Control layout options beyond "standard" Strat for rear rout models

[Johnfv]

I would love to see a good evenly spaced 2 knob configuration option (with 5 way switch) for Strats similar to Suhr, Anderson and others.  Particularly on a rear rout model with a side jack the "standard" Strat control layout crams everything into a small area of the cavity. I would also like the same option for pickguards. 

 

[line6man]

Drill it yourself.
You don't even need a drill press, just a hand drill, a 3/8" bradpoint, and a small twist bit for the pilot holes.

 

[Johnfv]

Drill it yourself.
You don't even need a drill press, just a hand drill, a 3/8" bradpoint, and a small twist bit for the pilot holes.

I realize that's an option, I'm afraid I would tear it up. But, maybe on my next one I will try...

 

[line6man]

Drill it yourself.
You don't even need a drill press, just a hand drill, a 3/8" bradpoint, and a small twist bit for the pilot holes.

I realize that's an option, I'm afraid I would tear it up. But, maybe on my next one I will try...

You just have to take it slow and easy when you're drilling. If you rush it, you will tear out the hole.

Make sure you drill from the top, btw. If there is a tearout, you will want it on the control cavity side.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Depending on the pot size, mine are 5/16".  I always drill on the opposite side I want to look pretty.  I would drill from the cavity side.  Of course a forstner bit is the best for drilling cleanly from either side.  But drilling 2 holes for controls is just 2 of many that will be drilled unless you plan on having no tuners or strap buttons.

 

[bagman67]

The inside of that cavity is not necessarily hospitable to your efforts at custom control layouts.  At least in the acse of your two knob layout, if you want the knobs anywhere but in the standard Strat positions, you may find the thickness of the top varies.  With the carved top Tele, anyway, the cavity is routed to a thickness that allows for the blade switch to be installed, and that leaves an irregular surface to try to drill for the control holes.

Cagey may have some photos for what he did with Quty Pie to address this with a Dremel.

Bagman

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

The O.P. is referring to a rear route Strat, so no carved top issues.

 

[line6man]

Depending on the pot size, mine are 5/16".  I always drill on the opposite side I want to look pretty.  I would drill from the cavity side.  Of course a forstner bit is the best for drilling cleanly from either side.  But drilling 2 holes for controls is just 2 of many that will be drilled unless you plan on having no tuners or strap buttons.

I would never drill from the bad side. Even with a forstner bit, you can tear out if you are pushing too hard. It's much better that the tearout not be on the top. Though it will be hidden either way by the washer/nut/knob.

5/16"? When I drilled the holes on the two bodies I've made so far, I found a 3/8" bit necessary for standard CTS pots, and even then, the fit was tight enough that the pots would stay in place with no nuts. What pots do you use?

 

[swarfrat]

tape

 

[Updown]

Drill from the top  :icon_thumright: of cause with tape.
Heres some pic's of mine, using brad point drill bits ..... easy as !!
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=17452.0

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

My tear outs usually come towards me and aren't from pushing the drill to hard, rather have such a steady hand, it pulls what it's drilling up.  My last pot job were CTS pots.  The control holes were already drilled, but the pots wouldn't go in.  I hand turned the drill bit as it was just the finish causing obstruction.  IIRC, it was 5/16".

 

[Cagey]

Depending on the pot size, mine are 5/16".  I always drill on the opposite side I want to look pretty.  I would drill from the cavity side.  Of course a forstner bit is the best for drilling cleanly from either side.  But drilling 2 holes for controls is just 2 of many that will be drilled unless you plan on having no tuners or strap buttons.

I'm sorry but that's terrible advice. You never drill from the cavity side, always from the beauty side. And you have to use a side-cutting bit such as a Forstner or a Brad Point, never a twist drill, or all bets are off. Ignore any of those points and you'll either chip the finish or worse, tear out the wood. Then you're stuck trying to come up with new cuss words to describe how pissed off you are.

It's also helpful to center the bit, then turn it by hand a few times to score the surface with the side cutters. After that, you can pretty much get away with murder.

Incidentally, pots need a 3/8" hole. Anything smaller is asking for trouble. You're liable to tear out a hole that doesn't have tearouts already. Pots don't need to fit like tuners. That is, it's not a press-fit. It's a clearance fit.

 

[Cagey]

The inside of that cavity is not necessarily hospitable to your efforts at custom control layouts.  At least in the acse of your two knob layout, if you want the knobs anywhere but in the standard Strat positions, you may find the thickness of the top varies.  With the carved top Tele, anyway, the cavity is routed to a thickness that allows for the blade switch to be installed, and that leaves an irregular surface to try to drill for the control holes.

Cagey may have some photos for what he did with Quty Pie to address this with a Dremel.

We lucked out with Quty Pie in that by the time I calculated where things needed to be, I was able to avoid the switch clearance routing Warmoth puts in there regardless of whether you ask for a cutout on top or not. So, she didn't have to taste the vengeance of the dreaded Dremel motor from hell.

I'm surprised you haven't opened that thing up and looked at it. That would have been one of the first things I'd have done, right after seeing if everything worked as expected. It's a beautiful job, if I must say <grin> Everything is relieved, insulated, and anchored, plus I left enough of a service loop that you'd be able to add switches or whatever if the spirit moved you.

Of course, I take damn near everything apart whether it needs to be or not. I'm worse than a cat when it comes to curiosity.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I don't know about terrible advice.  I was sharing what my experience was with drilling.  My tearouts, when they rarely occur, have been towards me, so I wouldn't drill from the beauty side.  I also prefaced the 5/16" with IIRC, which means "if I recall correctly", which apparently I do not.  Luckily the forum ace caught it.

 

[line6man]

I don't know about terrible advice.  I was sharing what my experience was with drilling.  My tearouts, when they rarely occur, have been towards me, so I wouldn't drill from the beauty side.  I also prefaced the 5/16" with IIRC, which means "if I recall correctly", which apparently I do not.  Luckily the forum ace caught it.

As much as I hate to agree with Cagey, I also think it's terrible advice. I would never drill from the control cavity side with a hand drill, that's just asking for trouble. :dontknow:

 

[Cagey]

Usually when you get tearouts toward you, it's because you're using a twist drill. Unless you're drilling in metal, they have an annoying tendency to chew rather than cut. It doesn't always happen, but it happens alarmingly often enough that you don't want to risk it. The chances of it happening are quite high though, especially on a finished surface. Sometimes tape will mitigate that, but basically all tape does is hold the chips and tearouts in place until you can glue them back in. Better to avoid that by using the right tool, which is a side-cutting bit. They slice the outside edges before they scoop out the guts, so they make nice, clean holes like this...

Those were made with a Forstner bit, but even with that you can see there's a slight bit of tearout on the backside. If I'd have used a twist drill, it would have looked like I let the squirrels chew those holes out.

 

[Cagey]

As much as I hate to agree with Cagey, I also think it's terrible advice. I would never drill from the control cavity side with a hand drill, that's just asking for trouble. :dontknow:

Why does everybody hate to agree with me? Am I offering bad advice more often than good? I know I'm opinionated, so no need to point that out, but my opinions are generally based in fact, and I'm careful to point it out when they're not. If I was a more sensitive sorta guy, I could be offended.

 

[AprioriMark]

Why does everybody hate to agree with me?

Anyone?  Bueller?  :cool01:

-Mark

 

[m4rk0]

Why does everybody hate to agree with me?

Because it is fun not to agree with you!

 

[line6man]

Why does everybody hate to agree with me?

Because it is fun not to agree with you!

It's more fun than a barrel of monkeys!