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Barn Door Tele

I like the funny guitar man! :D

Your goal is get the same on color on that blank? If yes, this color is going to be awesome!!!!
 
Yes, that blank is my goal. Just a better finish job, anf then a uber finish on it
My vision is the ANTI ROAD WORN
it is what would happen if you took a barn door, and decided to build a boutique guitar from it

Scartozi did a killer job with Drift wood Strat, We have PMed and are developing a site we will call Wood Shed Guitars, it is a site that anyone can feature a guitar on, if they do a raw style build, we are going to have a serial number system and logo by RS so that the Idea can grow. Another thing is I will make a website and piggy back it to a current website I own so we can have pages for each build and have a place to show off our guitars, A place you can show off the Rawness In Design, But the Limiting factor is, they have to look like they were made in a barn type setting, but your Sound Samples need to be Awesome' In other words, we build top rate stuff with the style of raw wood.
A true wood choppers dream.
 
Lookin good :icon_thumright: Now I'm jealous.....I want to work on something too :icon_biggrin:

Think it's gonna look great.....thanks for posting pics so soon. Are you going to do any gray areas.....sanding an area, use the tea, vinegar and steel wool method.....makes a great gray aged color.
 
time for the knock down
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touch up of the art work
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my high dollar drying rack
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ok so I knocked down the stain job back to a well worn look, I then took a bowl of water and asponge  and wiped off all the dust
so the grain raised, cannot seal it till it dried. I looked at it after it had dried a while and decided that I would Apply the Burnt umber before sealing the grain, but I need to touch up the art work. Well next time I sand the art work will dull out nice but I will not be going down so far and it will look better, and if I need to retouch I will do with a brown.
So, I will leave it to dry till tomorrow, and apply more stain.
So far I have to agree it looks like weathered wood, the pics really do not do it justice at this stage
 
you might have mentioned this, but what about masking the top off except for just one of the boards and applying an extra coat or two of stain? then it would look more like separate boards that aren't all the exact same color rather than one solid top guitar. anyway, this thing is looking awesome! i love the individual boards concept. very cool!
 
JaySwear said:
you might have mentioned this, but what about masking the top off except for just one of the boards and applying an extra coat or two of stain? then it would look more like separate boards that aren't all the exact same color rather than one solid top guitar. anyway, this thing is looking awesome! i love the individual boards concept. very cool!
what a fantastic Idea, If I work each board as an individual then each will take on a look of it's own
Thank you, I will do such. Why rush this, it is going be a one of a kind so it needs to become that, each board will take on a personality.
WOW, I love this board.
 
Mgaut051, that is killer, and looks great, someone should be proud to own that. but it is a weathered and old piece of wood, the density is not there so the tonal properties are effected by the condition of the wood. as is structural stability. Mine is a solid ash body, so the properties of that will be coming through with the sound when played.
I not only am looking for a look, but want to put this in my lineup when I play out. 
 
Looking good so far!!

btw, nothing works at all on that hembry... sorry... from the headstock shape to the finish and the hardware choice....
 
Looks good so far. The only thing different I would do would be to use a v shaped router bit to define the line between the different boards. You could then run some watered down black or grey dye into the channel to give it a 3d effect.
 
Will the control plate fit so close that edge of the plate and painted line of the planks be in conflict?  If they are not perfectly parallel, that would be all I'd notice.  I love the concept, and that is an excellent wood choice w/out grain fill to help the effect along.  Lovin' the P-90s too.  Any plans to carry the lines over to the back?
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I thought of the V route and decided against it, just to hard to fill in and if the fill ever cracked it would start to destroy the finish, I am wanting an axe I can use every day, not a show peice to hang on the wall.
Super, The line and the plate are parallel, I made sure of that, I am that anal, I do not know if the pate will overlap it, but made sure they were parallel., as of now the lines go just over half way down the sides, I was going to die the back side and not sand it down, I like the look of the guitars that are done like that. My plans for the nails I am considering now if I should glue them in or depend on the friction of the nail, I do not want them to ever back out and ruin the finish
About the lines, As of now they are getting a 3 d look, when you knock down the stain they bleed out and free handing them they do not get exactly on the old line, I figure that the next time they knock down (look at the picks of the sanded before I reapplied) I will have a in between look of the finish, I will then take a felt pen, not a sharpy, but a narrow fine pen and do it again, I can always sand it down and apply a brown it it does dot go as planned
I am documenting this every step, what works and what does not will be here in pic form for others to learn from
I have seen a lot of builds since joining, going back and reviewing old threads, and seen stuff I like, seen some amazing paint jobs like the Spitfire one etc. I also have PMed guys to find out technique and stuff, It has been a study in finishing. I find our greatest asset we have here is sharing info, so I am trying to do just that, share info, Like that low tech drying stand, The uprights fit into the pickup holes. I work on the front while on a towel flip it and put it on the stand, work the sides and back, I have it on a table I sit next to and can spin it around without touching it. I am sure that when I get to the lacquer stage I will have to attach a stick like I see Tonar does, but as of now this gives me ability to spin the work and do as I please, but do not have to stop and wait for one side to dry. when working on the back the front is held up by the pickup routes so It is not affecting the drying die on that side.
 
Marko said:
btw, nothing works at all on that hembry... sorry... from the headstock shape to the finish and the hardware choice....

Hehe! I'm glad somebody else said it first! I thought maybe it was just me. But, you're right - it's like somebody went through their spare parts bins and just threw together whatever came to hand first.
 
the color I could not to get exposed right, it is a red
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am going let that sit till this afternoon and finish the back and sides
 
thanks, I need to do the back and sides then let it dry out a few days and do a grain sealer. after that I will start the lacquer and once I am satisfied with that I will order the body hardware
I have decided to have a black plate for the controls, a gold input jack and chrome bridge, like earlier mentioned I am going use Pad lock hasp rings for strap buttons. I have plans for a pick guard, but I am digging this finish so much it is getting hard to cover it up, I may just not use one, I have not ordered a neck yet either, the wood I use is totally dependent on how this finishes up, I am thinking bloodwood, but that depends on how red it already is, Plus the head stock, do I want traditional Tele, or a Warmoth design? You see, If I go Tele, then this is just a fender with a killer dye job, but if I go and do a Warmoth, then it is a plank of Barn Door and custom neck, Whatever it is, no inlays, I have decided that the raw look would be ruined with inlays.

I wonder, if anyone with the photoshop skills, could mock up a few pics of that body with different necks?
 
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