I have a cheap Strat copy (Stagg) with a 3-piece agathis body. It's one of the best sounding guitars I've ever played (although it required a lot of tweaking only to be satisfyingly playable, owing to a particularly poor fretwork and hardware).
Remmeber that alder and ash were chosen by Leo...
Raw Warmoth bodies are sanded down to 220, you could go up to 320 or 400 if you want but I don't think you need to.
Water will raise the fibers of the wood, so you'll need to sand after exposing the wood to it. That won't happen with alcohol.
Not sure about Minwax but I'm sure someone will...
Tinted lacquer, I guess. Given the fact that alder does not always takes stains uniformly (search for "alder blotchy stain"), it seems safer to shoot the alder body with a wash coat (to get a perfectly flat surface) then with tinted lacquer.
I was afraid that the first black dye would prevent you from doing something as vivid as the green PRS you showed initially, but the end result looks incredible. I love how three-dimensional the top looks — and the headstock is not shabby either. And that's from someone who's not usually fond of...
I am not sure that neck thickness alone is the answer you're looking for. With the variability of wood, I am sure that you could find a neck that sounds "fuller" than the one you've got while being the same thickness.
I did not check the tdpri thread but perhaps there was a flaw in the corner, knot or something else, that prompted the decision to not make a drop top ? In any case, that is a beautiful piece of wood.
I think people around here generally advise to get a 18" radius at the bridge on a guitar with a 10-16 radius on the neck. Since the ZR trem was mainly used on guitars with a 430 mm (17") radius, it is close enough that you should be able to use it un-shimmed and forget about it. I'd follow...
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