ghotiphry
Hero Member
- Messages
- 1,543
Gotcha, Rgand. Some musings.
I've built three so far. Here's what I would keep doing. And maybe change.
Some hardware notes: All three have used the Babicz bridge and Hipshot ultralight tuners. If and when I do another, I'll keep using those. Home run. The 17.5 mm tuner ream is just a bit big for the Hipshots, so I ended up wrapping a little metal foil tape around the bushings to snug them up. Not noticeable at all.
Body style: My first and second builds were chambered bodies. This caused me a little aggravation as I'm doing active electronics in all of them. And all need a battery. Chambered bodies will not allow for an addition of a battery box, at least showcase bodies. In the first, a front rout, it means I need to remove the control plate to change batteries, as the battery is within that control rout. In the second, a rear rout, I made a cutout in the control cavity plate to allow me to install a shallow, horizontal style battery box. In the third, a solid body, Warmoth routed me a battery box. If and when I do another, it will be a solid body, regardless of front or rear control rout, just for the battery box.
Electronics: I've got two Audere systems and one John East. The Auderes are a front rout Jazz drop-in and a classic modular system with noise cancellation. All are solid systems. The John East is quite a bit more expensive. I recommend any of them. If you're doing a P bass, the module is the only way to fly, as neither seem to offer a P bass "drop in" option. Probably because the P bass has the controls mounted to the pickguard.
Necks: The first one I did was a roasted maple/ebony, thin profile jazz neck. It is my least favorite. I've got it paired with the rear rout body, the lightest of the bunch. It has the smaller sized tuners, which I consider a mistake. The next was a bubinga/ebony, standard profile jazz from the showcase. Very nice neck, a bit heavy, and caused too much neck heaviness on the lighter body, so I swapped it to a heavier body. The third pau ferro/pau ferro, standard profile from the showcase. Also fantastic, and I'm not sure which one I prefer yet. Pau ferro as a shaft wood seems rarer than others for basses, and it's not a custom option, while there's currently much more wenge, bubinga, etc available. I think I got lucky. Again, I'd stick to the 17.5 mm tuners. For the heavier necks I recommend a body heavier than 5 lbs. I'm considering replacing the roasted maple/ebony with a roasted maple/roasted maple standard profile with the 17.5 mm tuner ream, which I think would pair nicely with my lighter body. I did the stainless 6150 fretwire and Tusq nuts in all of them. No problems there.
Pups: Three completely different setups. First, a set of Nordstrand NJ4SE. Warm sounding. I know they are split coils attempting to emulate single coils, but they are much warmer than single coils. However, I love these pups, absolutely adore the sound they have. And being splits, they are noiseless. The second, a set of Fralin standard single coils. These are paired with the Audere system that has a noise cancellation coil. This bass has a place with me, it's just not my favorite. The third is the Lace Alumitones, and you've seen where that discussion went. I do think this one has the stuff to move into first place.
Strings: I may have different tastes than a lot of other people, but in my string trials my favorites are the DR Legends, at least so far. I love their tone, and the smooth feel. I'm still wanting to try the Thomastik flatwounds.
I recommend taking this information for what it's worth. I've only been playing for a little over a year. I'm a noodler who sits in his basement and plays along with the Beatles, Fleetwood Mac, Ben E King, John Mayer, and a lot of stuff from the 50s and 60s. I just happen to also love building my own instruments. I've got a couple friends with bands who let me into their rehearsals sometimes to play a few songs they and I know. So, if your friend is a punker or into acid rock, don't look to me for tone advice.
I've built three so far. Here's what I would keep doing. And maybe change.
Some hardware notes: All three have used the Babicz bridge and Hipshot ultralight tuners. If and when I do another, I'll keep using those. Home run. The 17.5 mm tuner ream is just a bit big for the Hipshots, so I ended up wrapping a little metal foil tape around the bushings to snug them up. Not noticeable at all.
Body style: My first and second builds were chambered bodies. This caused me a little aggravation as I'm doing active electronics in all of them. And all need a battery. Chambered bodies will not allow for an addition of a battery box, at least showcase bodies. In the first, a front rout, it means I need to remove the control plate to change batteries, as the battery is within that control rout. In the second, a rear rout, I made a cutout in the control cavity plate to allow me to install a shallow, horizontal style battery box. In the third, a solid body, Warmoth routed me a battery box. If and when I do another, it will be a solid body, regardless of front or rear control rout, just for the battery box.
Electronics: I've got two Audere systems and one John East. The Auderes are a front rout Jazz drop-in and a classic modular system with noise cancellation. All are solid systems. The John East is quite a bit more expensive. I recommend any of them. If you're doing a P bass, the module is the only way to fly, as neither seem to offer a P bass "drop in" option. Probably because the P bass has the controls mounted to the pickguard.
Necks: The first one I did was a roasted maple/ebony, thin profile jazz neck. It is my least favorite. I've got it paired with the rear rout body, the lightest of the bunch. It has the smaller sized tuners, which I consider a mistake. The next was a bubinga/ebony, standard profile jazz from the showcase. Very nice neck, a bit heavy, and caused too much neck heaviness on the lighter body, so I swapped it to a heavier body. The third pau ferro/pau ferro, standard profile from the showcase. Also fantastic, and I'm not sure which one I prefer yet. Pau ferro as a shaft wood seems rarer than others for basses, and it's not a custom option, while there's currently much more wenge, bubinga, etc available. I think I got lucky. Again, I'd stick to the 17.5 mm tuners. For the heavier necks I recommend a body heavier than 5 lbs. I'm considering replacing the roasted maple/ebony with a roasted maple/roasted maple standard profile with the 17.5 mm tuner ream, which I think would pair nicely with my lighter body. I did the stainless 6150 fretwire and Tusq nuts in all of them. No problems there.
Pups: Three completely different setups. First, a set of Nordstrand NJ4SE. Warm sounding. I know they are split coils attempting to emulate single coils, but they are much warmer than single coils. However, I love these pups, absolutely adore the sound they have. And being splits, they are noiseless. The second, a set of Fralin standard single coils. These are paired with the Audere system that has a noise cancellation coil. This bass has a place with me, it's just not my favorite. The third is the Lace Alumitones, and you've seen where that discussion went. I do think this one has the stuff to move into first place.
Strings: I may have different tastes than a lot of other people, but in my string trials my favorites are the DR Legends, at least so far. I love their tone, and the smooth feel. I'm still wanting to try the Thomastik flatwounds.
I recommend taking this information for what it's worth. I've only been playing for a little over a year. I'm a noodler who sits in his basement and plays along with the Beatles, Fleetwood Mac, Ben E King, John Mayer, and a lot of stuff from the 50s and 60s. I just happen to also love building my own instruments. I've got a couple friends with bands who let me into their rehearsals sometimes to play a few songs they and I know. So, if your friend is a punker or into acid rock, don't look to me for tone advice.
