Warmoth-instaled Tusq nut vs luthier-made bone nut

ragamuffin

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Hey guys, so up until now I've always gone with a Warmoth-installed Tusq nut, and always took it to a tech to do the final adjustment. However, I'm wondering if it wouldn't make more sense to order my neck without a nut and have a good local luthier install a bone nut for me. Part of this is because I find myself wanting a cream-ish/off-white nut and not the bright white of Tusq. My Tusq nuts on older necks have aged to a creamy color, but that takes a while. I do wish that Warmoth would offer the aged white cream Tusq nuts which are readily available.

Any thoughts?
 
Hey guys, so up until now I've always gone with a Warmoth-installed Tusq nut, and always took it to a tech to do the final adjustment. However, I'm wondering if it wouldn't make more sense to order my neck without a nut and have a good local luthier install a bone nut for me. Part of this is because I find myself wanting a cream-ish/off-white nut and not the bright white of Tusq. My Tusq nuts on older necks have aged to a creamy color, but that takes a while. I do wish that Warmoth would offer the aged white cream Tusq nuts which are readily available.

Any thoughts?
I bet you could do a nut yourself even. I say go for bone. I have adjusted all my Warmoth nuts to where I like em and installed a couple myself too. You can do it!!
 
I bet you could do a nut yourself even. I say go for bone. I have adjusted all my Warmoth nuts to where I like em and installed a couple myself too. You can do it!!
Thanks Spud, do you have a set of nut files? Or what do you use?
 
I have a set of files and have cut my own bone nuts. But it always takes me 3-4 blanks to get one I'm satisfied with. It's the thing I'm worst at on builds. Cutting you own Tusq nut is easier, it's a much more consistent, predictable material.

Much easier to pay for someone to cut a new nut during a full setup.
 
Thanks Spud, do you have a set of nut files? Or what do you use?
I should be more clear, the nuts I have replaced recently, and over the years, have all been aftermarket "pre slotted" and I have used abrasive cord, needle files, snap off olfa knives, sandpaper,and even guitar strings (some or all of these) to adjust them lower to my liking. Almost always they are cut way high. I refuse to buy nut files, but that would sure be an easy way to go. Warmoth nuts are pretty good, but in my experience can benefit from at least a bit of adjustment depending on how you like the action to be (aka lower) if you fudge up, super glue slurry, and go again. If there is a will and patience there is a way. Disclaimer, I have ruined a few, but nuts are cheap. I will say I probably would not try and do a complete blank with my nutty method. However, even that is doable by comparing to a nut you already have.
Keep in mind this is the rambling of a Spud.
 
Warmoth's 'white' TUSQ XL is actually kind of an off-white. The white corian is bright white. Here are a pair of photos of a white corian nut blank next to a couple white TUSQ XL nut blanks for comparison, one on a sheet of plain white printer paper, and the other on this red folder thing I keep on my table. I tried a pic of them on my black mousepad, but my phone wasn't able to capture the color differences quite as well in that scenario.
 

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Have you ever used the ervana, of course thats not bone, but they are already setup and you don't need files, however you are probably going to be building more guitars so buying the files have merit
 
I've used preslotted TUSQ nuts in my Warmoth necks, and I've never tinkered with the slots themselves. I use one piece of 400 grit sandpaper, first to slim the width of the nut to fit into the slot, and then on the bottom to bring it down to the right height. The slots are cut very nicely, why mess with those? Just take some material off the bottom by rubbing the whole nut across the sandpaper on a flat surface. Go slowly, check frequently, and in 10-15 min you can have a perfect TUSQ nut! Oh, and I forgot that once done I sand the rough edges off all four top corners of the nut. They're surprisingly angular, but easy to round off by hand.
 
I've used preslotted TUSQ nuts in my Warmoth necks, and I've never tinkered with the slots themselves. I use one piece of 400 grit sandpaper, first to slim the width of the nut to fit into the slot, and then on the bottom to bring it down to the right height. The slots are cut very nicely, why mess with those? Just take some material off the bottom by rubbing the whole nut across the sandpaper on a flat surface. Go slowly, check frequently, and in 10-15 min you can have a perfect TUSQ nut! Oh, and I forgot that once done I sand the rough edges off all four top corners of the nut. They're surprisingly angular, but easy to round off by hand.
Huh, very interesting!
 
I have even abraded strings with sandpaper to slowly work back and forth to get the right height.
 
Get the Warmoth installed. Even though I've carved nuts from dead scratch nut blanks, It's too time consuming. The Warmoth nut will come with the nuts slotted just slightly on the high side to accommodate user preferences, so with minimal after installment filing, it's right in the money. I'd much rather do it this way than shape the whole thing from scratch. Saves so much time, and most of the work is already done for you.
 
Have you ever used the ervana, of course thats not bone, but they are already setup and you don't need files, however you are probably going to be building more guitars so buying the files have merit

Yes, I have used Earvana nuts. But whilst they are set up for intonation length wise, and height wise are usable they can still benefit from dialling in the slot height, which does require files and the skill to use them. This is especially so if you also dial in the frets in terms of level, crown and polish.
 
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