WalNUTS! '54 Bass (Warning No Warmoth Content)

[amigarobbo]

The DeeeKKAL is on. I shall give start slapping on the Tru-oil on the headstock face tomorrow.

I've also decided to go for these, old skool looking but small Gotoh GB10s

I think they'll fit, or I can make 'em fit anyway.  :evil4:

 

[BigSteve22]

I didn't know Tru-oil would bury a decal. Did you check with R&F regarding compatibility?

 

[amigarobbo]

Don't care, I'm doing things my way, You don't know what it's like. I'm the one out there putting his ass on the line. And I'm not out of order. You're out of order! The whole freakin' system is out of order. You want the truth? You want the truth? You can't handle the truth! 'Cause when you reach over and put your hand into a pile of goo that was your best friend's face, you'll know what to do! Forget it! It's Chinatown!”

I think they say bad things about it. But I'm doing it anyway.

 

[bagman67]

A lot of the bad things, if they do indeed exist, will be obviated if you give the face of that peghead a quick coat of shellac.  It's pretty much the universal interface barrier.  Compatible with most anything.

 

[amigarobbo]

Just tried it.

Didn't work. Took the writing off.

Back to the cheaper eBay stuff that works.

And unlike the expensive Rothko and Frost stuff they don't have the flaws in the printing, (the line in the W and top of the L) that was visible from the time i'd opened the envelope.

I'd have overlooked that, but now...

 

[amigarobbo]

Here's one I made earlier, my first build, a Syd Barrett inspired Esquire sort of thing, no Warmoth content on that one either.

Those water slide decals are still good, buried deep under lots of Tru-oil layers.

To be fair I was warned,

http://www.rkfst.co.uk/content/pdf/rf_waterslide_decal_instructions.pdf

Hiding that information at the top, nobody ever reads up there!

 

[BigSteve22]

I think they say bad things about it. But I'm doing it anyway.

Elwood: It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses.
Jake: Hit it!

As for the line through the "W", I've noticed that before, but only in their metallic silver ink. Usually isn't noticeable, but once you do, you can't un-see it!

 

[TBurst Std]

Here's one I made earlier, my first build, a Syd Barrett inspired Esquire sort of thing, no Warmoth content on that one either.

Those water slide decals are still good, buried deep under lots of Tru-oil layers.

To be fair I was warned,

http://www.rkfst.co.uk/content/pdf/rf_waterslide_decal_instructions.pdf

Hiding that information at the top, nobody ever reads up there!

Tell us more about the Sydcaster.  Trusting it has reflectors. 

 

[amigarobbo]

Alas, no. It did start out with that intention, but it didn't get there. Which in many ways is a more fitting tribute.  :turtle: <- Terrapin

Pickup is a Don Mare 3 way strangray with the pickup selector picking the different taps.

 

[amigarobbo]

Slow pre-Crimble trans Atlantic post making progress even more glacial,

I think one more coat of tru-oil on the body, maybe two or three if I get bored. but the genuine made in USA (  :confused4: ) Fender control plate is here!

And after the Rothko and Frost decal débacle I'm taking no chances!

 

[amigarobbo]

Houston We haz a problem!

Well, not really, but interestingly*, I bought what were sold as a "Fender 2-Saddle Squier Vintage Modified Tele Precision Bass" ie Squier Vintage modified and it looks like this:

I've since noticed that you can get a Fender telecaster bass bridge,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Fender-2-saddle-SCPB-51-P-70s-Telecaster-Bass-Bridge-Plate-009-6198-000/222731052348

That looks like this:

compared to the Squire Vintage modified plate

Notice that the position of the two outer securing screw holes, and the size of the intonation screw holes.

On my bass body, the starting holes for the screws are for the Fender width, and if I want to use those big beefy saddles it'd better with that one as well.

Or shall I just stick with the Squier vintage modified ones?

I just love standards, there are so many of them!

*not really.  :toothy11:


EDITED TO ADD: This means if you get the Warmoth Badass Bass III string through bridge cutout that won't work with the cheap two saddle Squier bridges unless you recut two of the screw holes.  :sad1:

 

[rgand]

It looks like they re-designed the plate somewhat so assembly can be done without removing the saddles on the Squier bridge. I don't know how much difference it makes on dense wood like walnut, but those outer mounting holes on the Squier plate look rather close to the outside string holes. It may depend on how big the mounting screws are. Also if you want to use the real Fender saddles, you'll probably need to enlarge the hole for the intonation screws on the Squier. If I were faced with that choice, I'd be tempted to get the Fender bridge.

 

[BigSteve22]

...If I were faced with that choice, I'd be tempted to get the Fender bridge.

Another suggestion might be to get the Fender plate, that looks like a better fit for your body, and use whatever saddles float your boat. I'm sure you could come up with something to compensate for the larger intonation screw holes in the Fender plate.

 

[amigarobbo]

I've had a think about this, and I was going to set it up with the SVM bridge, but only put the middle screw in, the string tension should keep it place, set it all up, then maybe get a Fender bass plate and those fancy monster saddles in the new year. But I managed to find a place to the Fender sadles cheapish, http://www.hadpstore.top/bridges-c-348_647_1116_1117_4245/0096198000-genuine-fender-03951-amp-03970s-ptele-bass-bridge-plate-nip-p-8973.aspx

Maybe it'll work out, maybe they'll be cheapo Chinese knockoff nonsense, we shall see.


Edited to add, I had the brilliant idea of ordering two, so it would be free postage,

  then I remembered that I'd probably have to pay import duty on them, :doh:

 

[amigarobbo]

Slight update

I've finished with the finish. Or rather I can't see any point putting on anymore Tru-oil on.

Tuner fitted, Had to ream out the back of the holes a little, hack hack!

The web site I ordered the string Ferrules off seems to have disappeared, more than a little disconcerting, I've emailed them, but I'm not expecting a reply, I also bought using a debit, not credit or paypal card. B*gger. I think they're just a conduit to the actual people, in this case "PES*OTOSHOP, QUANZHOU" I've got a tracking number for Hermes and they're still awaiting the item, hope springs eternal and all that.  :sad:

I've thought of a suitable bodge for not having string ferrules so that the ball ends don't dig into and damage the wood,  :-\ it'll need a nut cut, a little beyond me, so I'll pay someone to put a bone nut in, and they can also put in bolt inserts in to the neck, that won't be till next year, but it's getting there. Slowly.

The walnut also looks warmer and redder than the pictures

 

[amigarobbo]

There is also the quesion of the pickguard, I was thinking of

1: black Bakelite one
2: cream pearl
3: None.

Traditional shape of the pickguard:

or maybe split the difference and go for:

:icon_scratch:

 

[Logrinn]

I vote none. :icon_thumright:

 

[bagman67]

If you must have one, I 'd go with the Cabronita-like half-guard in Bakelite or plain black plastic.  The wood's too pretty to cover up with the old-style P-bass guard.

 

[rgand]

For my tastes, the large expanse needs a little something to accent that fine wood. Chrome pickup and bridge covers would do that for it nicely but would they inhibit the tonal qualities? Ian is right that if you go for a guard, a black half-guard would be the best option.

 

[amigarobbo]

I must admit that half guard is growing on me,

http://www.42ndstreetguitars.co.uk/guitarsDetail.php?P51-half-guard-Bass-13    :icon_thumright: