OK, so there are a few firsts here. I always like to thinly satin coat my raw woods to avoid body oils from accumulating. Sacrelig, I know, but hey, it's just me. I tried the burninshing thing, but I sand the satin finish down to about 400 to 800 grit, and I like the feel of it there. I also like the color of the raw wood to stay the color it was when I first got it. I like padauk to stay red. or for canary to stay yellow. It's just me. But I'm weird like that.
Anyway, here is a the canary neck that I put on the white Strat with EMGs. After a few coats of satin acrylic (sorry Cagey...
), I put down a gloss layer over the pegface. Then I put on my first ever waterslide. This waterslide was made with an inkjet, not a laser printer. According to the seller of the paper, if you cover the printout with an acrylic clear coat, it protects the inkjet ink from the water when separating the decal from the backing paper. After applying to the pegface, it will need a few more clear coats of gloss to lose the edge of the decal.
So far, so good, but I haven't yet put down any of the clear coats other than the first one. Wish me luck!
Anyway, here is a the canary neck that I put on the white Strat with EMGs. After a few coats of satin acrylic (sorry Cagey...
), I put down a gloss layer over the pegface. Then I put on my first ever waterslide. This waterslide was made with an inkjet, not a laser printer. According to the seller of the paper, if you cover the printout with an acrylic clear coat, it protects the inkjet ink from the water when separating the decal from the backing paper. After applying to the pegface, it will need a few more clear coats of gloss to lose the edge of the decal. So far, so good, but I haven't yet put down any of the clear coats other than the first one. Wish me luck!
