DangerousR6
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I used Loctite 2 ton epoxy on my spalted tele's top, that stuffs hard as a rock....Polishes up nice too...
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swarfrat
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Sorry, I meant tough in the material science meaning of toughness.
Think hockey puck. Impact resistant, but it will scuff and scratch.
Think hockey puck. Impact resistant, but it will scuff and scratch.
DangerousR6
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If you're asking about the 2 ton epopxy, yes it sure will...Super glue will to... :icon_biggrin:Jusatele said:
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swarfrat
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Okay - question for the finish gurus. When do I stop filling and start finishing? Do I need to have the filler coat completely level before switching to the clear coat? And is there any method for scraping on the rounded corners? (Like french curve scrapers or something?) Also - anyone who's done the wipe on polyurethane thing: How thin is the stuff? Because the epoxy goes on thick, and I feel like I end up scraping back almost to bare wood before any runs and drips are gone. It's not - although it does wear thinner in places - but when I'm done it gets a bit closer to nice and smooth.
You can see a couple incompletely filled pores here - mostly in the lower left. Color balance is a bit off (greenish - they're compact fluorescents w/ a color that doesn't exactly match up w/ the camera's compensation, and my white balance caps didn't work well with the looooooong exposure times)
You can see a couple incompletely filled pores here - mostly in the lower left. Color balance is a bit off (greenish - they're compact fluorescents w/ a color that doesn't exactly match up w/ the camera's compensation, and my white balance caps didn't work well with the looooooong exposure times)
Cagey
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Unless you're doing a two-part poly or catalyzed enamel finish, you need to start with a flat surface to end with a flat surface when you shoot a gloss finish. Otherwise, the grain is going show. Even those won't work miracles, but they're better about leveling out than anything else. Plus, they don't need finish sanding or rubbing out. They cure looking like wet glass and stay that way. Problem is you really need a spray booth to deal with them because they're so toxic.
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swarfrat
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This will be wipe on whatever. Currently planning on polyeurethane. I can't shoot anything without ending up with half inch holes in the body.
Cagey
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swarfrat said:
Hehe! Yeah. PULL! BLAMMO! Dammit!
If you're going to wipe it on, all the more reason to make sure the surface is as good as you want the finish to be. Wiped on finishes are typically pretty thin. If there are any irregularities in the surface, they'll show up. You can sand and re-apply, which eventually fills, but it just drags things out.
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swarfrat
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Epoxy coat #3 - did this one with a rag, waiting to see how it turns out, but I think I like it better than the squeegee. (My squeege is too big - it's like a 16" squeege - the best deal I cound find on one, planned to cut it down but haven't yet.) I definitely think there will be less scraping from drips and runs, but it remains to be seen if it levels as well.
Cagey
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Grain filling is tedious work that requires a lot of time, patience and elbow grease, no matter what you use. It really drives you to figure out a way to shoot multi-part finishes in such a way that it doesn't kill your dog.
I remember the first time I shot catalyzed enamel, I was surprised at how much it cost. But, the way the guy explained it to me was "You shoot it and you're done. Or, I'll sell you lacquer for 1/3 the cost, but you'll spend 30 hours rubbing it out. For the difference in cost, you'll be working for about $1.50 an hour." Well, my momma only raised a couple fools, and luckily I wasn't one of them. I can be foolish on my own hook <grin> But, I hate work as much as the next lazy ass, so I paid for the Imron. Didn't kill the neighbor's dog, much as I wished it would have, but the reducer worked miracles on the ants <grin>
I remember the first time I shot catalyzed enamel, I was surprised at how much it cost. But, the way the guy explained it to me was "You shoot it and you're done. Or, I'll sell you lacquer for 1/3 the cost, but you'll spend 30 hours rubbing it out. For the difference in cost, you'll be working for about $1.50 an hour." Well, my momma only raised a couple fools, and luckily I wasn't one of them. I can be foolish on my own hook <grin> But, I hate work as much as the next lazy ass, so I paid for the Imron. Didn't kill the neighbor's dog, much as I wished it would have, but the reducer worked miracles on the ants <grin>
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swarfrat
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Ok, moving over Christmas really put a dent in the progress. (As has work). No pics, but I do have the first coat of Behlen's Master-Gel drying on the back. Hope I didn't go too thin, not sure it really had a chance to level.
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swarfrat
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First coat of urethane - not real glossy yet, but at least has the shade about where I wanted it.
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swarfrat
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Wow - I'm flattered. With this body though it's largely a matter of trying not to screw it up.
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swarfrat
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Ya know, I'd almost decided to go Wenge/Wenge but... looking that pic (I got the real thing, dunno why it really jumps out in the photograph) it needs an ebony board w/ no inlays. Just to continue the blackness.
Stratocaster® ProConversion 24 3/4", Wenge / Ebony, Right Handed, 1 11/16", Fatback, GD6105 (Gold Color), Schaller (25/64", 11/32"), No Inlay,Side Dots Only, 10-16" Compound, 22 fret, Standard 4 Bolt, No Nut Install
Stratocaster® ProConversion 24 3/4", Wenge / Ebony, Right Handed, 1 11/16", Fatback, GD6105 (Gold Color), Schaller (25/64", 11/32"), No Inlay,Side Dots Only, 10-16" Compound, 22 fret, Standard 4 Bolt, No Nut Install
Firebird211
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That has class and then some. Can't wait to see it all finished. :guitaristgif:
Steve_Karl
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Looks great !
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swarfrat
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Okay - this is probably the last shot before it gets done done, simply because - although I've still got a lot of work left, (maybe a WHOLE lot), the remaining work isn't as splashy. (There's some lighter stuff down at the butt that I color stretched to make it look purty - I'm afraid I'll have to take it back to bare wood :sad1: The urethane doesn't 'wet' the way the epoxy does. And it's a sand through on the epoxy that wasn't visible while it was dry)
I do think I'll probably leave it about this level of gloss - I wanted it to bring out the depth of the grain, but still look woody, not plasticky. (Also I don't want a thick mirror gloss finish to take care of.
The pickguard screws are brass flathead, not gold oval - and I just cut the tops off a bunch for the photo. (I missed one on the lower horn but I'm not reshooting to fix that).
Now would someone please buy my fretless bass fer crying out loud so I can order the neck?
I do think I'll probably leave it about this level of gloss - I wanted it to bring out the depth of the grain, but still look woody, not plasticky. (Also I don't want a thick mirror gloss finish to take care of.
The pickguard screws are brass flathead, not gold oval - and I just cut the tops off a bunch for the photo. (I missed one on the lower horn but I'm not reshooting to fix that).
Now would someone please buy my fretless bass fer crying out loud so I can order the neck?
