First build gut check

[cadred]

I'm working up to my first Warmoth build, a Telecaster Thinline style guitar. So far, my plan is to build it with:

• Warmoth Ash Thinline Body (finished) w/ thinline pick guard
• Warmoth Vintage Modern Roundback neck Maple w/ Maple fingerboard (finished)
• BareKnuckle Yardbird Tele single coil pickups
• Gotoh Modern Tele bridge w/ brass saddles (or similar)
• Schaller Mini Locking Tuners
• Misc - pots, switches, string tree, etc

It's my first time and I think I've done most of my homework, but does anything look amiss?

 

[bagman67]

I don't see  a pickguard.  Not strictly necessary, but you want to consciously decide not to use one, rather than forget it and have to pay for shipping a second time.


Also: 
There's a lot that fits under "Misc" that you might want to list in detail.


Control plate (if this is  a conventional top-rout Tele)
Knobs
pots - specify value
Capacitor - specify value (probably .022muF
Jack and socket - Electrosocket, traditional Tele cup, or square plate?
Switch  - specify 3-way, 4-way, 5-way, wiring plans will dictate
Strap buttons
Neck plate
neck screws


Some like to shield the cavity, others don't see (and more importantly, hear) a difference.

 

[cadred]

Fair enough, I've been considering those details. I am going to go with the thinline style pickguard because I like the look (and it's what the showcase models are designed for).

For controls, I'll probably get most of the parts from Warmoth just for simplicity. I'm probably stick with fairly standard Tele-style controls. I may shield the cavities since these are single coils.

Bare Knuckle sells some special capacitor for like $20, I've considered doing that, but it seems like overkill maybe. So capacitors are still to be determined.


I have also considered doing the 4-way switch mod, but right now I'm leaning against it, just to keep things as simple as possible.

 

[bagman67]

Skip the magical BK capacitor.  Go with the 10 cent part.  People who say they can hear a difference between a ceramic vs. mylar vs. paper-in-oil part are either selling something, or susceptible to ad copy hijinks.


And welcome to the adventure!  This is fun, and can become addictive, for sure.

 

[Cagey]

Sounds like a fun project.

I'd second getting as much as you can from Warmoth. They're not trying to make a living off the peripherals, so there's little reason to shop them. For what you'd save in price, you'd lose in shipping costs. Plus, some of the hardware is actually better sourced from them.

The ambitious shielding tricks some advocate (copper foil, conductive paint, magic dust, etc.)  are mostly ineffective, particularly when using single coil pickups, but it's worth using shielded cable throughout. No sense poking the beehive.

Bagman's right about the caps. Don't waste your money on anything "special". There's no advantage. Use the ceramics. They're perfect for the application.

 

[cadred]

I'll be honest, I'm still waffling on between modern and vintage style bridge. Wilkinson makes an affordable compensated vintage bridge that will have a nice look...

 

[Cagey]

I don't know which Wilkinson you're talking about, but when it comes to Tele bridges, the Gotoh unit is a fine part at the price, and the "vintage" part is essentially crap. There are very good reasons designs have changed over the years, and they're never for cost considerations. Ol' Leo was a great guy, and we all appreciate what he's developed and contributed to the electric guitar world, but he was not only not much of a mechanical engineer, he was a cheapskate. Vintage Fender-style hardware is nothing to emulate or encourage, even if it's gussied up. It'll only cause you grief. I can understand wanting a museum piece to hang on the wall as a conversation starter, but there's little point in building a fake one if you're actually going to play it.

 

[alterbridgefan]

 

[Cagey]

That's Leo's design. They called 'em "ashtrays" for a reason.

Actually, it was the cover they used to call an "ashtray", as that's what it was most often used for. You rarely see them any more, as they were almost universally removed or fell off almost instantly. Even if you didn't smoke, you needed it for band members who did, or to collect small parts, picks, etc.

 

[alterbridgefan]

That's Wilky's design. Compensated, radius adjustable saddles, and cheap as fluck.

As far as tele bridges go, I've got some serious mastery lust going on. I know it's not worth it, and that bridges are really a non-issue on a tele, but damn, do those things look hot!

Maybe on the slide dedicated tikicaster...

 

[Updown]

Contoured neck screws .... If the body has a contoured heel.
Neck Pads ... If you use them, I do on all builds.
Strap Locks.
SS Frets

You said a finish on the maple.
Go the Clear Satin Nitro  :icon_thumright:

.... Just a handy reference book.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Building_and_repair:_Guitar,_electric/How_To_Make_Your_Electric_Guitar_Play_Great!.html

Doesn't matter if you double up on some things.
Then you have a viable excuse for another build.  :icon_biggrin:

Don't forget the pic's  :toothy10:

 

[Jumble Jumble]

I don't see a pickguard.

Dude. First bullet point!

 

[bagman67]

This is what I get for sleeping 4 hours a night when I really need, like, 5.  Or nine, realistically, which will start happening when Junior is about 16.


D'oh!

 

[cadred]

Contoured neck screws .... If the body has a contoured heel.

Probably not going contoured on this build, it just doesn't seen right for the kind of Tele I'm building.

Neck Pads ... If you use them, I do on all builds.

I'm not sure what a "neck pad" is, never heard of them.

You said a finish on the maple.
Go the Clear Satin Nitro  :icon_thumright:

I'm definitely going satin on the neck. I don't want a sticky poly neck.

.... Just a handy reference book.

Thanks for the book recommendation. I've seen one or two of Stew's videos, they're great, so I'll check it out.

Dude. First bullet point!

To be fair, it was buried at the end of a bunch of specs.

Don't forget the pic's  :toothy10:

I will be sure post pics, so everyone can watch me screw up some nice wood  :icon_biggrin:

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I would go with the Stainless frets, they wear less.  Some do not like them, a lot around here do.  It is always about feel, not sound, for the like/dislike.  I don't notice the feel that much, but I do notice the wear.  Or the lack of wear as it turns out.  I disagree with the ceramic caps, I think they are worthless, and would go with any sort of film cap.  Ceramic caps change capacitance when different electrical conditions are applied to them, I don't like them.  Film caps behave, and they cost $0.25 rather than 0.10.  Or not a damn bit of difference in price in the whole scheme of things.  NOS, or Paper in oil, or blah blah, not going to make a difference.  But I splurge the $0.15 for the film caps.
Patrick

 

[Cagey]

Ceramic caps change capacitance when different electrical conditions are applied to them, I don't like them.  Film caps behave, and they cost $0.25 rather than 0.10.  Or not a damn bit of difference in price in the whole scheme of things.  NOS, or Paper in oil, or blah blah, not going to make a difference.  But I splurge the $0.15 for the film caps.

All caps change value in response to electrical and environmental variations. Fortunately, they're not variations you're ever going to see inside a guitar. Were they to occur, the value of your capacitor would be the least of your worries.

But, you're right. Film caps aren't much more expensive, so go for it if it makes you feel better.

 

[cadred]

Thanks for the advice on caps. I've barely considered the actual electronics beyond pups.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

For the price, I don't care.  I understand that a ceramic cap is not going to see much in the way of a static charge in a guitar, but the ceramic ones, really certain types of those as well, vary quite a bit with an applied DC voltage.  I was listening to a podcast from some of the guys that build preamps and digital encoders/unencoders and all of them hate the ceramics due to the easily inducible fluctuations.  For less that the cost of a cig, you can put a standard film cap in.  They don't show DC induced capacitance changes.  No biggie.  If you are a goofball with these things (I tend to be), you can find tropical fish capacitors.  Then you are getting into the dangerous 0.1%-0.05% of the total guitar price, which can be unsettling for some.
Patrick

 

[Updown]

I'm not sure what a "neck pad" is, never heard of them.

This .... http://www.warmoth.com/Neck-Plate-Pad-Black-P834C72.aspx

Now you have heard of them.  :icon_biggrin:

 

[cadred]

The more (I) you know...