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Burnishing a Compound Radius Fretboard (No frets, no nut)

vikingred

Hero Member
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Ok, so I have this canary/bocote neck with no frets and no nut:

vms9738a.jpg

vms9738b.jpg


And I am going to burnish the entire thing, including the fretboard.  It's a compound radius 10"-16". 

All other parts of the neck I'm familiar with burnishing.  I've never burnished a fretboard.  It's already pretty slick, better than 220 I'm sure.  Question is, what is the best way to burnish the fretboard itself.  I was thinking of going straight to 2000, and using a soft rubber rectangular sanding block (it's flat but quite soft and it conforms to whatever shape it's on) and gently doing it that way.  I just don't want to screw up the fret slots or the nut slot.  Was thinking of hitting it with compressed air every couple minutes during the process as well.

Any thoughts and advice appreciate.  Also, what would be the approximate cost for a local luthier to install Gold EVO frets?  What else?  Thanks ya'll.
 
I would look into using a 3M sanding sponge. Get a 320 grit as it is relatively stiff but conforms to profiles really well and then make sure it is well covered with the 2000 grit paper so the surface is never touched by the actual grit of the sponge.



 
Tonar8353 said:
I would look into using a 3M sanding sponge. Get a 320 grit as it is relatively stiff but conforms to profiles really well and then make sure it is well covered with the 2000 grit paper so the surface is never touched by the actual grit of the sponge.

I have the 3M sanding sponge (just soft rubber, no grit) and it conforms well. 
 
Sorry to Hijack. I posted this a few days ago in the other burnishing thread, but this seems like it could be more active.

Has anyone noticed their neck getting 'stickier' with the highly polished surface? I polished my bloodwood neck up to 2500 grit and it's so smooth, it has the same issue that a lot of gloss finished necks have, especially if my hands are moist. I'm wondering if I just have to play it in a bit, hit it with some mineral oil, or if I should sand it back down to a more satin like texture. What do some of the more veteran burnishers say?
 
@ vikingred - I buy many of my necks without frets or nuts and do them myself for that very reason - so I can burnish the fretboard. I just do it at the same time as the rest of the neck, no different treatment. The papers you use are too fine to affect the radius, as you're not removing much material at all. Less than .001", I would guess, maybe less.

As for fretting cost for gold EVO, expect to pay the same as you would for stainless work, as it's nearly as hard a material. Maybe a bit more if it's a compound radius fretboard because each fret has to be individually bent to conform. Regular nickel-sliver frets are a bit forgiving because they bend easier, but stainless and EVO is like weapons-grade fretwire, so it has to be the right radius going in or even if it's glued it'll pop up.

Send me a PM for a quote if you want something to compare to the local talent.

@ JD0x0 -
JD0x0 said:
Sorry to Hijack. I posted this a few days ago in the other burnishing thread, but this seems like it could be more active.

I thought I answered that one, but I have now in that thread.
 
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