dirtycooter
Newbie
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What do you guys think??? :icon_scratch: Its pearl orange and actually all done myself with "spray bombs only" from Menards, Walmart, and Auto Parts.
FINISHED-DONE FINALLY! EVH General Lee super strat
- Thread starter dirtycooter
- Start date
What do you guys think??? :icon_scratch: Its pearl orange and actually all done myself with "spray bombs only" from Menards, Walmart, and Auto Parts.
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom
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tfarny said:
...and Cigarettes.
Wana_make_a_guitar
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I'm more worried about that huge box of eggs on the floor. Wouldn't want to be in the same elevator as you :laughing7:Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
dirtycooter
Newbie
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- 22
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
:laughing7: :laughing7: :laughing7:-so we got some wise guys heh? Lets see what you've done then. Show 'em! :laughing3: :evil4:
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom
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What?
dirtycooter
Newbie
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I didn't stutter-by the way is that your boyfriend in the avatar-you must be proud :headbang1: :laughing8: :laughing8: :laughing8: :doh:
Wana_make_a_guitar
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:tard: heh?
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom
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Sorry, I should've started and ended with the guitar. Nice.
Wana_make_a_guitar
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Indeed, It's cool.Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
DangerousR6
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That's fantastic, now it just needs the Rebel flag.... :headbang1:
DangerousR6
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Blue I think you were reading my mind....... :icon_biggrin:Blue313 said:
Dude are you telling me you did that with spray cans? WOW man I am seriously impressed. My H-D is almost that same color Mirage orange pearl they call it.
I really dig it!!!!! Really spray cans? Nah can't be that smooth? I believe you totally that's not what I mean I am seriously blown away at the results you got. You know something more than I do about spray cans. You should let me in on your secret...
My only suggestion is take some pictures in some better light, maybe outside
So how does it sound when you play this:
Just two good old boys, never meanin' no harm...
Beats all you never saw, been in trouble with the law
Since the day they was born.
Straightenin' the curves, flattenin' the hills...
Someday the mountain might get 'em but the law never will.
Makin' their way, the only way they know how...
That's just a little bit more than the law will allow.
Just two good ol' boys, wouldn't change if they could,
Fightin' the system like two modern-day Robin Hoods...
I really dig it!!!!! Really spray cans? Nah can't be that smooth? I believe you totally that's not what I mean I am seriously blown away at the results you got. You know something more than I do about spray cans. You should let me in on your secret...
My only suggestion is take some pictures in some better light, maybe outside
So how does it sound when you play this:
Just two good old boys, never meanin' no harm...
Beats all you never saw, been in trouble with the law
Since the day they was born.
Straightenin' the curves, flattenin' the hills...
Someday the mountain might get 'em but the law never will.
Makin' their way, the only way they know how...
That's just a little bit more than the law will allow.
Just two good ol' boys, wouldn't change if they could,
Fightin' the system like two modern-day Robin Hoods...
DangerousR6
Mythical Status
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I did my Cherry tele with spray laquer, only wet sanded to 1200 grit, and she's like glass..... :guitarplayer2:
DangerousR6 said:I did my Cherry tele with spray laquer, only wet sanded to 1200 grit, and she's like glass..... :guitarplayer2:
Wow spray can artists. I never ever get those kind of results out of a rattle can. Never tried spraying wood and sanding it, usually I am blasting a water pump with some chevy orange paint or a brake caliper black with some sweet runs all over the place.
dirtycooter
Newbie
- Messages
- 22
Well-here is the spray can secret for those of you in disbelief.
Filled the 1 piece swamp ash grain with Elmers wood filler in the rectangular plastic tubs-filled the crap out of it many times and sanded off over and over again until there was no grain pits left-sanded flush with the wood-its non-toxic and waterbased
this was a long process filling the grain this way and its not what you're supposed to use-but hey-it was cheap and I could apply it indoors watching TV everday before work-then sand it back down the next day-have about 5 solid passes of doing this
Other woods like Alder don't require this mess of grain filling-just ash and mahogany
I built a rotissery from an engine stand and an exhaust pipe-works great since you can just turn the body while shooting it.
I used "KILZ grey kraft coat aerosol primer"-it would dry down and sand just right-all other primers I tested wouldn't work like they should-especially duplicolor-that crap is terrible and stays gummy forever and balls up when you sand it in the sand paper.
Bummer is I cannot find this primer anymore all of a sudden! I think they may have just quit making it-this was bought at walmart.
I built up the coats of primer slowly and sanded them back between coats-almost sanding off completely the first complete coat and progressing more and more until on the 4th or 5th coat I had a solid coat with no grain or other flaws in the wood showing.
This gave me a great foundation for the rest of the finish.
Note -I time 10 minutes between "passes" for everything I do to when building a 'coat". My rule is 4 passes= 1 coat.
I would shoot a coat which would be 4 complete passes on the whole body and let it sit for 5-7 days then sand it back-did this 4-5 times and it took many weeks and most of the primer was sanded back off mind you so it is no where near as thick on the body as you may think it would be.
Next I needed a white base coat for the Pearl orange to sit on top of-this gives the brilliance and trueness to the color.
Luckily I found genuine white nitro cellulose lacquer left over from the 80's in an old old auto parts store in the back room with an inch of dust on the caps! It was VHT brand-they have it on their website if you look for it but I think they no longer make it and they won't let you order more either-I checked. 2 cans were all they had left and bought both at $3 a piece. Just enough to cover a base coat of 4 passes and have some for later projects as a base.
Nitro lacquer is the stuff Gibson and Fender used and dries up harder than hell and quick too. Its on all the old desirable axes although Fender would use acrylic lacquer here and there too and acrylic is compatible with nitro. Just so you know acrylic under nitro works. Other way around is not supposed to work-but it did I think in this case. Due to environmental concerns the only nitro you can really find anymore new production is clear for furniture and wood finishing-they quit making it completely in any colors-its very hard to find nitro lacquer in spray bomb colors today-super rare!
So now I have the primer foundation done.
I shot the following in one complete day
I covered the body in 4 spray passes-each pass about 8-10 minutes apart with the last pass covering the body completely with white nitro.
This set for 30-40 minutes, This gives the White nitro time to skin or "flash over" as they say in paint termonology.
After this 30-40 minutes of waiting for the white to flash over I layed on the Pearl Tangelo over the white in the same manner and let this set for 30-40 minutes. I think this Shimrins Pearls is an acrylic enamel or acrylic lacquer-House of Kolor marketed this Shimrins brand in mini 6 ounce spray bombs for models and "tuner" car interior panel pieces for that Fast and Furious car crap kids are doing today. They are in the model building section and auto sections of walmart-although I think they quit making this too as well as I cannot find anymore of this either now! Is on the website though still.
next after waiting the 30-40 minutes for the color coat to flash over I used 4 passes of Nitro clear Gloss Watco bought at Menards-this is a genuine clear nitro lacquer. I shot these four passes to "lock down" the metallic. Then let the whole thing set 24 hrs.
Every day I would shoot another 4 passes but stopped after the 3rd real coat of clear-waited a week for it to harden a little-wet sanded with 600 grit to get rid of the orange peel that comes from the rough texture of metallic type paints I used for the color coat underneath-this leveled the finish rather well. It was a matte finish now in looks. But I just wiped it down good with wax and silcone remover-tack ragged it-then threw it back on the stand this way and shot more clear over it again like I had been for 4 more days giving me 4 more coats of clear.
This will turn out rough looking at this point- BE PATIENT AND DO NOT EXPECT WHAT IS IN THESE PICS YET AT THIS POINT- but just let it hang for 2-3 months. This one sat a solid 3 months just hanging up in mid air drying and curing-hardening.
Next I took it down after the wait was over-wet sanded the entire body with 2000 grit and a little pink rubber pencil eraser as a block just until "ALL" the light orange peel was gone and it took out 2 "fisheyes" as well that were the only paint flaws I had-I got lucky here- but there is one tiny ass piece of dirt under neath the clear I left and even that I have to point out to people after I tell them to look for it on their own-its on the back lower horn but you can't feel it though-its buried deep-you can still see it though.
Then get some microfiber cloths in the detail section at Walmart and hand rub with "Meguires mirror glaze #7" -took 8 hours to sand and 8 hours to rub out by hand.
BAM-done and what you see here now.
Rules and guidlines for using spray bombs-
1. see the 4 passes=1 coat.
2. Build the primer slow and carefully-very important here to build the FOUNDATION for the paint to sit on-if this is not right the rest of it won't be either-4-5 coats recommended total to really seal the wood and grain up. Sand between coats and use a sanding block on everything you possibly can! Also use appropriate sanding grits through the sanding processes-be careful and think before choosing-finer grits are generally safer option but just are gonna take longer-but it is well worth it.
3. Time everything as I desribed above when you are shooting primer or paints
4. Don't rush things faster-refusing to wait the times specified above and you're gonna have some major problems. :help:
5. Do test pieces about 6" x 6" to see if the paints will lay over each other and be compatible first!
6. Let nitro from spray bombs hang a minimum of 60 days!!!! before trying to polish out on the final finish. Otherwise it will just smear.
hand rubbing is safer than power buffing since its waay harder to burn through the clearcoat-if you do go through to the clearcoat-well-you're gonna have to shoot more clear again and do the "wait" over. :evil4:
7. shoot in 70 dgr-78dgr temps and make sure the "humidity" is less than 75 when shooting.
8. Do not use the last 1/3 to 1/4 of the can-it'll spit all over-change to another one!
9. make sure the cans are clean and dust free and at 70 dgr or a little warmer-at least room temp minimum.
10. when shooting make sure paint is shaken well and continue shaking it while between passes-also have the next can shaken and ready to go since you will be switching to fuller newer cans often.
11. have a very still air environment and clean as possible-I wet the floor down in my garage with water-then ran a salamander heater until I got the temp up to target then shut it off and let the air settle for 10 minutes before wiping the body down to shoot.
12. Avoid silicone contamination-some girlfriends I have had wear silicon hair shine shite in their hair-your paint surface if exposed to this while painting will crater like a mofo-keep her at bay! :doh:
13. Make sure it does not dip down below 50 dgrs if the body is setting in the garage over night drying-it can cause paint to go flat and do wierd shite!
14. Wear a hat and watch your arm hair too-it falls out onto the paint
15. Never lean or be directly over top of the body you are painting! even deoderant from your arm pits will dust off and fall into the paint and f it up!
16. first pass of four passes NEVER covers completely! When doing passes just make sure the 4th last pass covers completely only!
DUST, Little wetter, little bit more wetter, wet as you can get her without runs happening!
17. Avoid really humid weather to paint in-it'll fog up and haze up on you from trapped moisture!!!
18. stick with acrylic lacquer and nitro lacquers only-[mind you duplicolor clear----never use it! it will stay soft forever!]-always clear with Watco or other nitro-its the only thing that wil truelly harden up!
THE MIRROR SHINE SHOWS UP LAST only when all the texture or orange peel is sanded out and polished with a super fine compound!
Yeah-it was all spray bombs-so that is exactly how I did it-any questions??? :icon_scratch:
Filled the 1 piece swamp ash grain with Elmers wood filler in the rectangular plastic tubs-filled the crap out of it many times and sanded off over and over again until there was no grain pits left-sanded flush with the wood-its non-toxic and waterbased
this was a long process filling the grain this way and its not what you're supposed to use-but hey-it was cheap and I could apply it indoors watching TV everday before work-then sand it back down the next day-have about 5 solid passes of doing this
Other woods like Alder don't require this mess of grain filling-just ash and mahogany
I built a rotissery from an engine stand and an exhaust pipe-works great since you can just turn the body while shooting it.
I used "KILZ grey kraft coat aerosol primer"-it would dry down and sand just right-all other primers I tested wouldn't work like they should-especially duplicolor-that crap is terrible and stays gummy forever and balls up when you sand it in the sand paper.
Bummer is I cannot find this primer anymore all of a sudden! I think they may have just quit making it-this was bought at walmart.
I built up the coats of primer slowly and sanded them back between coats-almost sanding off completely the first complete coat and progressing more and more until on the 4th or 5th coat I had a solid coat with no grain or other flaws in the wood showing.
This gave me a great foundation for the rest of the finish.
Note -I time 10 minutes between "passes" for everything I do to when building a 'coat". My rule is 4 passes= 1 coat.
I would shoot a coat which would be 4 complete passes on the whole body and let it sit for 5-7 days then sand it back-did this 4-5 times and it took many weeks and most of the primer was sanded back off mind you so it is no where near as thick on the body as you may think it would be.
Next I needed a white base coat for the Pearl orange to sit on top of-this gives the brilliance and trueness to the color.
Luckily I found genuine white nitro cellulose lacquer left over from the 80's in an old old auto parts store in the back room with an inch of dust on the caps! It was VHT brand-they have it on their website if you look for it but I think they no longer make it and they won't let you order more either-I checked. 2 cans were all they had left and bought both at $3 a piece. Just enough to cover a base coat of 4 passes and have some for later projects as a base.
Nitro lacquer is the stuff Gibson and Fender used and dries up harder than hell and quick too. Its on all the old desirable axes although Fender would use acrylic lacquer here and there too and acrylic is compatible with nitro. Just so you know acrylic under nitro works. Other way around is not supposed to work-but it did I think in this case. Due to environmental concerns the only nitro you can really find anymore new production is clear for furniture and wood finishing-they quit making it completely in any colors-its very hard to find nitro lacquer in spray bomb colors today-super rare!
So now I have the primer foundation done.
I shot the following in one complete day
I covered the body in 4 spray passes-each pass about 8-10 minutes apart with the last pass covering the body completely with white nitro.
This set for 30-40 minutes, This gives the White nitro time to skin or "flash over" as they say in paint termonology.
After this 30-40 minutes of waiting for the white to flash over I layed on the Pearl Tangelo over the white in the same manner and let this set for 30-40 minutes. I think this Shimrins Pearls is an acrylic enamel or acrylic lacquer-House of Kolor marketed this Shimrins brand in mini 6 ounce spray bombs for models and "tuner" car interior panel pieces for that Fast and Furious car crap kids are doing today. They are in the model building section and auto sections of walmart-although I think they quit making this too as well as I cannot find anymore of this either now! Is on the website though still.
next after waiting the 30-40 minutes for the color coat to flash over I used 4 passes of Nitro clear Gloss Watco bought at Menards-this is a genuine clear nitro lacquer. I shot these four passes to "lock down" the metallic. Then let the whole thing set 24 hrs.
Every day I would shoot another 4 passes but stopped after the 3rd real coat of clear-waited a week for it to harden a little-wet sanded with 600 grit to get rid of the orange peel that comes from the rough texture of metallic type paints I used for the color coat underneath-this leveled the finish rather well. It was a matte finish now in looks. But I just wiped it down good with wax and silcone remover-tack ragged it-then threw it back on the stand this way and shot more clear over it again like I had been for 4 more days giving me 4 more coats of clear.
This will turn out rough looking at this point- BE PATIENT AND DO NOT EXPECT WHAT IS IN THESE PICS YET AT THIS POINT- but just let it hang for 2-3 months. This one sat a solid 3 months just hanging up in mid air drying and curing-hardening.
Next I took it down after the wait was over-wet sanded the entire body with 2000 grit and a little pink rubber pencil eraser as a block just until "ALL" the light orange peel was gone and it took out 2 "fisheyes" as well that were the only paint flaws I had-I got lucky here- but there is one tiny ass piece of dirt under neath the clear I left and even that I have to point out to people after I tell them to look for it on their own-its on the back lower horn but you can't feel it though-its buried deep-you can still see it though.
Then get some microfiber cloths in the detail section at Walmart and hand rub with "Meguires mirror glaze #7" -took 8 hours to sand and 8 hours to rub out by hand.
BAM-done and what you see here now.
Rules and guidlines for using spray bombs-
1. see the 4 passes=1 coat.
2. Build the primer slow and carefully-very important here to build the FOUNDATION for the paint to sit on-if this is not right the rest of it won't be either-4-5 coats recommended total to really seal the wood and grain up. Sand between coats and use a sanding block on everything you possibly can! Also use appropriate sanding grits through the sanding processes-be careful and think before choosing-finer grits are generally safer option but just are gonna take longer-but it is well worth it.
3. Time everything as I desribed above when you are shooting primer or paints
4. Don't rush things faster-refusing to wait the times specified above and you're gonna have some major problems. :help:
5. Do test pieces about 6" x 6" to see if the paints will lay over each other and be compatible first!
6. Let nitro from spray bombs hang a minimum of 60 days!!!! before trying to polish out on the final finish. Otherwise it will just smear.
hand rubbing is safer than power buffing since its waay harder to burn through the clearcoat-if you do go through to the clearcoat-well-you're gonna have to shoot more clear again and do the "wait" over. :evil4:
7. shoot in 70 dgr-78dgr temps and make sure the "humidity" is less than 75 when shooting.
8. Do not use the last 1/3 to 1/4 of the can-it'll spit all over-change to another one!
9. make sure the cans are clean and dust free and at 70 dgr or a little warmer-at least room temp minimum.
10. when shooting make sure paint is shaken well and continue shaking it while between passes-also have the next can shaken and ready to go since you will be switching to fuller newer cans often.
11. have a very still air environment and clean as possible-I wet the floor down in my garage with water-then ran a salamander heater until I got the temp up to target then shut it off and let the air settle for 10 minutes before wiping the body down to shoot.
12. Avoid silicone contamination-some girlfriends I have had wear silicon hair shine shite in their hair-your paint surface if exposed to this while painting will crater like a mofo-keep her at bay! :doh:
13. Make sure it does not dip down below 50 dgrs if the body is setting in the garage over night drying-it can cause paint to go flat and do wierd shite!
14. Wear a hat and watch your arm hair too-it falls out onto the paint
15. Never lean or be directly over top of the body you are painting! even deoderant from your arm pits will dust off and fall into the paint and f it up!
16. first pass of four passes NEVER covers completely! When doing passes just make sure the 4th last pass covers completely only!
DUST, Little wetter, little bit more wetter, wet as you can get her without runs happening!
17. Avoid really humid weather to paint in-it'll fog up and haze up on you from trapped moisture!!!
18. stick with acrylic lacquer and nitro lacquers only-[mind you duplicolor clear----never use it! it will stay soft forever!]-always clear with Watco or other nitro-its the only thing that wil truelly harden up!
THE MIRROR SHINE SHOWS UP LAST only when all the texture or orange peel is sanded out and polished with a super fine compound!
Yeah-it was all spray bombs-so that is exactly how I did it-any questions??? :icon_scratch:
dirtycooter
Newbie
- Messages
- 22
By the way-that is a sweet ass cross bread of Telecaster there! :headbang: Nice work man! Rare to see two buckers and a floyd on one of those! :icon_thumright:
Also that bike is cool too-I really like Harley's orange-it a real deep reddish tone in it yet its orange as you can get and "never pale" orange! Love it and actually Harley orange is a bit of a secret recipe for the mixing of the color! :icon_thumright: and I actually thought of going with a Harley logo or an Allis Chalmers logo too-but I went with this instead-I know its corny but hey-those were my favorite things as a kid! Every body has fond memories of that show and this gets people smiling.
hope the tips above help others use spray bombs better as it is confusing and hard to do-of course it is nerve racking as hell too!
then again Warmoth will paint it for you if you want! recommended IF your in a hurry! This was time consuming let me tell you. :tard:
thanks for all the great comments :glasses9:
hows the song go??
"Oooh! I wish I was in dixie!.............in her about a foot!" :laughing7: :laughing3: :laughing11: :laughing8:
I just want the Jessica Simpson version of Daisy to come with the guitar now
:binkybaby:
Also that bike is cool too-I really like Harley's orange-it a real deep reddish tone in it yet its orange as you can get and "never pale" orange! Love it and actually Harley orange is a bit of a secret recipe for the mixing of the color! :icon_thumright: and I actually thought of going with a Harley logo or an Allis Chalmers logo too-but I went with this instead-I know its corny but hey-those were my favorite things as a kid! Every body has fond memories of that show and this gets people smiling.
hope the tips above help others use spray bombs better as it is confusing and hard to do-of course it is nerve racking as hell too!
then again Warmoth will paint it for you if you want! recommended IF your in a hurry! This was time consuming let me tell you. :tard:
thanks for all the great comments :glasses9:
hows the song go??
"Oooh! I wish I was in dixie!.............in her about a foot!" :laughing7: :laughing3: :laughing11: :laughing8:
I just want the Jessica Simpson version of Daisy to come with the guitar now
:binkybaby:
