Brad point or Forstner bit

[ChrisMC]

All else being equal (correct size, cordless hand drill, both bits being brand new, etc), would you prefer a Brad Point or a Forstner drill bit to cut the control holes through a finished laminated flame maple top?

I’ve heard arguments for both choices, and I’ve heard that under a certain size, go Brad Point, and over a certain size, go with Forstner.

I was planning to do the potentiometer shaft holes and blower switch mini toggle hole with Brad Point bits, and the slightly larger (12mm) hole for the killswitch with a Forstner, but I presume that when I get my neck and body, they’ll be really stunning….so that first hole is probably going to make me a little nervous, just wondering if there’s a consensus here for one bit or the other.

 

[Logrinn]

Forstner.

And did you see my answer about the Kill pot?
https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=33142.msg461154#msg461154

You wouldn't need to drill an extra hole if you went with this solution.

 

[PhilHill]

I've used both types and had good results as long as it's a sharp bit and drilled as close to perfectly vertical as possible. I usually go in from the top, so if there is any tear-out on exit it's on the cavity side where it won't be seen.

 

[ChrisMC]

Forstner.

And did you see my answer about the Kill pot?
https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=33142.msg461154#msg461154

You wouldn't need to drill an extra hole if you went with this solution.

Thanks. Yes, I saw it, but even at the time of that post, I had already ordered a Tesi Poco switch. They’re the ones that make the arcade button kill switch (good for 10,000,000 cycles), but the one I got is only good for 500,000. That should still last a good long while. The arcade buttons are HUGE (requiring a 24mm hole), and I didn’t want that.

Anyhow…part of the fun of having a killswitch is having one that has an LED, as if to say, “Look! I have a button with a light on it!”. Anyhow, I got this one:

https://tesiswitch.com/shop/ols/products/tesi-poco-12mm-momentary-led-push-button-guitar-kill-switch-black-select-led-color

 

[ChrisMC]

I've used both types and had good results as long as it's a sharp bit and drilled as close to perfectly vertical as possible. I usually go in from the top, so if there is any tear-out on exit it's on the cavity side where it won't be seen.

From the top, yes. I’ve read that a few times now, that either one is good as long as it’s a good, sharp bit (these will be brand new; the first thing they’ll touch is this build). Thanks!

 

[wildbill]

Fisch (not Phish, the band) bits come highly recommended by a lot of people and their brad points look to have similar properties to a Forstner. I have a set on my wish list as soon as the second mortgage on my home comes through (they ain't cheap). Made in Austria.

I digressed as usual.  Cool switch Bro, Buckethead uses the kill all the time, have to respect it. Not really something my poor playing requires, I have to keep stopping to look at the tabs anyway.....

 

[stratamania]

As you don't need to drill a flat bottomed or overlapping holes, brad points would be more than suitable.

Just make sure whichever drill bits you use that they are sharp etc.

 

[BroccoliRob]

i think u mean Brad Pitt and Robert Forster tho i don't know what they have to do with guitarz so that's a weird typo. Anyway sorry for ghosting the forum lately. i was feeling depressed. But then my gf (girl friend) put her hand on my shoulder and said "Earth." it meant the world to me. Ive never actually been married but i've had a few near Mrs