Tru-Oil: Sealer and Wax - Yes or No?

With finishing one needs to adapt a zen like approach to it. How will you know, you will know when you know.

Listen to the sound of the tone wood in the forest falling when no one is there to hear it. What sound does it make?

 
Take care with that Romulan Ale, Spock..........................Build long and prosper, Sir.
 
My problem is usually letting it sit for months between steps that don't matter. Like the half finished but sitting on my kids Tele.
 
Hi all, sorry for coming back to this. Any recommendation on what type of cloth to use to wipe on the Tru Oil? Will an old t-shirt do?
 
The older the better (lint is gone after a few hundred washes). But don't do like I did and cut up an old stained t-shirt that looked like one of mine but actually belonged to my wife's late step dad.

I just hope she feels the way about my old fire department shirts some day.
 
Hand rubbed finishes should be rubbed with the hand. Oil is good for you (probably not but a little won't kill you). Nitrile gloves are acceptable and they do give you a sort of squeegee effect.  I like to trade bodily fluids with my projects though.

Remember: A little TO goes a long ways, we measure in drops. 
 
Wait, so if i get it right, you guys are talking about the index finger with no glove on? If yes, I'm in.
 
I used to use my index finger with tru-oil and back in the day poly on split-cane fly rods. But now I tend to use some sort of material to apply it with as I don't like the feel of it on my skin any longer and it may be harmful. Bear that in mind.
 
stratamania said:
I used to use my index finger with tru-oil and back in the day poly on split-cane fly rods. But now I tend to use some sort of material to apply it with as I don't like the feel of it on my skin any longer and it may be harmful. Bear that in mind.

I think i'll just be going for coffee filters. Sounds appealing
 
alexreinhold said:
Wait, so if i get it right, you guys are talking about the index finger with no glove on? If yes, I'm in.

If you intend to play rude music on the guitar I suggest the big finger.
 
alexreinhold said:
Alrighty, golden advice everyone. Here's what I'll do

- 2 coats of BC's Sealer
- ~10 thin coats of Tru-Oil - applying all the suggested sanding/waiting

/let cure for a month/

Either keep as is or use swirl remover (i still got some at home) or BC's Stock Sheen Conditioner.

Sounds about right?

Sorry to bump up again. Wood arrived today and I need to start :headbang: Two questions though:

1. Do I treat sealer coats just like Tru Oil coats? I.e. light coat, light sanding in between and 12-24 hour wait?
2. What's the best position to apply and let it dry - lying flat on the table and simply turning when one side is done or hanging (like you do when spraying)?

 
1. The sealer and filler is thicker so you will need to apply it so it covers the area. Go by feel. Give it 24 hours in between to be on the safe side. A light sand with 4 - 600 grit is probably enough.

2. Either method will work.
 
Can you use regular tru oil and sandpaper to create a slurry to fill the pores?

Michael
 
Michaelga said:
Can you use regular tru oil and sandpaper to create a slurry to fill the pores?

Michael

That is a method that some use. I personally think a downside with that method is if you have an already sanded surface then to create a slurry basically means sanding an already good surface with oil to create what is a filler.
 
Quick question. I'm starting to oil the body today. However, I also ordered a roasted maple neck with a black korina veneer (see picture). Would the veneer need an oiling as well or can I leave it as is? It already looks pretty but I don't know if it needs protection.
 

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