I recently got my first warmoth guitar, a mahogany soloist body with a ebony/wenge neck. I know warmoth doesn't drill holes for the jackplate or strap buttons or anything like that, but my guitar has already been finished. long story short, how do I drill a hole in my guitar without chipping or flaking the finish?
drilling through a finish
- Thread starter GDBear
- Start date
anorakDan
Hero Member
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- 709
The easy answer is "very carefully."
I think it's a great idea to watch this YouTube series:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqLfllURlo8&NR=1&feature=fvwp
I know there are a lot of parts to it, and it covers a lot more than just your question,, but I think it's invaluable for any do-it-yourselfer putting together a Warmoth guitar.
He'll cover drilling screw holes, as well as provide a lot of other useful advice. Give it a go before you start drilling into anything on your project.
Like many things in life, there's a "common-sense" approach and there's a more careful, considered approach that's almost always better in the long run. Learn to do it right before you make expensive mistakes doing it wrong.
I think it's a great idea to watch this YouTube series:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqLfllURlo8&NR=1&feature=fvwp
I know there are a lot of parts to it, and it covers a lot more than just your question,, but I think it's invaluable for any do-it-yourselfer putting together a Warmoth guitar.
He'll cover drilling screw holes, as well as provide a lot of other useful advice. Give it a go before you start drilling into anything on your project.
Like many things in life, there's a "common-sense" approach and there's a more careful, considered approach that's almost always better in the long run. Learn to do it right before you make expensive mistakes doing it wrong.
bagman67
Epic Member
- Messages
- 9,125
If you're drilling pilot holes for jackplate screws, pickguard screws, that sort of thing - just be cautious. You could lay down a piece of tape over the spot where you plan to drill, and that will help you keep from screwing up the finish. If you're drilling large holes - for pots or switches, for example - use a Forstner bit.
C
Cederick
Guest
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom wrote in another thread about Warmoth doing more drilling for customers
I would gladly pay another few dollars to have holes for straps, trem covers, jackplats and especielly pickguards be drilled proffessionally by Warmoth. I wouldn't pay more than $20 for it, but that seems like a reasonable price...
Also, having the option to make custom holes just where you want would be nice too.
In the builder you could add anything like holes for pots, mini switches, LP switches, 5 way switches and all that stuff and like "drag them" to whatever position you want.
All this would make a build much more fun for the "avarage" hobbyist to get it home, and simply start assembling right away.
I would gladly pay another few dollars to have holes for straps, trem covers, jackplats and especielly pickguards be drilled proffessionally by Warmoth. I wouldn't pay more than $20 for it, but that seems like a reasonable price...
Also, having the option to make custom holes just where you want would be nice too.
In the builder you could add anything like holes for pots, mini switches, LP switches, 5 way switches and all that stuff and like "drag them" to whatever position you want.
All this would make a build much more fun for the "avarage" hobbyist to get it home, and simply start assembling right away.
C
Cederick
Guest
Hbom said:
You could just skip that option and save $20 and do it yourself
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom
Epic Member
- Messages
- 8,318
For the smaller holes, most anything you mount will cover up any chip. After the pilot hole is made, you can hand turn a larger bit to just add a bevel at the depth of the finish.
Everyone has a different skill set and comfort level when it comes to this work. The fact remains, this stuff isn't a kit that just bolts together, even though the neck bolts on. If we've chosen this path, it's because someone doesn't sell what we want, whether it be a certain nut width, neck profile, orientation, pickup route, bridge route, or even a color. A statement as simple as, "all you have to do is __________." For some it's as intimidating as, "all you have to do is cut down a tree, and make a guitar from hand." As I always say, there's no shame in having someone else do the work.
Everyone has a different skill set and comfort level when it comes to this work. The fact remains, this stuff isn't a kit that just bolts together, even though the neck bolts on. If we've chosen this path, it's because someone doesn't sell what we want, whether it be a certain nut width, neck profile, orientation, pickup route, bridge route, or even a color. A statement as simple as, "all you have to do is __________." For some it's as intimidating as, "all you have to do is cut down a tree, and make a guitar from hand." As I always say, there's no shame in having someone else do the work.
anorakDan
Hero Member
- Messages
- 709
GDBear said:
You're welcome! I learned about that series right here on this board. I've lost several evenings to those videos and I keep going back. He's very meticulous, but believe if you learn to do new tasks the right way first, you save yourself some inevitable grief later on!
Best of luck with your build. Keep us posted on the progress!
Tony Raven
Junior Member
- Messages
- 51
I've used two layers of Scotch "magic" tape, burnished down thoroughly. However, once in a while, a chip WILL form, & then lifting the tape pulls up the chip which now has to be glued down...
But the best single tool for drilling through finished wood has to be the brad-point drill bit. A set came with my new hand drill (a year ago), & I'm a total convert.
As ever: lowest possible speed, light touch, steady pressure, & do NOT wobble.
But the best single tool for drilling through finished wood has to be the brad-point drill bit. A set came with my new hand drill (a year ago), & I'm a total convert.
As ever: lowest possible speed, light touch, steady pressure, & do NOT wobble.
