None
Bridge: Tele® Bridge
Jack Rout: 7/8" (22mm) Side Jack Hole
Neck Pocket: Tele® Shape
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Binding: Natural Masked Accent
Top Finish: Transparent Turquoise
Back Finish: Transparent Turquoise
Finish Type: Gloss Finish
Neck:
Style: Telecaster®
Construction: Vintage/Modern Construction
Orientation: Right Handed
Neck Wood: Roasted Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Roasted Maple
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Back Shape: Standard thin
Fret Size: SS6105 (Stainless)
Tuner Ream: Planet Waves(13/32")
Radius: 10-16" Compound
Scale: 25-1/2"
Fret #: 22
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ XL - Standard Nut
Inlays: Black Face Dots
Side Dots: Black Side Dots
Finish: No Finish
Other Specs:
Bridge: Gotoh "In tune" - I like this bridge because it has the cutaway on the sides above the pickup. The sides of the bridge always annoy me on the traditional tele bridge plates.
Tuners: Hipshot Open-Gear locking (satin chrome)
Electronics: Lace Sensor T150 set - I went with a 4-way wiring kit, which lets you run both pickups in series as well.
Build Log:
I received the parts yesterday, and I was thinking about making a "out-of-the box" thread but decided to just go ahead and assemble everything since all my parts had already arrived. The body is really beautiful in-person. In photos it is more blue, but in-person it definitely looks more teal in color, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
I debated between the transparent turquoise and the turquoise dye for a while. It was extremely hard to find a photo of the transparent turquoise color on a figured maple top. The only photo I could really find was the one from the Warmoth finishes PDF, but it was still hard to tell how it would look in-person.
There were plenty of photos with turquoise dye on flamed maple, so I almost went with that. I liked the look of the turquoise dye, but in many photos it had more of a "burst" of blue or black around the edges. It looked cool, but I really wanted a uniform color across the whole top.
In the end I ended up rolling the dice and going with transparent turquoise, and I couldn't be happier with the color.
I was also a little worried about ordering the flame top, since there weren't any thinline flame tops in the unique-choice section when I ordered. I guess the thinline top is a little thicker at 1/4in. instead of 1/8in. So even though there were unique choice lam tops for the standard tele, there weren't any for the thinline.
I wasn't expecting to get such a nice top on this, I had already tempered my expectations since I assumed a thicker top meant it would be a little lower-grade flame, but again I was very pleasantly surprised. The top is excellent, and there is definitely a nice chatoyance in the flame.
My only semi-concern with the body was the paint around the edges of the f-hole. In some cases, it seems like there are spots where the color didn't totally cover the wood? It is for sure not just polishing compound, it seems like there is color missing. Hopefully the clear coat is still intact enough there and it's just missing color coat. I tried to check but I really don't want to pick/scrape at it too much lest the color on the front of the guitar start flaking off.
Has anyone experienced that before? If I end up getting a fret level from my local luthier I plan on having them check that out too...
Assembly went pretty smoothly, my least favorite part was installing the string ferrules. I tried the soldering iron trick, which absolutely did not work at all for me. I couldn't tell if the iron was too hot or not hot enough, and pressing in the ferrule with the iron felt like I was heating up the body way too much. After getting one ferrule inserted with the soldering iron method I switched to just hammering them in, which was harrowing but seemed to work without any finish chips or wood cracks. I just used a thick towel to soften the hammer blow to make sure I wasn't denting the finish. Next time I think I'll just find or borrow a drill press so I can do it the right way.
The other thing I should have done was check/test all my parts prior to assembly. My warmoth parts were the last to arrive, so most of the stuff got unboxed for the first time yesterday. The brand new Lace sensor pickups had an issue with the "Lace sensor" lettering on the bridge pickup chipping off which is kind of visible in the bridge close up. The neck pickup is also a little too thick top-to-bottom, and the base of the pickup seemed slightly mis-aligned to the pickup. I had to tape off the neck pickup and carefully file off some of the base plate so that it would fit into the cavity.
I found some cool "hi-fi" knobs that fit on a 1/4in solid shaft pot, so I used those for both pots. I also ordered some teal-colored knobs, which I was thinking of using instead. (There's a picture of one included) Any opinions on those? I can't decide if there would be too much teal-color if I replace the knobs with the colored ones.
Conclusion:
Overall I'm very happy with the build, other than the minor finish issue around the f-hole, which I hope just stays the way it is and doesn't expand to the top of the guitar.
Thanks again to everyone on the forum, I learned a ton about building guitars in the few months I was waiting for these parts to arrive!
To-Do:
- Decide if I need a string tree (tuners are staggered) and install if so
- Install the strap buttons (really should have done this before I put the neck on, it will be awkward to drill the holes now
- Bridge might get replaced with a "chopped"/half bridge I also have. If so I'd need to drill out and mount the bridge pickup directly to the cavity. I was thinking of maybe doing using some threaded inserts for this.
- Install the Warmoth sticker!
Full guitar

Body close-up

Finish issue?

Which knob color should I go with?

Back of guitar

Back of headstock
