Burnishing Raw Necks

[justsomeguy1]

I think their raw bodies are sanded to 220 and the necks to 320, but it does 't seem to be written anywhere. Raw roasted Maple as provided is pretty nice, though. Still, the difference between that and burnished is worlds apart. If you've never done it, you're in for a real treat. It's one of the woods that responds especially well to the treatment.

Damn you and your seduction. Guess I'll have to try it. I'm not much of a woodworker, hope I don't mess up the profile in doing this.

 

[Cagey]

Don't worry. It's almost impossible to mess up the profile with grits as fine as are used in burnishing, and I only say "almost" to avoid speaking in absolutes. I'm sure if you went batshit crazy with a 2 foot stack of 1000 grit, you might eventually take off a few thousandths  :laughing7:

 

[justsomeguy1]

Don't worry. It's almost impossible to mess up the profile with grits as fine as are used in burnishing, and I only say "almost" to avoid speaking in absolutes. I'm sure if you went batshit crazy with a 2 foot stack of 1000 grit, you might eventually take off a few thousandths  :laughing7:

*Takes notes* "Only use 1ft high stack of 1000 grit"

Got it, thanks!  ccasion14:

 

[justsomeguy1]

Cagey, do you think that using a single thin coat of Tru Oil at the end of this sanding process would negate the effects? I like unfinished necks and their smooth satin feel, but want to pop the grain with a tiny bit of Tru Oil.

 

[Cagey]

Some guys do it, but in my opinion it doesn't feel as good as the raw and is unnecessary for protection or appearance. The process tends to seal up the wood and the wood doesn't have much "tooth" to it, to the point where it's risky to try and finish it as the finish may not adhere as well as it could.  Once you get past the 1000 - 1200 grit, I think you'll be pleased as how well the grain/figure will "pop" all by itself. Being roasted, there's already a pronounced contrast to the grain, and the fine surface will enable whatever chatoyance it has to be more visible.

Be aware that as you go up in grits, it takes progressively longer for the abrasives to have a noticeable effect, so patience is important. It may feel exceptional long before it's really done if you're not accustomed to that kind of finish, but power through it. It rewards you.

If after you've played it a few months it feels/looks like maybe you'd like a finish on it, you may not have gone long enough the first time around, but roughing it up a bit with some 320 will clean it prepare it for some kind of finish, and you can do what you want. Or, just start over and watch a cheesy movie for an hour and a half while you do it  :icon_biggrin:

 

[ARCnet78]

Just one thing to EVERYONE who contributed questions, answers to this thread.....

:yourock:

I was sooo happy with my roasted maple neck when I received it, now after burnishing it (90 minutes) it feels, and looks, so much better.

 

[justsomeguy1]

Phew... I just made it through all 26 pages of this thread. So first off, sorry for asking questions that were already answered. Second, thanks to everyone who shared their experience.

Going to start the process of rolling the fretboard edges tonight and once that is done I'll be starting with the burnishing. Here goes nothing, will post pics.

 

[Toolmaster Of Brainerd]

Burnished my first neck and fretboard. Canary neck with Pau Ferro board. I went to 3000 grit. There was definitely a difference between 2000 and 3000, but that could have just been from the additional time basically polishing it, rather than because of the finer grit.

I felt like peak feeling was at 1200 or 1500 grit. After that the sandpaper felt like it was polishing and burnishing instead of sanding. Now it feels like glass; very smooth, but still kind of sticky, if that makes sense.  :icon_scratch: Maybe because of the oils in the Canary?

It looks like it has a finish on it. Unbelievable that this is raw wood.

 

[Cagey]

I felt like peak feeling was at 1200 or 1500 grit. After that the sandpaper felt like it was polishing and burnishing instead of sanding. Now it feels like glass; very smooth, but still kind of sticky, if that makes sense.  :icon_scratch: Maybe because of the oils in the Canary?

It looks like it has a finish on it. Unbelievable that this is raw wood.

I've usually found the best happens at around 1500, with 2000 being a finishing touch. Past that, it seems returns have diminished to the point where it just isn't worth the effort.

I've never felt anything like "sticky" when finished. Usually, you almost have to be careful picking up the guitar off the stand, as it tends to slide down your hand to the headstock.

I don't think the good results you got from canary are from it being "oily", it's just a harder than usual wood, which polishes up finer than some of the more open-grained woods. If you really want to feel slick, try burnishing a Pau Ferro or Roasted Maple neck. The feel is just sublime. Doesn't seem possible with raw wood.

 

[Bob Hoover Ross]

I felt like peak feeling was at 1200 or 1500 grit. After that the sandpaper felt like it was polishing and burnishing instead of sanding.

:::checks thread title:::

 

[Sadie-f]

I did up my Musikraft maple+rosewood neck the other day, I like the results a LOT!

It's not raw, but close. Musikraft doesn't warranty unfinished necks, so I spec'd oil finish (which they advertise as "same as Fender uses"). As it approached 6 mo old, I added a thin application of "tried and true" oil (BLO + beeswax), that was  a year ago.

I used the papers I had available, 600, 1000, 4000. That last is too big a step, however I love the results! A bit too slick actually, and I think I'm going to try a single coat of Tung oil before I start the piezo wiring step on this guitar.

My favorite finish on a neck so far is the satin nitro on my Martin, playing has burnished it where I play most and it's beautiful & good overall feel. Perhaps someday I'll try a nitro finish on maple, however the only local source sells it by the quart, and that's ~500 x more than I'll need.

 

[Sadie-f]

Images, focused at different spots along neck

 

[ragamuffin]

Images, focused at different spots along neck

Looks great!

 

[garytlove]

I searched, and then bought, a box of 5" random orbital discs.  Add "ultra fine" to your query and they popped right up!  10 each from 400-2000 grit.  Will make it easier to rough one out before a little hand finishing!

 

[Nando Vallart]

Hey guys! How are you???

Quick question!
Warmoth seems to apply a grain filling of some sort on the raw necks, for what I remember... After you burnish your neck, does you apply any kind of oil or finish to protect or it's just bare wood?

Concerned about bare wood thing.

Aaron perhaps can help with what Warmoth does with their raw necks.

 

[mayfly]

Fernando!!!

I've got four raw warmoth necks:  Two Canary and two roasted maple.  All have no oil or anything applied to them and all have had 100's of hours of playing time.  Also, the Canary necks had no grain filler applied at warmoth. 

No worries!

 

[Nando Vallart]

Fernando!!!

I've got four raw warmoth necks:  Two Canary and two roasted maple.  All have no oil or anything applied to them and all have had 100's of hours of playing time.  Also, the Canary necks had no grain filler applied at warmoth. 

No worries!

Hey!!!
I can't find where, but I remember reading that W did a very light coat, just to protect a little more...
Anyway, probably it's not needed really on Gonçalo Alves or Pau Ferro

 

[Nando Vallart]

So, they do what is described as "all our necks are dipped in an oil base penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability".

So, maybe is better think about a little bit of oil on them... Shelaq or whatever

 

[Cagey]

In my experience, once burnished they need no further finishing or attention. In fact, they're so slick you may have trouble getting anything to adhere to it. I've done countless necks this way, and have probably 20+ of my own done that way, and I've never had to do anything further to them. Of course, I'll also tell you SS frets don't wear out, but I know Mayfly has managed to chew through a set already :laughing7: But, worse thing that can happen is if it gets dirty, just take some finishing paper after it again. It's not like you take off enough material to change the dimensions.

 

[Re-Pete]

So, they do what is described as "all our necks are dipped in an oil base penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability".

So, maybe is better think about a little bit of oil on them... Shelaq or whatever

I think that quote comes from the neck section of the Warmoth pages.... I think what they are saying - or go onto say -is that this sealant isn't enough to protect maple necks which may warp in transit due to temperature/humidity changes.

I've burnished a Wenge neck which was a tough job for my first one. Smooth as.  And that brings me to the second part....Finishing on a burnished neck?

Most shellac videos I've seen the sandpapering rarely goes beyond 400 grit paper. Burnishing goes way beyond that. A glass-like smooth surface on a guitar neck (like you get with burnishing), might not be a good surface to do shellacing on?