Who here has made their own guitar from a body blank?

[Patriot54]

Aussie Pete already linked to the RD-ish build I did last year - there's also my current thinline Firebird build up in the Work In Progress field.  Sadly, I have an update w/pics for that (will get them up tonight) which underscores the difficulty of using a router - project's not ruined, but I did make a huge mistake.

I'd say that you'd definitely be better off using a bandsaw, but a jigsaw works just as well - IF - you're: A) prepared to deal with the saw-rash on the sides (a spindle sander or sanding drum in a power drill or drill press works for that) and B) you change the blades/start with a new blade.  A friend pointed out to me that even on a flat work surface with a flat piece of wood, the up & down action of the saw can cause the blade to bow to one side or the other (as opposed to the one direction of the bandsaw).  If you cut the whole body with one blade, it's possible that you won't end up with a perpendicular cut.   I found out both of the above the hard way, but only to a small extent - sandpaper cures a number of ills.  :laughing7:

BUT!  - Patriot54: YOU HAZ TEH SKILLZ 4 THIS!  Seriously, you can do it - it's not impossible or difficult by any stretch. Do it, and even if it's less than perfect, we won't know, and we'll still respect you forever for the Tat-Strat. :icon_thumright:

Thanks - I'll be limited to basic hand power tools for this project, but there's a lot of good info here for when I get more advanced.

 

[mgaut051]

I love using my router for as much work as possible. It's accurate, controllable and very versatile. With a bandsaw, a drill press, a drill and a router I can do all the work involved in making a body - even jointing and planing.
When making my padouk tele, I also used a 1/2" collet 2" flush trim bit - and it worked wonders. Bring it as close as you dare to the line with the bandsaw, manually remove any gross excess (like in the cutaway). If your router table has the HP, a sharp bit, and you've got less than 1/4 of your bit diameter beyond the line - you're laughing.

Sure routers have more potential for serious damage than say a jigsaw, but use your tool with a healthy respect for what it can and can't do and you're set.

 

[pabloman]

What's the best way to use a router for joining and plaining. I have a big chunk of wenge that has a smokin guitar hiding in it.

 

[line6man]

What's the best way to use a router for joining and plaining. I have a big chunk of wenge that has a smokin guitar hiding in it.

Set up a jig.
I've been meaning to do so myself.

 

[Cagey]

What's the best way to use a router for joining and plaining [?]

Use it as a conversation starter with somebody who owns a jointer and/or a planer. You'll both be richer for the experience.

 

[baskruit]

for bodies I do by hand, I currently router my final pass the full 1-3/4" depth of the body. I'm using a template securely attached to the body, and it trims away the excess wood remaining after I've carefully cut out the shape at a bandsaw (note: if I used a jig saw I would need to leave more material to ensure that the blade didn't bend or drift inside the body thickness)

I also use one of these specialy 1/2" shank 2" long flush trim bits in a router with enough horsepower to support the cut without bogging down

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2081629/Freud-Downshear-Flush-Trim-Bits.aspx

the slight spiral shape to the cutting edge produces paper thin whisps of the waste wood while also eliminating chatter. I definitely wouldn't recommend this bit for a novice router user. Based on personal experience with what can instantly go wrong using such a large bit on a router table, I'd recommend this be used in a hand-held router base when working the cleanup on a body - there's just too many places where bad things can go into overdrive unless you're really achieved in your ability to transition between regular and climb style cuts

all the best,

R

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