I think I may want to move my strap hook a teeny bit. Is there a way I can hide the existing screw hole? It doesn't have to be perfect. I'm not going to try to match the color and paint over it. But if I could get the hole filled somehow even if it leaves a dot of a different color, that would be fine.
Undoing a Hole
- Thread starter jtroska
- Start date
nah... not putty...
Get a small bit of hardwood dowel (cheap, Home Depot)
Put that in the hole with wood glue. Before doing so... trim the end nice and square, and make sure it is a bit shorter than the hole. In it goes, such that the squarely cut end is "just below" the top of the finish. Then you can drop fill the finish back to grade, level it, and buff it out.
Get a small bit of hardwood dowel (cheap, Home Depot)
Put that in the hole with wood glue. Before doing so... trim the end nice and square, and make sure it is a bit shorter than the hole. In it goes, such that the squarely cut end is "just below" the top of the finish. Then you can drop fill the finish back to grade, level it, and buff it out.
Rickgrxbass
Senior Member
- Messages
- 409
T.L. said:
If I am to believe Billy Mays (although he's never lied to me before), that would be appropriate for attaching the button without a screw...
I moved that strap hook even before filling the old hole. It was twisting my back in the old position. Just moving it a few millimeters made a world of difference because a small angle degree difference at the body pivot point makes a significant pitch difference at the other end of the neck. Now it hangs just right.
I'll try to fill the old hole. Nobody is likely to see it because it's behind the strap. But *I* know it's there.
I'll try to fill the old hole. Nobody is likely to see it because it's behind the strap. But *I* know it's there.
You're gonna reposition the forward strap lug?
Whats the color of the back... is that natural or is it brown?
For "clear" go get a brand new LIQUID super glue in the clear container at home depot. DONT USE A TUBE.
MASK the area all around the hole. Basically make a little cut out in some tape and palce the hole over the hole in the guitar - mask a good 2 inches or so or more if you tend to be sloppy. You dont want the super glue getting on things!
Then, and only then, open the bottle of super glue, make a drop on the toothpick and "drop fill" into the hole... the has the plug a little below flush. You'll need to do a few drops - let each one dry first. As it dries it shrinks. Dont worry about using more drops. Just let it build. Do this in a rather low humidity place please.... so you lessen it "clouding"
NOTE - super glue dries by water vapor getting into it. If its too humid it will cloud, and if the bottle sits open it will absorb moisture. Having a helper open and close (seal) the bottle between drop fills is a great plus.
Anyway .. drop fill it (practice first?). Let it dry a day. Go back and evaluate it and make sure the finish is built up. It should now be higher than the surrounding finish, with a little dimple in the middle. Make sure the dimple is not too deep. If it is, just drop fill a few more times.
Once its filled, and has dried a day, then you can level it. To do that - get some 600 grit wet dry paper and use it wet. Get a rubber block eraser (those big pink ones) and wrap the paper onto it, and use that for a mini sanding block (the masking on the guitar is removed now). Level the place where the drop fill was.
Once its level, get some auto rubbing compound (I use turtle wax white compound... it works really well). Put some on a rag and have at it with your finger tip in the rag. In about 30 seconds you'll have a mirror finish where the sanding was.
Dont go nuts on the sanding. If a crater is still seen, apply another drop, dont try to sand it out. And ALWAYS use a small sanding block, NEVER your finger or you'll end up with a mess and a ripply uneven repair. You use the block and it will be perfectly blended. Keep reusing the same sandpaper, as it will clog, and become finer, leaving fewer and finer "scratches" to be buffed out.
And.. try some colored markers on the tip of the dowel piece. You can even get some alcohol in a plastic spoon and soak the marker in the spoonful of it. That will make a bit of a "dilute" dye if you need it. Brown markers (sharpies) at office max, staples, etc
Easy peasy to get 95 percent of a real "pro" job that way.
Whats the color of the back... is that natural or is it brown?
For "clear" go get a brand new LIQUID super glue in the clear container at home depot. DONT USE A TUBE.
MASK the area all around the hole. Basically make a little cut out in some tape and palce the hole over the hole in the guitar - mask a good 2 inches or so or more if you tend to be sloppy. You dont want the super glue getting on things!
Then, and only then, open the bottle of super glue, make a drop on the toothpick and "drop fill" into the hole... the has the plug a little below flush. You'll need to do a few drops - let each one dry first. As it dries it shrinks. Dont worry about using more drops. Just let it build. Do this in a rather low humidity place please.... so you lessen it "clouding"
NOTE - super glue dries by water vapor getting into it. If its too humid it will cloud, and if the bottle sits open it will absorb moisture. Having a helper open and close (seal) the bottle between drop fills is a great plus.
Anyway .. drop fill it (practice first?). Let it dry a day. Go back and evaluate it and make sure the finish is built up. It should now be higher than the surrounding finish, with a little dimple in the middle. Make sure the dimple is not too deep. If it is, just drop fill a few more times.
Once its filled, and has dried a day, then you can level it. To do that - get some 600 grit wet dry paper and use it wet. Get a rubber block eraser (those big pink ones) and wrap the paper onto it, and use that for a mini sanding block (the masking on the guitar is removed now). Level the place where the drop fill was.
Once its level, get some auto rubbing compound (I use turtle wax white compound... it works really well). Put some on a rag and have at it with your finger tip in the rag. In about 30 seconds you'll have a mirror finish where the sanding was.
Dont go nuts on the sanding. If a crater is still seen, apply another drop, dont try to sand it out. And ALWAYS use a small sanding block, NEVER your finger or you'll end up with a mess and a ripply uneven repair. You use the block and it will be perfectly blended. Keep reusing the same sandpaper, as it will clog, and become finer, leaving fewer and finer "scratches" to be buffed out.
And.. try some colored markers on the tip of the dowel piece. You can even get some alcohol in a plastic spoon and soak the marker in the spoonful of it. That will make a bit of a "dilute" dye if you need it. Brown markers (sharpies) at office max, staples, etc
Easy peasy to get 95 percent of a real "pro" job that way.
