Fretboard Radius and Tremolo String Radius

[Zaman]

Often times when you lower the action real low, the radius of the fretboard causes the middle strings to buzz. You end up with a conflict between the bridge's string radius and the fretboard radius. I've read that the Floyd Rose has a 10" string radius. So would getting a neck with a straight 10" radius fretboard be a good idea since you could get low action with uniformity between the strings?

Thanks.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

That sounds logical, but because the width of the strings at the bridge is wider than at the nut, the string path will not follow the same straight radius.  I believe there are saddle shims available for different radii for Floyds.  IMO, the best solution would be a compound radius with an even flatter bridge radius.  The even flatter bridge radius would continue the intended radius after the flatter fretboard end.  The benefit is no fretting out when bending, a comfortable rounder chording radius towards the nut, and a gradually flatening radius as you move up the neck for leads and bending.

 

[Dan025]

i was gonna say something similar but necks have had a constant radius for many decades so maybe you just like your strings a little too low, but yes a proper compound radius and matched bridge radius will help. for the warmoth you are looking for about 18.5" at the bridge and if you started with a 10" floyd you will need to shim the outer E strings a mere .020" to .025" and the B and A about .010" i didn't take the time for precise math but can if you need the numbers.

 

[tfarny]

You probably are adjusting your middle strings too low then. A compound radius 10-16 with a 10" radius bridge would cause the opposite problem of high middle strings on the upper frets, though in practice I doubt it matters too much. On a TOM bridge you file the middle saddles down to get about 18" radius, the difference is almost microscopic though. I did it on mine, it was good but didn't really transform the guitar's action or feel.
So, yes to keep it simple you can request a 10" straight neck radius, or you can find a way to get your Floyd to an 18" radius. Or you can not worry about it. Lots of guys on here have compound necks and Floyds, and it doesn't seem to be a major issue one way or another.

 

[Dan025]

some floyds are a 14" radius. i cant remember which brand though

 

[Zaman]

I actually prefer straight radii. I'm not a big fan of compound radii since I do lead playing on the entire neck, not just on 12 to 22/24. I get my guitars set up by Rusty Cooley's guitar tech and have him set the action the same as Rusty's guitars are. Since Rusty let me play his personal signature Dean prototype, I got spoiled by ultra-low action that doesn't buzz. Somehow they managed it on his signature Dean so I've been trying to get the same low action without the loss in string resonation.

You probably are adjusting your middle strings too low then. A compound radius 10-16 with a 10" radius bridge would cause the opposite problem of high middle strings on the upper frets, though in practice I doubt it matters too much. On a TOM bridge you file the middle saddles down to get about 18" radius, the difference is almost microscopic though. I did it on mine, it was good but didn't really transform the guitar's action or feel.
So, yes to keep it simple you can request a 10" straight neck radius, or you can find a way to get your Floyd to an 18" radius. Or you can not worry about it. Lots of guys on here have compound necks and Floyds, and it doesn't seem to be a major issue one way or another.

 

[Dan025]

I actually prefer straight radii. I'm not a big fan of compound radii since I do lead playing on the entire neck, not just on 12 to 22/24. I get my guitars set up by Rusty Cooley's guitar tech and have him set the action the same as Rusty's guitars are. Since Rusty let me play his personal signature Dean prototype, I got spoiled by ultra-low action that doesn't buzz. Somehow they managed it on his signature Dean so I've been trying to get the same low action without the loss in string resonation.

the compound radius is not only for comfort at the lower frets and buzz free flatness at the high frets, the string on a guitar are not parallel and will better match a cone than a cylinder. and besides you want to go with a 10" radius and the warmoth compound radius starts at 10" so i dont see the problem.
think about it, if you put a strait edge down the length of a cylinder at a slight diagonal it will only contact in the center, it will not be parallel to the surface, a compound radius forms a cone and allows the string to remain parallel to the fretboard surface despite the taper of the string spacing. this allows you to go super low on the action as long as the frets are leveled following the path of the strings, i dont know about dean and there fret board radius but the best ways to get super low is as flat a radius as you can get and/or a compound radius. you can also use a file or sand paper on a strait-edge and level the frets of any fret board along the path of the string instead of using radius blocks. this will give a less than true cylinder but will not exactly be compound a radius. it will just remove the high spots present in the path of the outer strings, or low spots in the center strings if you have added relief to compensate for the outer strings which sounds like the problem you are having.
you will also need some relief after the leveling but not much, you don't want more string height in the middle of the fretboard than at the high frets. it takes some time, some precision and some trial and error to get'em real low but there is no real secret to it.