Level sanding and polishing a water-based satin clear coat?

[MajorZ26]

Hi all,

Curious for the community's thoughts on best next step to smooth out a water-based clear coat finish.

Below is an image of an S-style body that I am almost done painting and sealing. I involved my younger kids in the project, so went with Liquitex water-based spray acrylics, which overall worked well. For the clear coat, I used Minwax water-based polycrylic via spray can, in the satin finish. Note the textured/orange peel look after my 2nd round of several light coats. I've read about wet sanding with finer and finer grit sandpaper then buffing to achieve a smooth finish, but wet sanding I have a feeling will not work great with this water-based polycrylic. After the first set of coats I dry-sanded it starting with about ~600 grit paper and then went progressively higher from there (up to about 2000 grit) but the scratches were still very evident, clearing up after i put on many more coats.

I scoured youtube and these forums but couldn't find a tutorial matching exactly what I am doing. For those with more experience in water-based clear coats: how would you smooth out this surface after the final coat, retaining clarity and avoiding visible scratches?

Any advice is much appreciated!!

p.s. the drip is intentional (my son's touch

 

[Spud]

Hi all,

Curious for the community's thoughts on best next step to smooth out a water-based clear coat finish.

Below is an image of an S-style body that I am almost done painting and sealing. I involved my younger kids in the project, so went with Liquitex water-based spray acrylics, which overall worked well. For the clear coat, I used Minwax water-based polycrylic via spray can, in the satin finish. Note the textured/orange peel look after my 2nd round of several light coats. I've read about wet sanding with finer and finer grit sandpaper then buffing to achieve a smooth finish, but wet sanding I have a feeling will not work great with this water-based polycrylic. After the first set of coats I dry-sanded it starting with about ~600 grit paper and then went progressively higher from there (up to about 2000 grit) but the scratches were still very evident, clearing up after i put on many more coats.

I scoured youtube and these forums but couldn't find a tutorial matching exactly what I am doing. For those with more experience in water-based clear coats: how would you smooth out this surface after the final coat, retaining clarity and avoiding visible scratches?

Any advice is much appreciated!!

p.s. the drip is intentional (my son's touch

View attachment 65595

Hit it one more time with a melamine sponge (magic eraser) after it has cured for a few days. Sure it dries fast but doesn't harden up/cure and it can make sanding gummy. I would them get a 1/2 pt of Polycrylic and BRUSH it on. If done correctly, without over working, it will level completely flat. Don't tamp/wipe the brush on the rim after dipping it as it can introduce air and tiny bubbles can result.

 

[Spud]

I sprayed 1.5 cans of Rustoleum clear oil base to seal in the keda dye, then brushed on maybe 8 coats of Polycrylic, sanded, and then two more coats and done. It took a month to really cure hard.

 

[Spud]

Actually did al three that way.

 

[MajorZ26]

View attachment 65596
I sprayed 1.5 cans of Rustoleum clear oil base to seal in the keda dye, then brushed on maybe 8 coats of Polycrylic, sanded, and then two more coats and done. It took a month to really cure hard.

Looks great! Did you need to do any sanding/polishing after the final polycrylic coats?

 

[MajorZ26]

Hit it one more time with a melamine sponge (magic eraser) after it has cured for a few days. Sure it dries fast but doesn't harden up/cure and it can make sanding gummy. I would them get a 1/2 pt of Polycrylic and BRUSH it on. If done correctly, without over working, it will level completely flat. Don't tamp/wipe the brush on the rim after dipping it as it can introduce air and tiny bubbles can result.

Interesting- I’d thought how a melamine sponge might work as a sander. So I basically just rub the cured finish I have with the melamine till the roughness goes away, then dust and brush on the polycrylic?

 

[Spud]

Looks great! Did you need to do any sanding/polishing after the final polycrylic coats?

I did hand buff it with Mequires and then polish wax.

Interesting- I’d thought how a melamine sponge might work as a sander. So I basically just rub the cured finish I have with the melamine till the roughness goes away, then dust and brush on the polycrylic?

The melamine is not too abrasive maybe like 3000 grit? So it will just knock some of the orange peel down. Then build back up with brushing a few coats polycrylic and do it again.

 

[Spud]

I now have to return to painting the house exterior. Good grief!

 

[Spud]

sorry here is the back