Warmoth Name Plate

[DangerousR6]

Some more headstock logos...

Speechless.    Nice work Doug

Thanks Dave... :headbang:

 

[dmraco]

I am going to experiment a bit.
1.  I am going to "age" on of the brass ones
2. I am going to paint one of the steel ones and then sand it off, leaving paint only in the letters.  I think this would be a cool touch especially if it matches the color of the guitar.

 

[Cagey]

2. I am going to paint one of the steel ones and then sand it off, leaving paint only in the letters.  I think this would be a cool touch especially if it matches the color of the guitar.

I like that idea a lot.

 

[ghotiphry]

2. I am going to paint one of the steel ones and then sand it off, leaving paint only in the letters.  I think this would be a cool touch especially if it matches the color of the guitar.

I like that idea a lot.

I tried that on an aluminum one.  The aluminum was softer that the paint. Made a complete mess of it.

 

[DangerousR6]

2. I am going to paint one of the steel ones and then sand it off, leaving paint only in the letters.  I think this would be a cool touch especially if it matches the color of the guitar.

I like that idea a lot.

I tried that on an aluminum one.  The aluminum was softer that the paint. Made a complete mess of it.

Yes, aluminum is tricky to work with when doing something like that.

 

[Cagey]

I used to work with a company that did that sort of painting. What they did was create these tricky little masks out of brass and wire, so they only painted what was supposed to have paint on it. Didn't require any post-processing.

 

[DangerousR6]

I used to work with a company that did that sort of painting. What they did was create these tricky little masks out of brass and wire, so they only painted what was supposed to have paint on it. Didn't require any post-processing.

There's a number of ways to mask off the letters, from tape to liquid mask, if you're good with an exacto knife...

 

[Cagey]

Right. But I'm talking about automated systems where the mask was re-used repeatedly over an extended period of time for production run quantities. Things like phone housings, automotive dash components, instrument/gauge facings, etc. Stuff you might want to silk screen, but needing higher production speeds/quantities than that process would tolerate.

 

[ghotiphry]

Some more headstock logos...

So the bottom 3 are brass?  What material are the top 2?

 

[DangerousR6]

Right. But I'm talking about automated systems where the mask was re-used repeatedly over an extended period of time for production run quantities. Things like phone housings, automotive dash components, instrument/gauge facings, etc. Stuff you might want to silk screen, but needing higher production speeds/quantities than that process would tolerate.

Oh, yes, I've seen these types of masks. We had some similar types of apparatuses in the previous industry I was in.

 

[DangerousR6]

Some more headstock logos...

So the bottom 3 are brass?  What material are the top 2?

steel...

 

[BigSteve22]

Don't know it this applies here, but I've done something similar with engraved badges. Years ago my department was plagued with a batch of badges on which the wallet clip would break off at the weld. Upon braising the clip back on, the paint in the engraving on the front of the badge would discolor and flake off. (The gold finish plating would flake off too, but that's another story...)

What I did with mine was fill the engraving with an enamel paint, (Testor's model paint), let it dry for an hour or two, then wipe the surface with a cotton cloth just dampened with denatured alcohol. After completely drying overnight, I could polish it with a terry cloth and remove any stray enamel. Because the paint in the engraving was below the surface, it was unaffected.

I know the engraving on your plate is larger than the engraving on a badge, but maybe if you used the solvent on a folded paper towel held against a flat surface, you could clean the raised surface without effecting the recessed areas. Just a thought.

 

[dmraco]

we could certainly try that.  Let me see how big the letters actually are. 

 

[ghotiphry]

Anyone who paints the inside of the letters and gets a good result, please post and let me know how it was done?

 

[Cagey]

I think the trick to painting metal is a highly aggressive solvent wash, then a primer, then the color coat, then the clear. Almost any kind of metal working involves lubricants, and it's imperative they be removed or no finish will stick for long. The primer does a bit of etching as well as provide a uniform coating that's receptive to paint, then the color/clear coats are to make it pretty.

If you go through all that, you should be able to do what you wanted to originally - just sand back the high pionts to leave the painted background.

 

[DangerousR6]

I think the trick to painting metal is a highly aggressive solvent wash, then a primer, then the color coat, then the clear. Almost any kind of metal working involves lubricants, and it's imperative they be removed or no finish will stick for long. The primer does a bit of etching as well as provide a uniform coating that's receptive to paint, then the color/clear coats are to make it pretty.

If you go through all that, you should be able to do what you wanted to originally - just sand back the high pionts to leave the painted background.

Exactly, usually acetone will pretty much remove any lubricants left.

But also a point that Hans didn't mention was one of the tags was polished, I think that was his main issue. Which any sort of filler should probably be added and finished prior to polishing...  :glasses9:

 

[dmraco]

I should have mine soon.    Time to experiment.

 

[lightsoundgeometry]

I would like that on the back , i prefer the classic waterslide style on front or nothing at all.

 

[DangerousR6]

Did some playing around...

:icon_biggrin:

 

[Axkoa]

Now can you make a rainbow one with built in sparkles and tuner?

Preferably out of one piece African Mahogany.

For that tone.  :headbang1: