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How much weight should paint add?

I've weighed Warmoth bodies when received, with paint, and compared to the listed weights for the unfinished bodies I ordered. I can look up the exact figures another time, if anyone wants, but to the best of my recollection the paint (with clearcoat) will add about 3-4 oz to a strat body. If you're having any routing done that will take off a non-trivial amount of wood (e.g., a universal pickup route, a recessed Floyd trem route), that will reduce weight a bit, but not all that much--maybe by an ounce or two?

Picture a typical strat body, at about 4 lbs, and then picture 1/4 of it to represent one lb. The finish you add will be nowhere near that heavy, nor will routing options remove anywhere near that much wood. (Chambering can, though. I think I read someplace that Warmoth's strat chambering removes about 25% of the original body weight.)

FWIW, I agree that the weight you received shouldn't be considered light weight, particularly with respect to an upcharge. I'd be disappointed with that, and it's what always kept me from ordering custom bodies. Weight is important to me so I stick to the showcase. I know from poring over so countless listings that a lot of the rules of thumb don't amount to much. For example, roasted and/or chambered bodies can still be relatively heavy (granted, not as much as without the roasting or chambering).

There's just too much variation in density within any type of wood to make many generalizations, even about what types of wood are usually on the light or heavy side--save for something like paulownia, which is very light, or maple, which is very heavy. But these are just a couple of extremes, most of the woods that most of us have in our solid-body guitars fall someplace in between and are highly variable. There may be a small difference between, say, ash and alder, on average, but the variation within each kind is much larger than their small average difference. Assuming that a randomly chosen piece of either will be lighter (or heavier) than a randomly chosen piece of the other will barely beat 50% odds, it's nowhere near 100% certain.

I've bought maybe a half dozen Warmoth bodies, all strat style, and the two lightest (less than 3 lbs, prior to finishing) were both chambered alder on alder. I also bought an "extra light roasted" one (swamp ash I think) that was just over 3 lbs. The lightest I recall seeing in the showcase was 2.5 lbs, but of course they've produced a *lot* more than I've viewed so I don't know what's the lightest ever or how common these sub-3 lb bodies are. Light ones definitely do come up, if you have the patience to wait for them. Of course, that wait might be a lot longer for a less popular body style, I assume they make a lot more strat and tele style bodies than others.
 
Paying extra for lightweight and getting something over 4lbs is disappointing. I was about to get a dinkycaster too and pay for something lightweight, but maybe I'll wait to see if they offer chambering one day. My favorite strat body is a little under 3lb and is a joy to pick up and play.
 
Acrylic, with clearcoats (polished)... yer typically looking at between 1-2 pounds for the body paint job. [those numbers from when i ran a custom shop more than a decade ago]
First sorry to hear this one came in heavier than you thought it would.

I agree with rockandroller. I must admit I never thought of this before and didn't think to weigh a guitar before and after spraying. But a cured finish is definitely a solid material added to the guitar. It prompted me to look at some notes and some measurements.

I have nitro lacquer that weighs about 80% of its volume. Meaning 1 fluid ounce weighs ~.8oz subtracting out the weight of the empty container.

I have notes from a few guitars I sprayed with what turned out to be pretty thin nitro coats, but I didn't separate by neck and body. Appears the bodies needed between 25 and 50(!) ounces of lacquer - one was a burst I started light and kept darkening - not counting thinner and other solvents I added. The lacquer itself also has integral solvents which gas off.

A wild guess I'll say only half the sprayed lacquer actually ended up on the body accounting for spraying off the edge, evaporating, sanding between coats, or being sucked away by the swirling winds of my backyard :LOL: Even so there'd be 12 ounces of lacquer on the body weighing about 10 oz - less than 3/4 of a pound. Acrylics and metallics may be heavier too.

Another variable like the relativity point its possible requesting one piece might mean a much more limited stock to select the lightest from.
 
I suppose you could get 10 or 12 oz of finish onto a guitar body, but that would be a mighty thick finish! It's probably too difficult to estimate based on materials used, rather than pre/post weighing of the body itself.

I checked some figures I recorded on some Warmoth orders, before vs. after painting. Here are the most useful and relevant figures.

Strat body, Warmoth listing: 2 lbs 15 oz. After routing, studs installed (OFR), and painting (candy tangerine + gloss clear), it weighed 3 lbs 2 oz. I've weight OFR studs + inserts, they're about 0.2 oz, pretty negligible. I've also ordered a body from the showcase that was already painted, all that was done was routing (going from SSS to universal + recessed Floyd route). That routing work reduced the original weight by 4 oz (and the original weights of both bodies were within a couple of ounces, so it's a fair comparison in terms of removing the same amount of wood of the same density). So the original 2 lbs 15 oz would have been reduced to about 2 lbs 11 oz with routing, and the increase to 3 lbs 2 oz means the finish added about 7 oz.

Another body was listed as 2 lbs 12 oz. The routing was similar (from SSS in showcase to universal, plus trem routing for Gotoh 510 trem). Paint was ice blue metallic + satin clear. Final weight, again with studs installed, was 2 lbs 15 oz. Assuming the routing removed a bit less wood due to the substantially smaller trem routing (let say 3 oz rather than 4 oz), the paint took it from 2 lbs 9 oz to 2 lbs 15 oz, or 6 oz of paint. Perhaps a satin clear weighs a bit less than gloss clear (the layer *seems* thinner, though I don't know for sure), and perhaps some of these weights have been rouned such that accuracy isn't to the nearest oz to begin with. My best estimates, though, are 7 oz for a gloss finish and 6 oz for a satin finish.

That's more than I recalled--I think I estimated 3 or 4 oz the other day--but still a bit less than 10 or 12 oz.

In terms of the OP's weight issue, even if you allow 6 or 7 oz for finishing, it might be debatable whether he received a light body, but it would be a lot harder to argue that it was extra light.

Here's my own rough classification for *finished* strat bodies:

<3.5 lbs = extra light
3.5 to 4 lbs = light
4 to 4.5 lbs = average
4.5+ lbs = heavy

Obviously I'm not speaking for how Warmoth does or necessarily should use these terms, this is based on viewing hundreds of their listings and forming my own impressions.
 
That's great info ruscio. Direct before and after is much better than my attempts to extrapolate..next time I spray a body I'll weigh it before and after. I remember once using 8 13oz reranch aerosol cans just to get a paper thin nitro finish I kept sanding through. There must be a lot more waste with them than a pro spray setup.
 
My telly body arrived today.

It was listed at 3.88 lbs in the showcase and has that number still written in the neck pocket.

It came finished in spectra blue, gloss, as ordered and weights 2003g which I rounded to 2kg.

3.88 lbs is ca. 1,76kg, which means the difference between painted and unpainted, ergo the weight of the filler, paint and clear coat is 0,24kg or 240g, which is roughly 8.5 oz.

I gotta say, I am a bit surprised, but one could argue that metallic paint is, by nature, a bit heavier. Because it's metal! Heavy Metal🤘
 
My telly body arrived today.

It was listed at 3.88 lbs in the showcase and has that number still written in the neck pocket.

It came finished in spectra blue, gloss, as ordered and weights 2003g which I rounded to 2kg.

3.88 lbs is ca. 1,76kg, which means the difference between painted and unpainted, ergo the weight of the filler, paint and clear coat is 0,24kg or 240g, which is roughly 8.5 oz.

I gotta say, I am a bit surprised, but one could argue that metallic paint is, by nature, a bit heavier. Because it's metal! Heavy Metal🤘
Thanks very much for this info, it’s great to have a direct before-after comparison.

The scientist in me wonders what the difference would have been if the same scale was used at both times. But the practical part of me wonders whether anybody really cares that much about maybe a few ounces?
 
But the practical part of me wonders whether anybody really cares that much about maybe a few ounces?

The Reverb community would like to have a word ;)

I've had people needle me or try to haggle over less tangible more trivial stuff than that. Sometimes it's they heard a Strat neck must be a certain thickness or a Tele must be under 7 lbs or something like that. They're nervous about buying something that isn't "right" or hard to move later on. more than whether it plays and sounds good.

But yes I agree with you..somewhere maybe here I read a test where experienced players couldn't tell the difference in neck thickness of less than 1/32". Which on paper if you told me a neck .810" vs .840" at the first fret I'd think oh that would be so noticeable but maybe not. I know the specs of mine so I can't do a real blind test.
 
And there's the princess-and-the-pea mentality of a certain other guitar forum where people insist that there's a noticeable difference in anything that has a variance greater than ±0.00004
 
And there's the princess-and-the-pea mentality of a certain other guitar forum where people insist that there's a noticeable difference in anything that has a variance greater than ±0.00004
Yeah there's a few other forums I'll research or read stuff on because there's knowledgeable people, but I'd never try to engage there. My favorite nugget - recently I learned that all Stratocasters are made wrong because the contours aren't ergonomic and the upper horn is too long so they hang wrong on a strap :unsure:
Don't tell the KNS!
 
The scientist in me wonders what the difference would have been if the same scale was used at both times. But the practical part of me wonders whether anybody really cares that much about maybe a few ounces?
True, the scientist in me would have insisted to use the same, perfectly calibrated scale with (at least!) milligram accuracy. But that scientist would have also measured wood moisture and taken that into the equation.

But that scientist was shushed by the friendly but pragmatic carpenter, assuring him in a deep voice that it won't matter and everythings gonna be fine.
 
Yeah there's a few other forums I'll research or read stuff on because there's knowledgeable people, but I'd never try to engage there. My favorite nugget - recently I learned that all Stratocasters are made wrong because the contours aren't ergonomic and the upper horn is too long so they hang wrong on a strap :unsure:
Don't tell the KNS!
Was there a counter-example of an ergonomic, right-hanging guitar shape mentioned?
 
A very popular single cutaway shape. That's all I'm sayin' :cool:
🤨
Single cutaway.... 🤔
Single cutaway?....
Ah! 🤦‍♂️ of course! ☝️😉
Iceman!

No, just kidding. But I just noticed there are quite a few: Could be Telecaster, could be Les Paul, could be Axis...
 
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