Wolfgang-ish Build

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
So I've done several parts-caster Warmoth builds, and as a bridge to one day doing a full scratch build I am working on a project of pre-routed body blank and paddle neck from Warmoth.

It is largely based on the PV Wolfgang, with more contouring and a few changes to suit - including a probable faux pickguard for a more vintage/less of a ripoff look.

I will likely have a few questions for the members, but let me start with a photo flood of where we are now, and also ask if anyone sees any issues with my layout and prototypes before i cut into the real blank.

Alder blank:

file


Photo%20Sep%2019%202022%2C%205%2041%2017%20PM.jpg


Pine protoype:

Photo%20Sep%2027%202022%2C%206%2058%2022%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2027%202022%2C%206%2058%2030%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2027%202022%2C%207%2017%2048%20PM.jpg


Headstock mockup:

Photo%20Sep%2002%202022%2C%203%2028%2016%20PM.jpg


AAA Roasted neck:

Photo%20Sep%2028%202022%2C%205%2024%2026%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2028%202022%2C%205%2024%2032%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2028%202022%2C%205%2024%2041%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2028%202022%2C%205%2024%2049%20PM.jpg
 

ragamuffin

Senior member
Messages
913
Looking good! I was going to recommend to practice shaping a body/headstock but it looks like you've already done a good job of that.

The heel contour looks nice too!
 

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
Tks.

First question is regarding the photo above where the body is facedown with the neck. I would like to shape the heel end of the neck so the "shelf" from the F style rout matches better with the contoured heel. See any issues with that, or any advice on best way to accomplish it without pooching a rather expensive neck?
 

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
Looks great, I can’t tell how long the neck mounting tongue on the body is but if it is long enough then I think you’re good to go.
I'm basing it off of templates for the 'Wolf.

Also based on pictures like this, it looks about right. Thoughts? I will be using ferrules and inset bots as opposed to a plate.

peavey-wolfgang-special-exp-2372637.jpg
 

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
It also looks like i need to "straighten" the curve a bit on the treble side of the pocket...it overhangs the neck just a bit (see photo in first post)

I could also move the body forward a bit for more pocket, at the expense of access to upper frets. I think the original joins around the 16th/17th fret as ive done here.
 

bruzanhd

Senior member
Messages
134
1664483540550.jpeg
As long as the pocket meets the dimensions of this then I’d say you’re good. 3” long with screws far enough out to be stable.
 

bagman67

Senior member
Messages
8,246
I'd say the amount of the flat part of the heel that's exposed in this photo suggests maybe you could leave a little more wood than you have. But I may just be an alarmist. Well-torqued machine screws into threaded inserts would likely alleviate any tendency to lateral movement by the neck. But were it my project, I'd make the pocket just a little longer, and maybe shave the backside down.

But the thing I really find objectionable is the sharpie marker on the heel. 🤮 :)

Photo%20Sep%2027%202022%2C%207%2017%2048%20PM.jpg
 

stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,217
It looks good, but may I suggest a bolder move and suggest just re shaping the neck heel to flow to the body as it is. After all, you have drilling and shaping to do at the headstock end.

(The 4 + 2 headstocks I like, though it is protected by Music Man)
 

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
It looks good, but may I suggest a bolder move and suggest just re shaping the neck heel to flow to the body as it is. After all, you have drilling and shaping to do at the headstock end.

(The 4 + 2 headstocks I like, though it is protected by Music Man)
Can you elaborate a little? Do you mean leave the neck pocket be as is and reshape the neck itself? If so, thats what im planning as mentioned in an earlier thread - i want to carve the neck heel a little bit to mimic the shape of the contoured neck joint. Carefully....

Headstock: i didnt want a blatant ripoff of the Wolf headstock, but after close to ten prototypes the 4+2 thing looks best with the shaoe and size i want. In my mind i morphed it bt the EBMM and the Wolf
 

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
I'd say the amount of the flat part of the heel that's exposed in this photo suggests maybe you could leave a little more wood than you have. But I may just be an alarmist. Well-torqued machine screws into threaded inserts would likely alleviate any tendency to lateral movement by the neck. But were it my project, I'd make the pocket just a little longer, and maybe shave the backside down.

But the thing I really find objectionable is the sharpie marker on the heel. 🤮 :)
I have just right at 3" - i slid the template around and could get another 3/16" or so before things get weird - and that would put the body joint right at the 16th fret as is factory....

The sharpie will go bye bye when i shape the heel....
 

stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,217
Can you elaborate a little? Do you mean leave the neck pocket be as is and reshape the neck itself?
Yes.

Headstock: i didnt want a blatant ripoff of the Wolf headstock, but after close to ten prototypes the 4+2 thing looks best with the shaoe and size i want. In my mind i morphed it bt the EBMM and the Wolf

It looks good to me, though, as you are not marketing it you may be okay. Though this is not legal advice one way or the other. Caveat emptor etc / YMMV and so on...at your risk etc :cool:

For those interested...

 

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
It looks good, but may I suggest a bolder move and suggest just re shaping the neck heel to flow to the body as it is. After all, you have drilling and shaping to do at the headstock end.
What would your approach be to carving up that roasted maple a bit?

I'm doing the body contours with a flap wheel, but that seems a bit aggressive here. Maybe just use files and clean up with sandpaper?
 

bagman67

Senior member
Messages
8,246
Yep, that last one: Files and sandpaper are your friends. Maybe sandpaper alone, if you feel up to putting in the elbowgrease.
 

stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,217
Maybe just use files and clean up with sandpaper?

Yes, just handheld, fine rasp, files and sandpaper from coarser to finer grits. Better to err on the side of caution and go slow if you need to get a feel for the tools, practice on some scrap.

Pencil in the shape, mask off if needed and use good light.
 

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
Did some shaping today:

Photo%20Sep%2030%202022%2C%206%2023%2005%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2030%202022%2C%206%2023%2010%20PM.jpg


Took the opportunity to straighten the neck flange where it runs along the butt of the neck.

By moving the neck pocket a bit deeper, I encroached on my rear access panel a bit - will have to test but i may have to use a less exxagerated roundover than the prototype:

Photo%20Sep%2030%202022%2C%206%2023%2028%20PM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2030%202022%2C%206%2024%2051%20PM.jpg


Next session I'll roundover, contour the tummy and arm cuts, then on to veneer top...
 
Last edited:

Swinguitar

New member
Messages
21
Contouring done:


84F0EA6C-6FE7-43B6-B0B3-539C733643B5.jpeg

C13486D6-60AE-4F6D-9B7A-C99CAE496559.jpeg




Question for the think tank - given this veneer:

E0BA1764-2B02-4512-BDD6-28F6376B9A4D.jpeg

How do we feel about using it as a one piece over the whole top, vs maybe cutting and slipping it to create a more bookmatched illusion?

Also, I will be treating it with a solution for flattening and flexibility - how far over the rounded edge should i reasonable try to get it to bend?
 

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stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,217
I would leave it in one piece. Hopefully it is possible to bend across the whole of the contour.
 
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