ZionWarmoth
Junior Member
- Messages
- 169
This is an epic build, the woods are beautiful and the electronics awesome!!!!!!!
The first guitar I painted (and the only one so far) I painted the body with urethane (sorry I don't know more than that. I had the spray bomb filled at a PPG dealer), and had the finished work (which came out pretty good) clear coated (for free) at a local auto body shop. I did the neck with wipe on oil based poly.
I asked something about finishing this guitar on another forum and one person replied "well I guess if you ever need a boat paddle . . ."
But I love how that guitar came out, including the sound.
I asked something about finishing this guitar on another forum and one person replied "well I guess if you ever need a boat paddle . . ."
But I love how that guitar came out, including the sound.
S
swarfrat
Guest
I literally have like four music projects going simultaneously. I'm soldering up the hum cancel board, got my dummy coil in, waiting to rework this guitar until I have the hum cancel debugged and working, and the nut intonated for the wound G. A friend at work made me think soldering 0402 size SMT was no big deal, and even though this is a space constrained app - these things are like dust spec sized. Literally - I've been shocked at how many times I've found ones I dropped in the carpet - especially once I see again how tiny they are - they're way smaller than the crap that you walk over every day in your carpet. Fitting in the single coil route slot of a universal route is not critically space constrained, these size components are more like for medical devices being embedded in house flies.
Anyway - whenever I do get all that working, and open the guitar back up, another planned change is this:
I bought a 5-way import switch from GFS. I could've done this with the super switch, but it's overkill, has tiny connectors (hah hah hah like that's stopping me), and I've heard it's mechanically a bit iffy. So I bought a cheap 5 way that I knew had 2 poles, and dissassembled it. (No! No dissassemble #5!) Anyway - I removed the in between pads for the #4 position. I wanted #5 to be my mute, but it wouldn't work with the existing copper layout, so the switch will now be:
1 - Bridge
2 - Bridge + Neck
3 - Neck
4 - Mute (aka silence the Magnetics and Piezo sum on pin 7, so its just the hex out going to MIDI)
5 - Piezo summed to Pin 7 only (BTW the picture is labeled backwards on the Piezo - didn't have time to fix the pic before heading out.)
The piezo only goes out the 13 pin connector now, hex on pins 1-6. Summed piezo on pin 7 IF we're in position 5
Current plan is the battery will only drive the hum cancel, Piezos will be powered off the 13 pin connector any time they're in use, and the magnetics will be an old fashioned high impedance guitar pickup 3-way scheme.
Anyway - GFS sent a 3-way, but once I opened it up, I saw that its the same part, and I just had to reverse the lever and turn the plastic wheel around so the bumps are on the other side. Then I removed the in between pads for #4 on both poles, then put it all back together, and it checks out with the meter.
Anyway - whenever I do get all that working, and open the guitar back up, another planned change is this:
I bought a 5-way import switch from GFS. I could've done this with the super switch, but it's overkill, has tiny connectors (hah hah hah like that's stopping me), and I've heard it's mechanically a bit iffy. So I bought a cheap 5 way that I knew had 2 poles, and dissassembled it. (No! No dissassemble #5!) Anyway - I removed the in between pads for the #4 position. I wanted #5 to be my mute, but it wouldn't work with the existing copper layout, so the switch will now be:
1 - Bridge
2 - Bridge + Neck
3 - Neck
4 - Mute (aka silence the Magnetics and Piezo sum on pin 7, so its just the hex out going to MIDI)
5 - Piezo summed to Pin 7 only (BTW the picture is labeled backwards on the Piezo - didn't have time to fix the pic before heading out.)
The piezo only goes out the 13 pin connector now, hex on pins 1-6. Summed piezo on pin 7 IF we're in position 5
Current plan is the battery will only drive the hum cancel, Piezos will be powered off the 13 pin connector any time they're in use, and the magnetics will be an old fashioned high impedance guitar pickup 3-way scheme.
Anyway - GFS sent a 3-way, but once I opened it up, I saw that its the same part, and I just had to reverse the lever and turn the plastic wheel around so the bumps are on the other side. Then I removed the in between pads for #4 on both poles, then put it all back together, and it checks out with the meter.
Jumble Jumble
Hero Member
- Messages
- 1,932
Will you not get pops switching past "nothing" like that?
S
swarfrat
Guest
Easily fixed with a resistor to ground. Had the stuff been easier to remove, I'd probably been better to just remove the overlap between #3 and #5, and ground unused positions, but the stuff was a bear to remove (as witnessed by the marks left). I was shocked the plating was so thick. If I do it over, I'll probably use the dremel to remove the overlap more selectively.
Jumble Jumble
Hero Member
- Messages
- 1,932
Tell me more about this resistor to ground?
S
swarfrat
Guest
Nah, its not complicated. It only has two knobs and a 5 way switch. :laughing8:
I did consider actually wiring two pickguard scews as capacitive switches for S1 and S2, drilling almost through the pickguard and epoxying LEDs on the underside so you can tell when the switches activate.
It's a curse.
I did consider actually wiring two pickguard scews as capacitive switches for S1 and S2, drilling almost through the pickguard and epoxying LEDs on the underside so you can tell when the switches activate.
It's a curse.
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