Yellow LPS

erogenousjones17

Senior member
Messages
1,709
I'm a little late starting this, since the guitar is now finished, but here are some pics from various stages of my first Warmoth build: a flat-top mahogany LPS with SD Phat Cats, Gotoh hardware, thin profile mahogany neck w/ rosewood fingerboard and Competition Yellow Corvette paint! This thing plays, sounds, and feels like a dream, despite it's occasional caprices. Plus, it's exactly what I wanted and building it was a ton of fun. Can't wait to build another!

Here's a test fit, after grain filling:
preview2.jpg


Here's the neck, after three coats of Minwax wipe-on Poly. Amazing stuff! It's super easy, and it feels great!
Varnishedneck.jpg


Primer grey...seriously considering this colour for another build...
DSCF0157.jpg


"Yep, it sure is yellow"
DSCF0163.jpg


Headstock
2009_0305extras0158.jpg


Finished neck
2009_0305extras0159.jpg


Fully finished body...orange peel, I know
2009_0305extras0157.jpg
 

rapfohl09

Senior member
Messages
1,673
It looks good! Not gonna lie I kind of like the peel, gives it a textured look, as long as it isnt sticky or something I would leave it!
 

erogenousjones17

Senior member
Messages
1,709
kboman said:
Way cool! I love non-smooth finishes  :icon_thumright:

I'm choosing to take that without sarcasm.  :laughing7: It was my first time painting with a serious body shop-caliber spray gun, after all!

I don't mind the peel really. It's barely even noticeable in "real life." But just the same, any tips on getting rid of that next time around? Buffing and polishing just didn't seem to help.
 

kboman

Senior member
Messages
2,378
erogenousjones17 said:
kboman said:
Way cool! I love non-smooth finishes  :icon_thumright:

I'm choosing to take that without sarcasm.  :laughing7: It was my first time painting with a serious body shop-caliber spray gun, after all!

I don't mind the peel really. It's barely even noticeable in "real life." But just the same, any tips on getting rid of that next time around? Buffing and polishing just didn't seem to help.

I was perfectly serious :)
 

hannaugh

Senior member
Messages
4,230
I really know nothing about finishes myself, but I think I read on Stewmac one time that if you put the cans or whatever is holding the paint in warm water for a while before you spray it, then you won't get that "peel" texture.  I guess if the paint is a little warmer, then it sprays a on little smoother.

Just what I read, not my personal advice.
 

nathan a

Senior member
Messages
1,836
Looks nice, those tv yellow finishes are a really pleasant kind of ugly (not sarcastic)

Plus the neck back looks WAY nice
 

big bob

Senior member
Messages
864
erogenousjones17 said:
kboman said:
Way cool! I love non-smooth finishes  :icon_thumright:

I'm choosing to take that without sarcasm.  :laughing7: It was my first time painting with a serious body shop-caliber spray gun, after all!

I don't mind the peel really. It's barely even noticeable in "real life." But just the same, any tips on getting rid of that next time around? Buffing and polishing just didn't seem to help.

sand it out. start with 400, then 800, then 1500, 2000. then buff with swirl remover.. you could still do it to your paint job if you choose.
 

erogenousjones17

Senior member
Messages
1,709
big bob said:
erogenousjones17 said:
kboman said:
Way cool! I love non-smooth finishes  :icon_thumright:

I'm choosing to take that without sarcasm.  :laughing7: It was my first time painting with a serious body shop-caliber spray gun, after all!

I don't mind the peel really. It's barely even noticeable in "real life." But just the same, any tips on getting rid of that next time around? Buffing and polishing just didn't seem to help.

sand it out. start with 400, then 800, then 1500, 2000. then buff with swirl remover.. you could still do it to your paint job if you choose.

Thanks! Good to know. I don't think I'll be doing it to this guitar any time soon, but maybe on my next project.
 

Patrick from Davis

Senior member
Messages
2,197
If you get peel while painting, let the coat dry and then level it with a block and 320.  The high grades of sandpaper don't really help at that point because you are going to add more texture with the next coat.  With nitro cellulose lacquer the high grades of sand paper help the polishing process go a bit faster, but after 400 you are not doing much that a rag and polishing compound won't do.  The anti swirl is a great last step to the luscious lacquer look.  Also, if you are spraying from a can, it takes a lot longer to get the solvents and accelerents out of the finish.  If you spray with a rig, then you have to modify the formula of the finish to your liking.  A lot of leveling agents just sort of retard the initial drying so that the paint can spread evenly before getting sticky.  That is an over simplification, but conceptually it is more or less what happens.  The levelers reduce the orange peel nicely, and cause drool marks fairly easily if the painted surface is not flat. 
Patrick

 

Alfang

Senior member
Messages
2,596
I don't like the peel look, maybe it looks good in person, I doubt I'd like it in person.  No offense but it looks like a first time paint job, looks like you tried to cover it in one coat.

You can get rid of that by sanding between coats or between every couple of coats, till you can sand it smooth without sanding through the paint, then buff the crap out of it and it will look good.

The people here who are saying they like it, are saying that because it's not theirs. If that was a cool paint job Tonar would be painting guitars like that too.

It can be fixed, I hope you didn't use enamel paint
 

dmraco

Senior member
Messages
4,651
regardless of the paint quality...seems to be a waste to cover up that fantastic mahogany!!!

Buff the hell out of that finish....make it look like glass.  Start with 800 grit and work your ay up to 2000 grit...then polish.

Don't ruin what is looking like a 1st class build with a 4th class paint job.  Orange peel sucks.  Sorry...just my 2 cents.
 

erogenousjones17

Senior member
Messages
1,709
dmraco said:
regardless of the paint quality...seems to be a waste to cover up that fantastic mahogany!!!

Buff the hell out of that finish....make it look like glass.  Start with 800 grit and work your ay up to 2000 grit...then polish.

Don't ruin what is looking like a 1st class build with a 4th class paint job.  Orange peel sucks.  Sorry...just my 2 cents.

You would not believe the flack I've gotten for covering the mahogany! Maybe at some time in the future I'll take the thing apart and sand/buff/polish, but for now I'm happy with it. Seriously, it's barely noticeable. Damn you, flash photography! Also, my inexperience just means I'll have to build more guitars, which can't be a bad thing.
 

dmraco

Senior member
Messages
4,651
You are correct that flashes show everything.  As long as you are happy that is all that matters.  Next time you want to paint you may want to look at alder or swamp ash and save a few bucks.  I think there are 2 lps in the deals section for under $150.
 

exalted

Senior member
Messages
723
No, the paint job isn't perfect, but this guitar has made me fall in love with LPS's.

I didn't even like them until seeing this. I guess the pick guard does it for me. I'm thinking maybe a white on black (or black on white) LPS is in my future.
 

Assumer

Senior member
Messages
206
Orange peel or not, the LPS style is killer.  I have one being painted as we speak.  Cannot wait.  Looking at yours makes waiting more difficult.
 

erogenousjones17

Senior member
Messages
1,709
exalted said:
No, the paint job isn't perfect, but this guitar has made me fall in love with LPS's.

I didn't even like them until seeing this. I guess the pick guard does it for me. I'm thinking maybe a white on black (or black on white) LPS is in my future.

That's great...LPS's for everyone!  :icon_biggrin:
Seriously, black and white would be killer either way. Go for it.
 
Top