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Hey Hannaugh! Design me a Telecaster!

StogiePatriot said:
Alfang said:
I just don't know a better way to state that style.
festive
:icon_jokercolor:

Hehe! Good job!

KingOfTheHill.jpb


It's not obsolete - it's collectible!
 
i know this was back a few pages but copper wouldn't make sutable hardware. though steel can be copper plated and those schaller parts look nice if you can get a source for them. on the other hand bell bronze (copper mixed with tin if i remember right) would make excellent hardware and if it's not available already i could easily manufacture bridge parts from it and if the price was right i could make tuner shafts knobs and bushings, even housings but i would want the gears from an existing set. the worm gear would be extremely annoying to make on my lathe, gears in general are very time consuming to do manually.
 
Dan0 I tend to agree - you can sent them off to be electroplated using a particular thick layer & lacquered once they're home...  www.advancedplating.com in Nashvegas (Nashville, TN) was featured on an automotive show for their copper plating, but any local plating shop will be able to copper plate as it's a base for the nickle or chrome plating for many metals.
 
Dan0 said:
i know this was back a few pages but copper wouldn't make sutable hardware. though steel can be copper plated and those schaller parts look nice if you can get a source for them. on the other hand bell bronze (copper mixed with tin if i remember right) would make excellent hardware and if it's not available already i could easily manufacture bridge parts from it and if the price was right i could make tuner shafts knobs and bushings, even housings but i would want the gears from an existing set. the worm gear would be extremely annoying to make on my lathe, gears in general are very time consuming to do manually.

Your ideas intrigue me.  I may have to get back to you about this matter at a later date.  :toothy10:
 
well if you want to try it out i would prefer to start with bridge parts. they are a bit easier. it would be hard to esitmate a price or time for tuner parts until i actually try it. .
 
/Derail

Hannaugh, do you know of a decent way to transfer a graphite drawing onto a guitar and make it UV stable?

I have this half finished drawing...

36625_334360169969424_100001863305039_818391_557053004_n.jpg


And a friend wants something like it on a white tele... but I'm like HOW?!

/End Derail
 
Scan it, scale it to fit, then print it on a sheet of clear laser-printable waterslide decal paper such as this, apply it, then apply several coats of clear lacquer. Finish sand it, buff it out, then sit back and drink beer while you soak up praise.

Or, apply a satin finish lacquer to the body and re-draw the picture directly, then cover that with several more coats of gloss lacquer. Finish sand it, buff it out, then sit back and drink beer while you soak up praise.

Or, ask your buddy why he wants a drawing of a tentacled beast skull-fuking a dead bird embossed on his guitar, then sit back and drink beer while you laugh your ass off at his pitiful and embarrassing explanations.

One of those ought to work.
 
You could find someone who does laser etching and have it done that way as well.  It's not too hard to find a place that will do it these days.  Then just do a gloss finish over it.  That's how this one was done:

PICT0090.jpg
 
Now that's a fascinating finish. I've never seen that before. You could do all sorts of nifty things that way.
 
Cagey said:
Scan it, scale it to fit, then print it on a sheet of clear laser-printable waterslide decal paper such as this, apply it, then apply several coats of clear lacquer. Finish sand it, buff it out, then sit back and drink beer while you soak up praise.

Or, apply a satin finish lacquer to the body and re-draw the picture directly, then cover that with several more coats of gloss lacquer. Finish sand it, buff it out, then sit back and drink beer while you soak up praise.

Or, ask your buddy why he wants a drawing of a tentacled beast skull-fuking a dead bird embossed on his guitar, then sit back and drink beer while you laugh your ass off at his pitiful and embarrassing explanations.

One of those ought to work.

Put a coat or two of shellac sealer on before the lacquer.  The solvent in the lacquer will dissolve the laser printer ink.  There is a reason I know this.  I like that laser etch paisley.  Crap, I have enough things to get done.
Patrick

 
You're thinking of inkjet prints. Laser printers don't use ink. It's toner, which is micro-fine plastic powder that's heat-bonded to the print medium. It doesn't dissolve or run or fade. It's a fundamental requirement of the technology, since it relies on static electricity to form the image on the print drum. Ink wouldn't work.
 
We have had this argument before Cagey.  The solvents in the lacquer dissolve the laser toner.  Try it, don't believe me.  Or, look it up in the forum with the search function.  It does dissolve.  Print out a page with, "If this doesn't dissolve, I am not wrong." and then paint lacquer over it with a brush.

The flaw in your logic is that because it doesn't use solvents in the printing technology, it is not susceptible to solvents.  Not so.
Patrick

 
Ok.

If_This_Doesnt_Dissove.JPG

I have to admit, though, that while you can't see it because of the over-exposure, there's a slight streaking of the type. Also, that's with pure acetone, not thinned lacquer. So, I'd say we're both right. You can dissolve toner if you work at it hard enough, but it's probably not going to be an issue shooting lacquer over a decal. I've not done it yet myself, but I have seen it done by others.

 
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