AirCap said:
...Seriously, looked at a Les Paul lately? Your bridge height is nothing to worry about, UNLESS it plays badly.....
I think your set up look fine. As Aircap points out, Les Pauls all have high set bridges. In fact, nearly all carved/arched top guitars, with an angled neck pocket, do. It's necessary because the center of the bridge, even one with a curved bottom, would be touching the guitar top way before the the action was set to what most would consider an acceptable height. The neck angles the strings up and away from the guitar top, so the bridge can be set higher, allowing extra clearance. Keep in mind that the saddle radius still needs to closely match the fretboard radius, regardless of the shape of the guitar top, the higher set allows for the bridge to compensate for this transition.
Now, add to that the design on the Gotoh 510 bridge. Unlike the LP's TOM, it's a wrap around, with the strings feeding through the top, and out the bottom. If the bridge was set too close to the body, you would either have to dismount the bridge to change strings, or chance scratching the hell out of your top every time you did.
On my "CasinoCaster" build, I actually added a .5 degree shim to the neck pocket to
increase the angle. Doing so allowed me to set the bridge high enough to allow the strings to pass through the bottom, while still achieving the low action, (~.040" at the 12th fret), I prefer. Take a look at this:
Although the low "E" string sits approx. 21/32", (.656"), above the guitar's top, the bottom of the bridge is still only about 1/4", (.250"), above it. With the relief set to ~.008", this guitar is very comfortable to play, and the P90's have enough available height adjustment to bring them to the proper distance from the strings.