Drill for Body and Neck - Suggestions?

[FredStarter]

I am considering my first build. I have an old Craftsman corded drill but I am worried it might be too powerful for delicate guitar body and neck drilling. Is this correct? If so, would it be best to invest in something like a Makita 3/8 inh drill/driver tool? Thanks!

 

[mayfly]

is the Craftsman variable speed?  If so it should be fine.  Just practice going slow on some scrap.  And use sharp bits!

 

[FredStarter]

is the Craftsman variable speed?  If so it should be find.  Just practice going slow on some scrap.  And use sharp bits!

Thanks for the response. It is really old, like 35+ years old, but works fine. It is a 3/8 variable speed, reversible drill. I am trying to find a way to do a first build without spending more than the cost of the parts on the setup tools. Over time I have no problem getting lots of tools if I find I have the skill set to do the build(s). My other issue so far is soldering. I am having trouble finding a good starter setup for soldering, and finding the solder, without going to Amazon, which I will never do. Anyway, thanks for the help. I probably do need to get new bits though. I saw in an older thread something about Forstner bits. Not sure of the pros and cons of them, but I will look into it.

 

[mayfly]

for soldering stuff, try an electronics store like mouser or digikey.  They both have on-line portals.

 

[FredStarter]

for soldering stuff, try an electronics store like mouser or digikey.  They both have on-line portals.

Thanks, both places look good. If I can trouble you with one more question, any suggestions on the soldering tool/station for starting out? I have heard American Beauty is good, but investing $200+ without knowing if I have the skill set to properly solder, seems a bit much. I have watched the Seymour Duncan course on soldering. It doesn't seem hard. My only soldering experience is with outdoor plumbing and I made a nice mess out of that.

 

[mayfly]

I would get a cheaper weller, ideally temperature controlled.  Here's a cheap one:

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Weller/SP25NUS?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2RqUGInH7m%2FSpeN9ymPaQIH2F4%3D

Note that I have not used this tool.  Also if you are planning on soldering on the back of pots it would not have enough jam.  For general wiring it would likely be fine though.

 

[FredStarter]

I would get a cheaper weller, ideally temperature controlled.  Here's a cheap one:

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Weller/SP25NUS?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2RqUGInH7m%2FSpeN9ymPaQIH2F4%3D

Note that I have not used this tool.  Also if you are planning on soldering on the back of pots it would not have enough jam.  For general wiring it would likely be fine though.

Thanks again, you are too kind. I truly appreciate the help. If I were willing to go a bit higher in cost, what do you think of this one:
https://www.sra-solder.com/aoyue-9378-digital-soldering-station

 

[mayfly]

Dunno - never heard of that brand.  Seems like a lot of soldering station for just doing a guitar or two...

 

[Steve_Karl]

Dunno - never heard of that brand.  Seems like a lot of soldering station for just doing a guitar or two...

I agree. That inexpensive Weller is a nice iron.
I bought one for a friend a while back and it's good.

I've got an older Weller and my station is just the iron and some damp Kleenex in a wad to wipe off the tip.
Been doing it that way forever with no problems.

 

[FredStarter]

Dunno - never heard of that brand.  Seems like a lot of soldering station for just doing a guitar or two...

Agreed, I was looking at your original suggestion and then I found this one. More than the Weller but it seems like it would handle even soldering pots, etc.
https://americanbeautytools.com/soldering-iron-3112/7
Anyway, I won't bother you further. Thanks for all of your replies, it has been very helpful.

 

[mayfly]

It's no bother at all.  As a mentor of mine used to say: "There are no stupid questions, just smart-ass answers."  :headbang:

 

[ChrisMC]

I grabbed one of these after accidentally coming across it in a YouTube video and thought to myself “What sorcery is THIS??!”:

https://www.sainsmart.com/products/toolpac-upgraded-ts80p-portable-soldering-iron-kit

If George Jetson had a soldering iron, it would probably look like this. This thing is pretty awesome. And small. Perfect for getting into tight spaces (like guitar control cavities). It only comes with the super sharp conical tip though (which is great for doing pretty much everything on a guitar except for grounding to pots and trem claw), but I bought a chisel tip for those solder points. It’s a 36 watt and packs a punch.

Racing drone guys use them because they can be adequately powered from a LiPo battery or other properly spec’d battery packs, but I like it because it works well and it’s cool.

…and now we know where all the 3.5mm TRS connectors went.

 

[DuckBaloo]

I am a huge fan of the Hakko FX888D. Fast heating, accurate and the tips are as easy to source as Weller — I get tips from Amazon, MicroCenter and (recently closed) Fry's.

Haven't used the Weller listed in this thread, but avoid the budget-priced, analog Weller WLC100 station, it uses a set screw for hold the tip on and when it got hot, and it was not unusual to have the tip drop out on to my workspace. By comparison, higher-end Wellers (and the Hakko) have the screw-down cover to keep the tips firmly in place.

As to the drill, the Craftsman will be fine, make sure the bits are sharp and in good shape. But it's not something I would try and do without a drill press, or a plunge attachment for a hand drill. You need to have it exactly square on.

 

[TBurst Std]

For the drilling: what holes are anticipating to drill?
Pick guard, pups, tuner location holes?
Or are drilling holes to attach the neck to the body?

 

[mayfly]

Or are drilling holes to attach the neck to the body?

Yea after re-reading the original post I'm wondering this as well.  If you are drilling neck attachment holes, I would use a drill press.  There is also a trick for getting the body holes aligned with the neck holes as well:  drill the neck holes, put a cut off nail in each hole, and press into neck pocket leaving an index mark.

 

[FredStarter]

For the drilling: what holes are anticipating to drill?
Pick guard, pups, tuner location holes?
Or are drilling holes to attach the neck to the body?

Good question, and I am only anticipating your first sentance, pickguard, pups, tuner location holes, and also strap buttons. My assumption was that if I get a Warmoth body and neck they make sure they fit together, and the neck holes would already be drilled. If that is incorrect, I might have to rethink things.

 

[FredStarter]

I am a huge fan of the Hakko FX888D. Fast heating, accurate and the tips are as easy to source as Weller — I get tips from Amazon, MicroCenter and (recently closed) Fry's.

Haven't used the Weller listed in this thread, but avoid the budget-priced, analog Weller WLC100 station, it uses a set screw for hold the tip on and when it got hot, and it was not unusual to have the tip drop out on to my workspace. By comparison, higher-end Wellers (and the Hakko) have the screw-down cover to keep the tips firmly in place.

As to the drill, the Craftsman will be fine, make sure the bits are sharp and in good shape. But it's not something I would try and do without a drill press, or a p-lunge attachment for a hand drill. You need to have it exactly square on.

Based on my answer below that I am not drilling neck holes (as I assume(d) that Warmoth does that if you buy a Warmoth body and neck), would I still need a drill press? Also, as a test to see if I can solder OK I ordered the Weller 40-Watt LED Soldering Iron Kit (model SP40NKUS). Would this have the same issue with the tips as the WLC100 station? Thanks for your help.

 

[mayfly]

My assumption was that if I get a Warmoth body and neck they make sure they fit together, and the neck holes would already be drilled. If that is incorrect, I might have to rethink things.

Your assumption is correct:  Warmoth necks and bodies are pre-drilled for the neck mounting screws.  For all other drilling needs, the craftsman will be just fine.

 

[TBurst Std]

For the drilling: what holes are anticipating to drill?
Pick guard, pups, tuner location holes?
Or are drilling holes to attach the neck to the body?

Good question, and I am only anticipating your first sentance, pickguard, pups, tuner location holes, and also strap buttons. My assumption was that if I get a Warmoth body and neck they make sure they fit together, and the neck holes would already be drilled. If that is incorrect, I might have to rethink things.

That clarifies things. Yes if you order W, the neck attachment holes are done.  For the neck you can specify the tuner hole you want.  You can also specify the jack hole (go 7/8) unless you are using the top routed strat jack pocket. You are good with the drill you have. No press needed.

 

[FredStarter]

For the drilling: what holes are anticipating to drill?
Pick guard, pups, tuner location holes?
Or are drilling holes to attach the neck to the body?

Good question, and I am only anticipating your first sentance, pickguard, pups, tuner location holes, and also strap buttons. My assumption was that if I get a Warmoth body and neck they make sure they fit together, and the neck holes would already be drilled. If that is incorrect, I might have to rethink things.

That clarifies things. Yes if you order W, the neck attachment holes are done.  For the neck you can specify the tuner hole you want.  You can also specify the jack hole (go 7/8) unless you are using the top routed strat jack pocket. You are good with the drill you have. No press needed.

Great, sounds good. For the jack hole I am going with top routed as I am hoping/planning to get a preloaded pickguard for my first build. I have some basic soldering stuff coming this week and I intend to practice a bit to see if I can solder. If I am not really confident right away, a preloaded pickguard seems like a better first step. If I take to soldering quickly I might just do the electronics myself.