Wraparound or...

Mugician

Active member
Messages
82
I really like the look/idea of the Gotoh 510 wraparound bridge, but can't find any reviews anywhere. I'm wondering if it would be a better idea to use a regular stop piece and tune-o-matic bridge...

Carve top, double cut LPS, P-90x2
 
Messages
8,318
I've thought about the PRS intonate-able wrap-around.  It's the same spacing and stud inserts as the Stop Bar on the TOM bridge, but offset like the TOM and in that place.  I've got a PRS tailpiece for a Warmoth Project that never came to fruition, and never bothered to ask if they could do that.
 

mayfly

Senior member
Messages
8,233
I've always liked the PRS wraparound as well - and always thought about using one in a project, but I just could not find one that was not attached to a guitar.

Where did you get yours?
 
Messages
8,318
I ordered it from Guitar Center about 8 years ago.  They ordered it from PRS.  PRS sent me the dimensions of the stud spacing.  About $70 if I remeber right.  It's the one with individual string intonation, not the solid one piece (which technically is partially intonateable).  The PRSs are a 25" scale.  I wasn't sure if it would work with a 24.75" or 25.5" scale, so I got the individual string intonation version.
 

dudesweet157

Senior member
Messages
647
I've got the 501 on my VIP, and it's great.  Easy to set up, easy to intonate, it has great sustain, and it looks good!  You just have to be careful when you take off the strings that it doesn't fall off its posts and scratch the face of your guitar.

Cheers,
Rose
 

stubhead

Senior member
Messages
4,669
I don't like the idea of two tiny allen screws transmitting the string vibrations to the body, but it's apparently good enough for a $10,000 Paul Reed Smith. Of course nasty bent-sheet-metal Kluson tuners are good enough for a $6,000 Gibson, but what do I know? :dontknow:
 

stubhead

Senior member
Messages
4,669
IF you end up using the allen-head screws to back the bridge up for intonation purposes - it may not be necessary, but on the PRS it's the only way to adjust it - the majority of the string pulling force is resting on maybe 2 square mm's of metal contact? Just the tips of those distance-adjusting screws. Of course the bridge is held somewhat stable by the flanges on the top and bottom of the bushings. It just doesn't seem like the strongest possible mechanical coupling, to me. Plenty of people buy 'em, and of course I haven't broken out the old Sustain-o-meter here to measure anything - that would violate the rules of guitar description. :toothy12:
 
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