Diamondback Rear-Rout Depth

[autieblesam]

Does anyone know the working depth (factors in cover) of the Diamondback body? I'm trying to design a build that uses two push/pull pots and two concentric pots (stereo wiring with volume/pan control for each pickup and series/parallel humbucker switch on tone knobs).

I don't like the tele bodies and don't want a top lam, so the Diamondback seems to be the only viable body, unless there isn't enough clearance to accommodate the push/pull pots.

 

[stratamania]

The Diamondbacks have the same body thickness as the other Warmoth bodies, so you should not have an issue.

 

[ragamuffin]

I don't like the tele bodies and don't want a top lam, so the Diamondback seems to be the only viable body, unless there isn't enough clearance to accommodate the push/pull pots.

You can get a rear route body without a top laminate in most shapes. Diamondback is definitely not the only option.

But if you do go with a Diamondback, it's just as deep as the other Warmoth bodies; plenty of room for push/pull pots. You'll want long shaft pots for any Warmoth rear routed body.

 

[autieblesam]

Thanks to you both. I guess that explains why I can't find measurements—there's no need to post it as a specification if it's the same with every body.

You can get a rear route body without a top laminate in most shapes. Diamondback is definitely not the only option.

The issue is specifically the combination of no lam top (this is primarily a pricing issue, but the natural wood style I want doesn't seem to look good with any of the binding options), and a configuration that supports 4 control knobs and a toggle switch.

As far as I can tell, the only bodies that support the LP configuration (the only configuration I've seen that supports 4 knobs and a toggle) are the Mooncaster, Regal, Diamondback, and Tele (carved top, custom, or deluxe. Of the 6 bodies, only the Diamondback and non-carve-top Teles are available without a lam top.

Since I'm not a fan of the Tele style (the non-carve-top Teles are also top route, which I'd rather avoid if I can), that leaves just the Diamondback.

 

[PFDarkside]

Teles are also rear route, but if you don’t like them that’s ok.

A lot of the rear route bodies (like Strat, soloist, etc.) have a HUGE control cavity that would accommodate 4 or more pots. They don’t have the LP switch though.

 

[autieblesam]

I'm electing to go with a Jazzmaster as I've discovered I can accomplish what I need with a rear-route on this body. I think the shape is more befitting the sort of understated rustic look I'm going for that'll compliment the natural wood finishes I'm considering (I'm between black/brown/yellow burst roasted swamp ash and clear walnut at this point, both in satin).

The configuration is going to be:

• Lower horn toggle for bridge/both/neck pickup selection
• Oak Grigsby 5T4P blade-style super-switch for selection between in-series and in-parallel (positions are 1 closest to neck and 5 closest to body edge; I can't find a 4T4P blade-style, so I'm just making both outside positions full in-series—this seems most intuitive to me)
  • Position 1 and 5: both in series
  • Position 2: neck in parallel, bridge in series
  • Position 3: both in parallel
  • Position 4: neck in series, bridge in parallel
• Pots will be concentric 500K pots:
  • Pot 1: top is bridge tone; bottom is neck tone
  • Pot 2: top is neck volume; bottom is neck pan
  • Pot 3: top is bridge volume; bottom is bridge pan

Teles are also rear route, but if you don’t like them that’s ok.

The carve-top tele is the only one with rear-route and all the controls I would need. If I don't go with the configuration above (only appears to be viable on the Jazzmaster—seems to be the only one that will support a blade switch and a toggle), I would need the LP configuration:

• Standard toggle for bridge/both/neck pickup selection
• 2 push/pull or push/push 500K pots:
  • Pot 1: Neck pickup series/parallel switch; neck tone
  • Pot 2: Bridge pickup series/parallel switch; bridge tone
• 2 concentric 500k pots:
  • Pot 1: top pot neck volume; bottom pot neck pan
  • Pot 2: top pot bridge volume; bottom pot bridge pan

 

[autieblesam]

A lot of the rear route bodies (like Strat, soloist, etc.) have a HUGE control cavity that would accommodate 4 or more pots. They don’t have the LP switch though.

This is a good point and one for me to keep in mind before I start buying. Drilling a hole is of course very easy and I don't think I'd find it too challenging to find a good spacing that looks nice. A 3-way blade switch is perfectly acceptable if accommodating a 3-way toggle might be challenging.

I don't suppose you have a picture of the rear-route on a strat or soloist? Is the rear-route cavity always the same regardless of what actual holes are requested?

 

[PFDarkside]

This is a good point and one for me to keep in mind before I start buying. Drilling a hole is of course very easy and I don't think I'd find it too challenging to find a good spacing that looks nice. A 3-way blade switch is perfectly acceptable if accommodating a 3-way toggle might be challenging.

I don't suppose you have a picture of the rear-route on a strat or soloist? Is the rear-route cavity always the same regardless of what actual holes are requested?

These are my two, I’ll take off the control cavity to show the inside.

 

[PFDarkside]

Here we go. You can see the holes in the front and rear. It’s huge.

 

[autieblesam]

Here we go. You can see the holes in the front and rear. It’s huge.

Thanks, the open route with drilled holes is especially helpful to see—that's a lot of room to work with for custom control layouts (and not having the strat-style volume control in the way).

I can also see that the jack hole has plenty of room in there to work with so the long-shaft jacks are unncessary for my project.